I've been dealing with evo's for a few years now and know a lot on the mechanical side of things but I've decided to get into the majestic tuning side. Here's a quick background on what's going on... When I built the motor I had it dyno tuned up in GA and it made good numbers and ran great. Well due to some personal matters I let a friend hold onto the car and make payments on it for 5 months or so. Well while he had it he swapped out the 880cc injectors and 255 for a double pumper and 1200s for e85 and had it tuned by a reputable company. Well when it was time to get the car back he put the 880s and single walbro back in and flashed the old tune back on. However since getting it back it runs extremely rich and breaks up under heavy load. Idle is good around 14.5-14.9 but cruising is around 11.3-11.7 and wot hits 10.0. After finally getting a tactrix cable and everything set up this is what my fuel map and ignition timing look like.



Like I said I'm still new to this but it seems my ignition timing is pretty good but my fuel map looks to be in need of some help... Mods are 80mm red, comp 280's, 880cc injectors, walbro 255, and wiseco/eagle bottom end bored .020 over and converted to SD. I think that's all the relevant information needed. Thoughts?

 

You may need to check your injector scaling value. If it's running way richer than your fuel map says it should, then I would check either that or the MAF scaling, but since your friend changed the injectors, check there first.

Also, your fuel and ignition maps need quite a bit of work. They're supposed to be as smooth as possible, and you have big chunks in yours, as well as values that change very quickly between cells.

 

based on the fuel map, i can tell you the tuner didn't scale your injectors properly... either that or that's the worst spool up tuning ive ever seen.

 

Scaling is set to 790.

Dparrish - i don't have a maf anymore do you mean map scaling?

 

Oh I missed the SD conversion. So it's the VE table that needs a look at instead of MAF.

If your measured lambda is very different to your AFR table, then the ECU is injecting too much or too little fuel for the amount of air the engine is burning. Are you still running closed loop during cruise? It should be around 14.7 during cruising, not 11.3, that's way off.

What are your fuel trim values like? They are an indication of how much extra or less fuel the ECU has to put in to maintain a 14.7 during closed loop. The fuel trims should not be more than a few percent away from 0 (positive or negative).

If your low and mid fuel trims are more than a few percent off you'll probably need to muck with the injector scaling value to bring them closer to 0. There are a few threads around on how to scale injectors.

If the fuel trims are close to 0, then the VE table probably needs adjusting. Again there are threads around on how to tune VE. I haven't done it yet, I'm still on a MAF so I can't help much there.

 

I had a very knowledgeable guy do my SD conversion about 2 years ago if not longer and it's been fine since then in regards to the voltage conversions and I've had these injectors as long as I've had the turbo so I can't imagine why after they've already been scaled why someone would redo the scaling. And pardon the noobness but where do I go to to look for my low and mid fuel trims? Would that be available when I log the car? I'm about to go do a cruising log of the car now and see what it comes up with. I don't have my wideband hooked up to log so I'll just have to go with what it says for the time being until I wire it into the pin it belongs. Pin #75 if I'm not mistaken...

There's a pretty knowledgeable tuner here locally that offered his help in looking at it and seeing what he could do. Bad thing is there's no decent tuners for the evo world. Closest one is 2 hours away and my job puts a burden on making it out there to him to give it the proper tune it needs.

Thanks again for all your help man and I'll keep this updated as I go.

 

i missed the sd part also below.

if that spool area has been like that since 2 yrs since your tuner touched it, hes far from knowledgeable.. if anything the VE tables are rigged to hell if that value in the fuel map really achieves the proper afr at spool or maf tables are jacked.

there are tuners that do nothing but remote and can tune sd just fine remote.. so you cant say "there's no decent tuner for the evo world available in my location" if you have internet & proper hardware, you can be tuned by a decent tuner.

 

I know I can do email tuning but I prefer the tuner to be in the car when he is tuning and not 100+ miles away looking at nothing but my logs. Just a personal preference of mine.

And I'm almost positive this is not the same tune it originally had. It never ran this poorly until I got it back so please don't connect this current map with my previous tunes. Something drastic has changed from the old tune to whatever this one is and I need to find the solution.

