duranvw

iTrader: (2)

No, this is good info thanks for the reply. I just datalogged the car with all sensors plugged in and the stock tune flashed. The attached file is the data from starting the car twice and letting it stall out. The front O2 sensor value never changes. I also datalogged with an open loop flash and the same value for front 02 never changes. Again not throwing any codes.

See the data log here;
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/51727132/Ev...ck%20flash.xls

What values are expected from front O2? Can anyone confirm what they get at idle?

90zcrex

iTrader: (11)

It looks like when the car is dying out that the ecu is trying to give it more fuel to keep running, if you look at where the rpm starts to drop in your datalog, the injector pulsewidth goes up and accel enrichment goes up as well. Seems like the ecm is trying to keep it running. The o2 sensor is just going to be a on off switch pretty much, so once you get around 14.7afr the sensor will jump back and forth between ~0-1v. I don't think that should cause the engine to shut off though.

Dynotech Tuning

iTrader: (12)

Hot wiring your pump with a stock FPR will definitely change our AFR at idle. It will overrun the stock FPR. Once in closed loop, the ECU will remove the excess fuel up to 25% less but that is as much as it can remove.

The evo has 2 voltages to the fuel pump, low load (around 8-10v) and high load (12+v). When you initially start the car it switches to high load briefly to help give the engine slightly more fuel when starting, then it switches back to the lower voltage circuit. It sounds like you witnessed the high load circuit turn on for a few seconds while you were testing.

-Jamie

90zcrex

iTrader: (11)

Ok, this makes sense. Sounds like your not getting voltage from your resistor to the pump.
I bet the ecu defaults to the 12v wiring when you unplug the maf as a safety.

I almost bet you are losing voltage either at the resistor or from the resistor to the pump. Here is the schematic, follow my other post on how to check it.
The FUEL PUMP REGISTOR is the resistor, check voltage before and after it,

duranvw

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, so that sounds right, and when I mat the gas pedal I can keep it running for as long as the throttle is right down (sending 12V to pump). It definately is not getting the lower voltage. I have tried replacing that fuel pump relay #3 and the resistor.

What is the best way to check for voltate? Do I leave the resitor and relay plugged in and backprobe? I can't remember what the pigtail looks like if I can get a lead for a volt meter in there

90zcrex

iTrader: (11)

Yea, leave the resistor plugged in and backprobe if you can, if you cant get the lead in there then you can use a safety pin or something metal to ***** the wire and check it. You should have 12v going into the resistor and 7 or so coming out.
If it's good there then your losing it where it connects to the fuel pump hot wire, at connector C-21.
If you don't have voltage at the resistor, your losing it going IN to connector C21.

According to the wiring diagrams it looks like connector c21 is up under the dash, its a 10 pin connector.

duranvw

iTrader: (2)

Ok, I'll do some probing, is C-21 not a pin from one of the three ECU pigtails?

Also I get the following message if I try using the fuel pump actuator;

Info: OpenPort 2.0 Found.
Info: OpenPort Firmware v1.10.302
Info: Battery 11.306V
Info: Initialize Vehicle ECU...
Info: Initializing At 5 baud...
Info: Timer: 2122.4069ms
Info: Initialization Complete...
Info: Waiting for INIT Response...
Info: ECU ID: E0FA
Error: No Response from Vehicle ECU
Info: Actuator Complete.

Can anyone else try their Fuel Pump Actuator in EVOScan? Do you hear the pump kick in?

raulthode

Im with 90czrex on this one......recently my balance shaft belt let go and naturally took the cranksensor with it.....but of course i wouldnt find out until after the first day of troubleshooting. So here i go measuring voltages all over the place, pulling all relevant fuel and ignition connectors. Long story short: after replacing all belts and the CKP sensor and tried firing here up.......start then stalls..only stays alive when revving past 50% throttle...wtf? what now? again? After a couple hours wondering if I should just convert my beloved car into rolling BBQ pit, I just go and wiggle the resistor connector and...voila! Loose! Pushed her tightly back into place and she starts right up and idles fine....up to this day...

duranvw

iTrader: (2)

You are talking about the fuel pump resistor on the passenger side of the firewall correct? I know it's not just a loose connector I've even replaced the resistor itself but I will be doing the backprobing in the next day or two as suggested.

90zcrex

iTrader: (11)

According to the wiring diagrams it is not one of the ecu connectors, C-21 is only a 10 pin connector, it doesn't say exactly where it is but from the location of the wiring it looks like under the dash, i would definitely check for some loose pins or spread open terminals in this connector, as well as on the resistor connector.

If all else fails, just run a new wire from the output of the resistor and tap it into the fuel pump hot wire and your done.

raulthode

I just re-read this post......You are using the OP 2.0 for diagnostics on a 9?
According to me, the OP 2.0 is used on 5/6 and X evo ecu's primarily for flashing(on the X for diagnostics preffered too) and either 1.3R or 1.3U cable is required for faster datalogging speeds and diagnostics. And 1.3R/U is used for flashing 7/8/9 evos......(according to what I have read on the evoscan website)....Please correct me if I am wrong....

duranvw

iTrader: (2)

Ok so I did some continuity tests for the following wiring. The yellow passed, and the red I had no continuity. This is me testing with the car NOT running and relay/resistor unplugged and just tested from the pigtails for each part.

I don't seem to have continuity from relay #3 to the resistor, or from relay #3 to the pump. I ran out of time but I will next test right to the wire with a pin instead of the connector to rule out a broken connection at the pigtail and then also test when trying to start the car.

I should have continuity in the two red marked wires even with the car off and relay #3 removed right?

90zcrex

iTrader: (11)

It looks like you are losing your power to the resistor where its splices from relay 3. You need to check again the white wire that goes from relay 3 to the pump because this wire must be good if your car is starting with 12v to the pump.

Run a new wire from the red and white wire (pin2) of the fuel pump relay to the red/white wire on the resistor.

duranvw

iTrader: (2)

I agree, I checked the white wire from relay 3 to the pump twice, I mean it has to be working because the car starts, but I didnt show continuity... strange. Yes I'm going to try putting in a new wire from relay3 to the resistor tonight. It's easy enough to cut the pig tail of the resistor and hard wire it in but not sure how easily I can do it on the relay end, just solder right to the pin of the relay?

90zcrex

iTrader: (11)

The best way would be to get to the back of the fusebox and find the correct wire and tap into it there. If you can find the two red and white wires coming off of FP relay 3, you should be able to trace them to connector C-21, all three of these wires splice into each other there, I bet your problem is probably at that connection.