how to tune for VTA BOV with ecuflash
 

Im running a Greddy Type S VTA and am trying to get my car to not run so ridiculously rich at idle, any help would be really appreciated... I have ecuflash and mitsulogger and evoscana but i dont have a wideband o2 as of right now.. Car runs ridiculously rich at idle

i dont think your VTA bov is your issue. VTA is only an issue when you left off throttle from some level of boost, NOT from idling. how do u know ur even running rich without a wideband?

+1

And while you may be able to band-aid a VTA by leaning the appropriate cells in EcuFlash, the problem will always be there, due to the fact that you have a MAF sensor.

well, technically its not necessarily the MAF sensor itself - its just in the wrong place for VTA. ideally the MAF sensor would be in between the VTA BOV, and the throttle plate - like the MAF Translator setup.

i know the car wasnt really rich before, but now with the vta on the car my exhaust smells really bad @ idle and if im in neutral and am pegging it and holding @ rev limit of 7600for a few seconds theres a ****load of black smoke that comes out the exhaust... I have a stock exhaust on the car right now, do you think its the catalytic converter then ?

Why would you put your car in neutral and peg it off the rev limiter is my question.

The was the exhaust smells doesnt mean you are running rich. Your VTA BOV wont cause you to suddenly run rich at idle.

I got a idea, get a clue and take off the VTA BOV.

my buddy whose a tech said that if it blows a real lot of black smoke if i was pegging it to rev limit you could tell if your cat was clogged because he had some fear the cat was clogged.. He says it isnt clogged, he endedup taking it off the car but he said its running real rich at idle unsure on teh road since there is no wideband

VTA will not work correctly unless you stooge the ecu to respond drivable to the metered air that vented out, and that could take years to get that right. The whole configuration would need to be changed unless your happy with decreased performance

go with a stock DV valve and i bet all your problems go away

im dont really care about 5 horsepower or a little bit of boost lag etc as long as its not drastic and driving the car around i really cant notice any power or boost loss and calll me a ricer i love the sound of the type S... It is idling fine no bouncing around, just my exhaust looks black and appears to be running rich as **** at idle... maybe bov isnt the problem but it didnt do that until i had the bov on

I would check for a vacuum/boost leak before changing your tune. Odds are you have a rouge loose clamp or leaking hose.

Always troubleshoot the last modification before blaming something like the cat.

For the record you should have black smoke at redline in neutral. That burnt fuel has to go somewhere.

Double check all hose clamps and fittings on all pipes and tubes that you fooled around with while installing the BOV. Did you you cap the hole going to the intake pipe? If the turbo is sucking in unregulated air from the dump tube that could very well be your problem.

Ricer. I guess blowing off on civics and neons is more important than a properly running car to you.

i understand if you like that 'woosh'.. alot of people do. but yes you are a ricer if you throw parts onto the car with no understanding of how it works simply because it looks or sounds cool (especially when its affecting your car in a negative way).

i highly recommend the APS dual bov. it vents mostly to recirculate but on higher boost it will VTA some and give you that 'woosh' sound and avoid disrupting the MAF readings post throttle let-off.

lol!!!

LOL FAIL. "I want to tune my own car myself, and my primary tuning obstacle is my VTA BOV. I need help tuning around it." Sorry to contribute crap to an already crappy thread but it really is that ironic!

If you want to tune it correctly, buy the proper equipment:

GM MAF
MAF Translator
Dejon Upper IC pipe
Dejon Intake Pipe.

thanks for a good answer, i already have the dejon intake pipe, using stock uicp, il have to pic up a maf translator and a gm maf thanks

You can also get an HKS EIDS, but it does need to be tuned for to run properly.

ya i was reading about it, i havent heard many positive reviews

Thats because most just slap it on and hope it works. You need to actually get tuned for it. Maybe it once your ready for your next state of mods, but thats the only way ive seen a VTA BOV work well on an Evo with out switching to speed density.

like i said earlier - relocating the MAF works. thats how the MAFTranslator works.
the EIDS is just a bandaid.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=299943

MAF translator and sensor for sale

I agree and thats the route i would go if i was to go VTA. Im just going from the experience my friend has had with it and hes going on close to year with the EIDS and no problems. He also has the HKS racing BOV if that makes any difference.

