do a search... highoutputalternators.com dominic irragi...

 

I would agree if the original poster had said he was having problems with his battery going flat, but he isn't. Since the alternator is the only device charging the battery, logically the alternator must be providing enough power to keep it charged.

Whether or not the battery voltage is of a reasonable amount (~13.6V) when the engine is running is another matter - a multimeter would easily confirm that, rather than having us all guess here.

Remember that the 100% load value (for a class D amp) that you specified above is the peak value - that amplifier will not sustain that current draw for an extended period of time. The subwoofer is the item drawing the most current, and a larger capacitor will smooth out any dips in the car's power system when the sub hits for brief moments.

We could argue it all day, but in the end this needs to be tried on the actual vehicle, and many variables can combine to make many different methods of solving the problem all work in different ways.

 

Um, it has been tried on actual vehicles... Mine and his. please see my "teaser pics" post in this same forum. I have been running that amp set-up for 5 months, and I have just 100W over what the OP mentioned. The cool thing about the MR, is that it comes with a Volt meter. At night, with the headlights on, driving down the highway, I would watch the volts slowly drop, and my gauge backlights get very dim. Turn off the stereo, and the gauges would brighten and stay bright.

Not only has it been tried on my car.... It was tried on his car... he said it himself that the electrical system was tested, and that his system was fine, but when the stereo was turned on, there was an excessive draw.

His battery isn't going all the way flat... But he has every symptom of it going that way.

This isn't rocket science. like I said even at 50% load, the OP's alternator is taking a MAJORITY of the alternator output. start adding your headlights, your ECU, your ignition system, your interior lights, your radar detector, your headunit draw, and you are over the charging system's budget. Turn that stereo up all the way, and you're WAY over.

This is simple economics... You're spending more than you are making. It doesn't matter how much you have in the bank, eventually you're going to go broke.

Spending = electrical load
Income = alternator
bank = battery

you can throw batteries and capacitors at this problem all day... all those do is delay the inevitable and make that stock alternator work it's *** off trying to charge those all between the loads.

Oh yeah.... when I upgraded my alternator, my problems went bye bye. Why you may ask... because it was the correct fix.

 

^ 100% correct.

Another point to make is that an alternators output degrades over time. The voltage regulator permits the alternator to charge the battery only when needed so you can't overcharge the battery (bad). The stock electrical systems typically demand that the alternator charge 25-50% of the time. A stereo system like the OP can make this closer to 100% meaning the life of the alternator is greatly reduced and the output will decrease more quickly.

Add a bunch of caps into the equation and you think the problem goes away because of the buffering it provides but in reality it needs to be recharged after each discharge too and adds load to the alternator.

You also have to consider the demand of the amp. Class D mono amps are small, cheap and have high efficiency ratings at 4 ohms. But... when loaded down to their limit the efficiency is worse than many Class A/B amps. They also square wave or clip by design increasing the instant current required. In many cases these amps only make electrical problems worse. There is only one way to make the additional current requried...

 

just to make something clear... there is a place for a capacitor, to quickly allow for amperage when there is a very short, over-draw. I have two of them on my system. but so many people try to use them to make up for an over-taxed charging system, so they get a bad rep.

 

TempeRacerGuy,

where did you purchase your upgraded alternator? what amps is it? and how much did it cost?

 

The correct place for capacitors to handle draw is in the amplifier. Unfortunately all amps now are built with high peak power ratings and built as cheaply as possible so these components that aren't necessary for the amp to work are eliminated. In this case a small external cap 1 farad per 1000 watts helps as long as it is fast enough to exceed the speed of the battery. Carbon Alloy type caps do not do this and charge and discharge at a rate similar to a battery.

Caps are marketed as a necessity and are really just another profit center and are hyped with large worthless products.

 

I *did* say the OP should test the voltage with a multimeter - he actually said he had someone look to see if the voltage was sufficient, and it was.

BTW, he also said that he has a mini-battery, which has a higher internal resistance than a larger battery, meaning that the voltage will dip with high current draws. This in itself will require something else to provide extra current, so an alternator would work. However, I think he is trying to avoid doing that... and surely it is his own choice.

Meh, let's see what happens when he gets the capacitor.

 

I would put a new alternator on, the only problem is everyone on here keeps telling me I need one, however no one has told me where to get one and how much they are! I ordered to cap for now to patch it till I get some money and also find out where to get an alternator! I knew exactly where to buy the cap I wanted so I just went ahead and got it!

As for my battery, I still have the stocker in it for now, I will be getting a Mini when I get my new intercooler and piping! But for now its the Big Stock one!

Where is the best place to get a new alternator and how much of a pita is it to install?

Thanks

 

There are many companies lpeople posted that make High Output Alternators. I always used Ohio Generator since they were a bolt and plug in. You can also get a rebuilt from any auto part store. I had a customer with an RX7 that has the alternator on the top fron tof hte motor. He bought a rebuilt from Pep Boys with a lifetime warranty and just replaced it every 6 months or so when teh brushes were barely worn. I don't know if Ohio Generator has a Lancer application but I'll find out soon when my new motor goes in.

 

Ok, thanks, I was trying to find a new one that just bolts on but all the pages I looked at, none of them had a price or anything like that! Thanks for your help tho!

 

not only have I listed this information in like 3 other posts.... but I also wrote it in this post... please people, do a search!!!

OK, here it is spoon-fed to you:

www.highoutputalternators.com
DIRECT FIT (no bracket/harness fabrication, DIRECT BOLT IN)
$649 (no core)
Turn on speed (500 RPM)
Idle output (120amps)
output at 1500 RMP (150amps)
Charge Voltage set point (14.4V)
Rated output (2400Va) 167amps @ 14.4V
Weight 18lbs

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Dominick Iraggi dominick@tds.net

Here you go..

180 $379
200 $399
220 $419

All max's are between 1500 and 2000 engine rpm.
Idle is between 95 and 115. The higher the max, the less the idle.
Thanks, Dom

Dominick Irragi is well respected, but last time I talked to him was back in May, and I havn't gotten a response lately. He used to have an E-bay store and sell alot on E-bay, but I can't find it anymore...

 

OK, because there were so many people who asked where you can get a high output alternator, I contacted Dominick.

He said that he is willing to do a group buy, which would be a pretty significant discount.

I have contacted the admins to ask if it's ok, that I set this up... I would be making ZERO on the deal... just want to help out the Evo community.

I am getting all the details now, but he said that he's willing to do 10-25 alternators with a group buy. If you are interested, let me know, and if I get the green light from the admins, I will let you know and post about the group buy where appropriate.

Thank you

 

im definitely in!!

 

Anyone that is interested, please PM me, I don't want this to turn into some kind of sales thread. Thank you.