Starting my first tune
#1
Starting my first tune
My 04 evo is the first car I have ever owned that I will be tuning myself. I am currently building a second engine and have since left my original engine in my car. Car currently has 95k on it and using 96420008 ROM.
Mods are: TBE(catless), AEM intake, UICP and LICP, walbro 255, MBC, turbo XS 3.5 inch intercooler, and skunk 2 throttle body. I am the second owner and bought car as it stands with the exception of the fuel pump. I could not find any boost leaks and the MBC is to lower boost closer to factory levels to avoid boost cut.
I have an AEM wideband connected via serial cable to log AFR. I would like to know what the first steps to tuning are. Should I start by going right for the A/F ratios or timing? Should I tune for the intake first? I just want to get the tune dialed in pretty well. Not looking for maximum numbers at this point.
I have read through Merlins guide and plenty of other tuning resources just for the record. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Mods are: TBE(catless), AEM intake, UICP and LICP, walbro 255, MBC, turbo XS 3.5 inch intercooler, and skunk 2 throttle body. I am the second owner and bought car as it stands with the exception of the fuel pump. I could not find any boost leaks and the MBC is to lower boost closer to factory levels to avoid boost cut.
I have an AEM wideband connected via serial cable to log AFR. I would like to know what the first steps to tuning are. Should I start by going right for the A/F ratios or timing? Should I tune for the intake first? I just want to get the tune dialed in pretty well. Not looking for maximum numbers at this point.
I have read through Merlins guide and plenty of other tuning resources just for the record. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Last edited by nismo3183; Jul 21, 2013 at 05:59 PM.
#2
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (9)
This might help.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ge...iming-afr.html
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ge...iming-afr.html
#4
Evolving Member
iTrader: (13)
This might help.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ge...iming-afr.html
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ge...iming-afr.html
#5
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (9)
Also, decide if you want lean spool on or off. I would disable it and retune the entire fuel map. Its just more consistent that way.
I would at least log
Rpm
boost ( I've found that evo X sensor to works well)
Load 1 byte
A/F A serial AEM guage logging cable from STM/spec ops.
Coolant temp
Injector duty
WG duty
WG duty correction
Knock sum
Knock voltage ( Anything over 2 volts should be considered real knock )
Those are the only ones that come to mind, but its 9am and I'm one cup of coffee in. Thanks again to all the evo guru's that deciphered the code and shared their findings. They've made it much easier to tune.
#6
Major reasons why I don't want to go tephra V7 are:
1.)I don't know that much about it. Whenever I read information about it I get a little confused and I definitely don't want to do anything to my ecu if it confuses me. I wanted to get my car running as best as possible on the original ROM before I started messing around with others since 96420008 is not covered. Once my built motor is done, Tom from TSComptuned is going to tune it with V7 and go SD.
2.) Inspection has me worried like crazy. I have read some crazy horror stories mainly from other states. I live in NJ and am unfamiliar with what I can get away with for lack of a better reason.
Other than that I have just been trying to take tuning in small steps without biting off more then I can chew. My car is not running that bad but I know that after putting the parts on that are listed int he OP my A/F ratio should be all over the place. That is why I was concerned about other things such as MAF scaling for my AEM intake.
One other thing.... I know that evo ROM's generally come with a lot of ignition advance from the factory so now I understand to alter this first. Based on my logs taken, I get 1 count of knock occasionally around 3500 rpm. If thhis is the case should I say the the hell with ignition timing and start leaning it out. Car is definitely running pig rich under full throttle. BTW it is outrageously hot and humid in NJ right now for tuning purposes. 95-100 degrees with high humidity.
1.)I don't know that much about it. Whenever I read information about it I get a little confused and I definitely don't want to do anything to my ecu if it confuses me. I wanted to get my car running as best as possible on the original ROM before I started messing around with others since 96420008 is not covered. Once my built motor is done, Tom from TSComptuned is going to tune it with V7 and go SD.
2.) Inspection has me worried like crazy. I have read some crazy horror stories mainly from other states. I live in NJ and am unfamiliar with what I can get away with for lack of a better reason.
Other than that I have just been trying to take tuning in small steps without biting off more then I can chew. My car is not running that bad but I know that after putting the parts on that are listed int he OP my A/F ratio should be all over the place. That is why I was concerned about other things such as MAF scaling for my AEM intake.
One other thing.... I know that evo ROM's generally come with a lot of ignition advance from the factory so now I understand to alter this first. Based on my logs taken, I get 1 count of knock occasionally around 3500 rpm. If thhis is the case should I say the the hell with ignition timing and start leaning it out. Car is definitely running pig rich under full throttle. BTW it is outrageously hot and humid in NJ right now for tuning purposes. 95-100 degrees with high humidity.
#7
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (9)
Those are very good reasons and I can agree with you. You might have to keep the boost lower so that it doesn't overboost in the higher gears on the stock setup. Are you going with a 3 port or modding the pill in the factory BCS? Tom @ Tscomp is pretty good and I would recommend him.
Is it a full length intake the puts the filter in the fender?
I don't know if I would run an Aftermarket intake or a open filter unless you are running a bigger turbo or SD. I've read a bunch of stories about idle issues and I also believe that there is a benefit of having the stock air intake box pulling cooler air from outside the engine compartment. Yes, it will make 10whp more on a dyno with the hood open without the air filter lid but what does that do when the hood is closed and you are driving around.
As far as timing goes, A tuned map is much different then a stock map. You need to figure out what boost you're going to run and then line the map up . The timing map thread has a bunch of good ones.
You have to measure voltage not just knock count. Also, the farther your car gets from stock more likely it will develop false knock.
Is it a full length intake the puts the filter in the fender?
I don't know if I would run an Aftermarket intake or a open filter unless you are running a bigger turbo or SD. I've read a bunch of stories about idle issues and I also believe that there is a benefit of having the stock air intake box pulling cooler air from outside the engine compartment. Yes, it will make 10whp more on a dyno with the hood open without the air filter lid but what does that do when the hood is closed and you are driving around.
As far as timing goes, A tuned map is much different then a stock map. You need to figure out what boost you're going to run and then line the map up . The timing map thread has a bunch of good ones.
You have to measure voltage not just knock count. Also, the farther your car gets from stock more likely it will develop false knock.
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#8
EvoM Guru
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I was in the same boat as you as far as no knock and super rich A/F. I decided to lean it out slowly and do lots of logging. I'd pull some fuel, log, and find knock showing up. I'd then pull some timing and pull more fuel. Repeat this process until your A/F is where you want it and you're not knocking anywhere. Did the previous owner have it tuned?
#11
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another tuning noob here, correct me if im wrong but isnt the fuel map irrelevant when you are not near WOT or cold start due to you being in closed loop and the ecu depending on the o2 sensor to determine how much fuel to put in? unless you are running full time open loop...?
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