well hold on man u gotta crappy intercooler and your gonna swap it for a stocker...naw man to be honest, sell that piping and ic to someone, buy from a quality manufacturer, comin from me ive done it spend the money right the first time or else ur gonna kick urself in the ***, for throwin money down the drain, might as well smoke it or throw it in your fireplace, or hell ill take it off your hands haha, but on the real sounds like original owner, went majorly cheap on most parts not dissin it just being honest. That ic and the piping would be a start, but im suprised that even with all those parts on 25 psi you only made that...i would assume with the ported intake mani exhaust mani and tb, you shouldve pulled over 360 hp...instead of that mbc, preload the wastegate like u said u wanted to, and swap your mbc for a 3port...

 

Don't spend your money on a stock FMIC and stock IC piping.
Get a ETS 3.5" FMIC and ETS LICP.
The ETS FMICs have been proven to work very well and their LICP is also one of the best on the market.

 

Im gonna look into ETS for both the IC and IC piping just like HAVOC187 mentioned above. You mention I should get a 3 Port. Whats that? a mbc and if it is, is it better than a hallman? Thanks man

 

Another cheap alternative for IC piping would be a Muse UICP/LICP kit, you can get those from an EvoM vendor VRspeedfactory... you will have to get a mini battery kit as well... You can never go wrong with ETS products though!

 

thank you all for the support and advice. it sucks now i gotta spend money to do it right since the first owner never did. Im searching for deal on ETS and Muse for the IC and IC pipes. does anyone here know how to tension the stock actuator on the IX's? or should i just buy an FP or forged actuator?

 

The Injen UICP will be fine with good coupler's, its the crappy Injen LICP that's robbing you of power.

 

my cousin made 478 whp on a ebay fmic. Really doubt thats your problem.

 

thats good for him! what was his setup, the type of dyno and the climate temp when he got tuned? and if you dont think thats the problem what do you think it is?

 

Your cousin could have made more with a real IC

 

Ebay intercoolers are a whole different subject and has actually been tested by both Buschur and ETS. The results speak for themselves.

335-340whp is normal for those mods on stock cams and a stock intercooler. The fact that its corrected and hot in Miami means its making less. Those parts (pipes and intercooler) bring the knock threshold that much closer to the surface.

Injen pipes have severe angles that reduce flow (look at the S shape of the intake), small clamping surface and short couplers which make boost leaks easier (and higher intake temps for a given boost level since 25.7psi can really be 30psi), and in general lack the engineering of newer products.

MIVEC mapping is critical in stock cam cars to make power. There is a very good reason (not just the fact its 65-70* here most of the time) that some cars make 370 and some cars only make 335-340.

It seems a lot of the MR BOVs start to leak at 26psi or so as they age unless they have been gus modded or turned backwards.

A few things to look at.

 

Ya toss that ebay FMIC in the garbage, those things have horrible efficiency and cooling.

Like others mentioned getting a different LICP will help as well.

I'm also not a fan of the turboxs MBC. I think its kinda cheap and from my experience with them they don't spool fast or hold that great.
Check out this thread for info on some good controllers. https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...ed-tuning.html

 

@david2000 u can also run in shoes with holes and them does that mean its better no...look into the ETS kit
@ gymnasty, i ran xs engineerings kit before and it was pretty good but a 3" ic over 400 hp can start to heatsoak quick, and since your in a humid hot climate like florida, makes ur ic work twice as hard since it cant cool the incoming charge. Which is why i switched to full ets piping with short route uicp, and there 3.5 ic. Ill be havin a retune done soon, with some other mods and when that happens ill have my tuner overlay baseline on previous runs to end result, and then baseline with my new mods plus, final overall. As far as the 3 port goes it works like your stock boost solenoid, however you can hold more boost to redline and taper less then with a mbc given your tuner knows how to tune one. MBCs are nice, I run the dejon tool currently and while adjustments with the knob work on the fly, MBC kinda leave out such things as boost by gear, adjusting for temperature etc. Look into one.

 

@projectskyline yea im definitely getting rid of the turboxs mbc. thanks for the link it was extremely helpful im in between the hallman, forge and grimspeed.

@dastallion yea when i got tuned it was really hot and humid and were in hurricane season the weather is **** right now which for sure played a factor on the results :/ but just like you im looking for a good deal on a ETS IC and lic piping with short route uicp but cant find any links for a kit with the short route uicp i keep getting regular uicp sizes. if you know any venders that sell that kit so i can save some money please let me know.

P.S: im also planning on getting an aftermarket actuator to help with holding boost more efficiently. what do you guys recommend. FP actuator, Forge adjustable actuator or just tension my stock IX actuator. TIA!

 

I missed the turboxs MBC. That is a bleed style so it takes a big spike to get the boost to hold right out the top. That could be a good portion of why its not making power.

 

Ditch the MBC for a 3 port solenoid. Ecu controlled boost is a much better option imo.