Appauldd

iTrader: (22)

Start a new thread....we can discuss mid range knock. Or send me a PM with your email...we can discuss it there.

We pretty much killed the OP on this one.

Hopefully people learned a lot about LTFT tuning.

ethan169

iTrader: (3)

old but good stuff. subscribed. Paul every search i do on big cams and idle you name comes up lol. I guess your the guy thats go some experience to share with the rest of us.

Thanks

-Ethan

Appauldd

iTrader: (22)

I just like to stick my nose in where I can help people. My concern isn't to tune for big top end numbers. To me, the top end isn't as important as low and mid range.

As i stated many times before, most people drive their cars relatively consistently and the majority of that driving is in the mid and lower rpm ranges. Thus, I tune to have the biggest area under the curve as possible. Guess you can kind of call me a torque junkie. (I can't wait to stroke my engine...lol)

If a car only sees the upper 1/3 of its rpm at track days and the occasional push on the highway, but is daily driven and the operator loves to push hard on on and off ramps, and enjoys spirited twisty road cruising...mid and low is where it is at.

What good it a car that has 700 whp but won't idle below 1200 rpm but will make killer power from 6500 to 7500 rpm? What good is a car that has to crank for 10 seconds before it catches and finally fires? What good is a car that won't turn over in cold weather?

We all have our areas of "expertise".

I'm just sayin.

Paul

evo420

^^^this is what i am looking for^^^

evo420

and also what i am having the hardest time with.

Appauldd

iTrader: (22)

Mid range tuning requires a lot of pulls. It is easier if you have a long slow grade hill so you can hit higher loads at lower speeds. The same goes with tuning the lower loads, they can be hit at lower speeds if you are cruising down hill. You have to get good at being able to brake and gas at the same time some times.

The goal is to log enough that you see the majority of your table being hit, then go line by line on the log of the pull and adjust your tables as necessary.

As always, tune AFR first, then play a little with boost, go back to AFR, then boost, finally go after timing. Add until you see the onset of knock. Back off 2 to 3 degrees and call it quits.