 

It doesn't look like there's a simple solution like 'Increase x value' and that will fix your problem. The problem really is that it's a bad tune that's on there at the moment.

Hopefully this is not the tune you paid money for, but really the only solution I see with this limited information is "get it tuned properly".

There are a couple of major things wrong that I can see just by looking very quickly at the picture of the maps:
1. It's WAY too rich for an evo engine. I think it's like it is to compensate for bad VE or injector scaling.

2. There's a big hole in the middle of your fuel and ignition maps. There really shouldn't be, and that indicates to me that it's a bad tune. I'm not even sure why that hole would be there... extremely rich and massively retarded timing.. perhaps it knocks in that area and this was an effort to tune it out, but just done wrong. If there's knock in that spot that doesn't go away by reducing timing by a couple of degrees it may be a physical problem, perhaps your harmonic balancer is a tooth out, or you just have a noisy engine. Either way, the tune is broken and needs to be fixed/replaced.

 

I believe that "hole" is for my 2 step...

 

Gah! I'm too used to looking at Tephra which has separate maps for 2-step. Well in that case I accept the hole and still think the rest of the map is way too rich, indicating something else is wrong.

 

I just did about 5 logs of idle, cruising in 3rd, 5th, light accel from 2nd - 5th, and a 3rd wot. Come to find out I forgot to add knock sum to the log DOH!

Aaaannnddd my IDC's hit 98% on the wot pull...

Well gent's I just found a MAJOR problem which I should have seen from the beginning... The rom currently on my car is 94170015 which is clearly not for SD... So when he claimed to have flashed the old tune back on, he did not. I'm surprised the car even runs as well as it does knowing this...

 

ya the idc is gonna read high.. the cars running pig rich WOT. its a bad fuel map and its overcompensating for another failed component in the setup in general misconfigured (tune wise). (assuming the injectors and pump are sufficient for the mods and boost level)

9417 works fine on sd, so does 9653 (universal), so does 8859 .. that pretty much covers all USDM evo 8-9 etc.

you cant drive a evo with the maf disconnected on a maf rom it would bog to hell and back.. it would rely on limp mode tables.

i assure you the rom is for sd, you just cant see the sd portion because its not in your xml files. you would have a MAF cel as well.

id recommend updating it to v7 anyways.. as for being afraid to remote tune a car.. that is just your loss i guess.. you can find yourself in a worse situation with a tuner in your car tuning you then a well experienced remote tuner tuning the car.. regardless if they can hear the engine or not.. its not hard to detect misfires, etc remotely.

also as far as not logging knocksum.. it doesn't matter. if you logged timing you will see where it knocked based on timing being retarded given that specific load.

hope my information helped you some. good luck on ironing out your car.

 

I've tried searching on an idiots guide to putting v7 on ecuflash but I can't find one...

 

I will say I am like you, I wanted a tuner in the car tuning it. Well i went and found a few tuners all tuned my car and said it was great. I myself knew my car had more potential so I did the research and started tuning it myself. I didnt do bad and it took alot of time and research to learn what I have learned. No offense but it sounds like you have a long way to go before being able to tune your car for best drivablility and power as well as being safe. I have tuned mildly modifyed cars hondas mitsus nissan and I feel I do a good job. When it comes to modifyed cars like my own, I have gone through multiple tuners and the only tuner that could make my car run like it should is tscompusa. I also learned alot by looking at the changes he made to my tunes while we were tuning. I recommend having him remote tune your car and I am sure he wont mind explaining the reason for the changes hes making along the way. You can learn alot and also will love the way he will make your car run. As far as him being in his house looking at a computer screen.... while tuning my car he said pull over and check the hose that connects to your bov..I said ok so I checked and it was broke!! He said I thought so and I fixed it and we went on finishing the tune without any problems. Seems to be the key is check for boost leaks and make sure you have a tuner willing to put in the time to make your car right.
As far as idiot guides to V7, I dont think you will find one. Its all about research, you need to research alot before just jumping in and switching to V7.
Just my opinion from my own expierence, as you can see in my sig. my car makes great power. :-)