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Let us know if you have any updates. We want to see your engine running and making some serious power.
had to wait for my timing tools to come in the mail to make it easier on myself. I redid the timing and gave it a crank just to see if it would go possibly. I am getting no spark at all. Don’t know where to go from now?
had to wait for my timing tools to come in the mail to make it easier on myself. I redid the timing and gave it a crank just to see if it would go possibly. I am getting no spark at all. Don’t know where to go from now?
How are you checking for spark? Can you post some pictures so we can see your engine bay?
Last edited by 2006EvoIXer; Apr 12, 2018 at 05:10 PM.
How are you checking for spark? Can you post some pictures so we can see your engine bay?
I am holding the spark plug attached to the coil to the valve cover I will get a picture of the engine bay as soon as I can anything in preticular you wanted to see.
I am holding the spark plug attached to the coil to the valve cover I will get a picture of the engine bay as soon as I can anything in preticular you wanted to see.
just trying to see what you're seeing.
When you say holding spark plug to valve cover, I assume you are pressing the spark plug to a clean unpainted surface on valve cover. A picture of that would help too.
Personally, if I wanted to test like that, I would grab a wire and clamp it on a bolt on head (like the engine hook in front above cylinder #2 exhaust) and wrap the other end around spark plug thread.
Thinking about what you're doing some more, I don't think the valve cover is grounded to head. There are rubber separating it from the head and the cover bolts have insulators as washers. Try my wire method where you clamp wire to head (see blue circle below).
Last edited by 2006EvoIXer; Apr 12, 2018 at 06:26 PM.
had to wait for my timing tools to come in the mail to make it easier on myself. I redid the timing and gave it a crank just to see if it would go possibly. I am getting no spark at all. Don’t know where to go from now?
Have you checked your fuses inside the cab? There's a fuse 7.5 amp for ignition that gets over powered when running aftermarket cop. I had the same issue with my new build. We had the battery tender on while priming the oil system and for its first ignition, and it kept blowing that ignition fuse. Bumped it up to a 10 amp and no issues with it still in there. It won't hurt anything putting a 10 in. It's gonna use more power with the cop anyways
I’m still looking for some help as my car will not start from the shop. The technician says that it is the immobilizer that is stopping the car from starting. When I go to start the car I get spark and I get a one quick pulse for the injectors but no fuel. So I got around to taking out my after market alarm system thinking that might help but still nothing changed. At this point I’m thinking it’s a problem with the ecu and am going to take it to my nearest tuner 3 hours away. Does anyone have any thoughts on what it could be before I haul it 3 hours. Any thoughts help lots thanks.
You can jump the fuel pump under the hood. Just to get your engine started, connect a 20A fused wire from battery positive to the the leg labeled 6.6V.
Last edited by 2006EvoIXer; Dec 12, 2018 at 07:25 PM.
I had a suggestion to put a wire from the ignition to the fuel pump but that doesn’t make sense to me to do. I’m figuring it has to be ecu. Would jumping the fuel pump make it continue to run?
I had a suggestion to put a wire from the ignition to the fuel pump but that doesn’t make sense to me to do. I’m figuring it has to be ecu. Would jumping the fuel pump make it continue to run?
ok I’ll try to figure that out tomorrow and hopefully that makes it go. Would I have to do that every time to start it then though?
This is not the way to fix your problem. It is only a way to bypass your problem, assuming that it is your ECU immobilizer that is cutting your fuel pump power. If this works, your tuner can turn off your immobilizer.
The immobilizer is already off that’s why I can’t figure it out. So I removed my alarm system figuring that may have an immobilizer and still had nothing. Would a tuner be able to figure anything else out in the ecu that would cause it to not want to inject the fuel?
The immobilizer is already off that’s why I can’t figure it out. So I removed my alarm system figuring that may have an immobilizer and still had nothing. Would a tuner be able to figure anything else out in the ecu that would cause it to not want to inject the fuel?
check either of those legs to see if you have any voltage while someone is cranking your engine. If no voltage, then check your fuel pump #2 output (brown wire) for 12V. If there is 12V, then your wire is broken between those 2 spots. I'll need to review the OEM setup again since it's been a while aince I've looked at it. Basically, 12V goes through your fuse box. Fuel pump relays #1 & #2 are there on fuse box, that outputs 12V to that brown wire that goes to under your hood to 6.6V resistors and fuel pump relay #3.
There's no point in having a tuner look at your car until we can determine that it is an ECU tuning issue.
It's possible an ecu is defective if CAS signal isn't triggering fuel pump relay #2 to activate. Anyway, fuel pump relays #1 & #2 are 2 of these 3 relays. I can't remember which two off the top of my head.
Apr 12, 2018, 04:52 PM