+1

Have you felt to see if air is coming out of the valve at idle? If its venting at Idle it'll run rich, and there is **NOTHING** you can do to fix it except adjust the valve so it stays closer, in turn that ruins drivability even more..

EIDS is useless, it will never work right with an Evo, as it f's with the MAF signal.

blowthrough MAF sensors are great, and work really well on higher horsepower cars.. But are a huge waste of money if your intent is only to run a VTA BOV.

You need to recirculate the valve, period, if you don't, small children will cry, and kittens will be sacrificed to the ricer gods.

You can get that sound you want doing things the right way, Aftermarket intake with open element filter, and recirculate the valve back into the intake. You'll and you'll get the same sounds of midgets farting as "those other guys"

This is exactly what you're problem is.

Adjust the valve down so its closed during idle. (no air coming out) This will help. But not fix your situation.

The black smoke is because your car cannot build boost. The valve is so open at idle, the vacuum line on the bov doesn't see boost. Or close. Which means you are simply trying to boost, out of a hole in the UICP.

Which doesn't work, because your MAF metered car is still seeing all that air go thru the system and drowning the car in fuel.

I have a WB o2. And I will tell you right now, if you see thick black smoke out of the ass of the car like that its in the low 8's A/F. Lower if you have a cat.

I just tested knock off HKS and it was the same story. However it had no adjustment. :rolleyes: So I cracked it open and got a heavy spring out of another bov for it. Its now fine. And stays closed at idle. And honestly my a/f ratio stays where it should.

But, this is no substitute for a properly recirculated bov. That was just a test. And, its not staying on the car.

uninstall the ricer in you. if for some reason your still running the program and cant uninstall, then get a dual port valve that can recirculate some of the air and vent so you get your cool "woosh" and still the driveability of a recirculating valve. Or better yet, just recirculate the damn thing, thats the beauty of the type s.

Only valve that i had work problem free on two different maf cars that ive owned, built 90 talon, 00 s4, would be a pull type valve like the hks. the hks works differently, and i dont know if its worth trying to explain if you cant even figure this out, but it is an option that should give you a loud fricken noise and still 80% driveability unlike a ventign valve which is more close to 30% i think. also dont run a tial on a maffed car LOL stall city

I have a Greddy Type S on my car, and it is recirculating, along with a full Injen (Junk) set-up of the upper intercooler pipes, and their intake. I am running a TurboXS (I think) MAF adapter with a K&N cone filter on the end, and my Type S you can hear from 6 blocks away.

I have a properly running, properly recirculating BOV set-up that runs as intended, and it is still loud as hell. So, if I can do it, and still make all sorts of midget fart noises, and have a properly running car, then you can too. So, fix your car, set it up properly, get it to run right, then you can have your loud fart noises all you want. Do it the right way and you will spend less time trying to fix it than you would have if you just did it right the first time.

good info, i got a similar problem!

Ok back to the question for those of us who do have the right shiznit, I have the GEN2 Trans and have it tuned "ok" right now. But the Auto AF correction is on. So I was talking with another member on here who has a VTA setup and ECUflash just like me. He had a dyno/tune session done last weekend and he said the tuner turned the auto AF off and used a mix of ECUflash/MAFTPro settings to get the car tuned.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=299966

So here is my questions, why turn auto AF off? What settings should be made in the TRANS and what settings should be made on the ROM?

(No I am not asking for settings like numbers I know every car is different I am asking what areas should I let the TRANS control and what areas should I let the ECU control?)

I'm not reading all the responses because I anticipate all the crazy responses (which I probably agree with). So to answer your question the best that I can without giving you my 2 cents:

ULTRA lean out the high RPM-low load cells. Start out with 17 in cells from 0 to 40 load and 4000 to 6500 RPM. Taper the cells around that block back to their normal values. This will help when blowing off, but won't solve it as I'm sure many others have said on here. Let me know if I need to be more explicit. You'll have to PM me, I won't check this thread again.