Clearly, you did not read the text and note how much effort was spent on weight maintenance, how the bulk of the weight was installed at or below the car's center of gravity, and how lightweight materials were utilized throughout the install. You also didn't bother to read far enough to notice the system is no longer in place. Thanks for stopping by and telling us how much better you are than the rest of us, though.

 

I did, I just said it's not my taste and frankly wouldn't do it myself. Would you rather me lie and tell you it's awesome? I said props and gave my opinion, if you don't want it, don't post it on a public forum.

 

nice setup, i would love to do this to my car but dont think i got the $$ for it now, great work and i love how clean you install your things, i hate when people leave wires and stuff all over the place, nice clean work sir

 

A rally car? It's a rally-inspired car at best. I don't think Felix is any rally events on a day-to-day basis

 

Here's the set up that I used to have in my old 1997 Maxima GXE circa 2003:

Pioneer DEH-P9300
Diamond Audio HEX S600s
Diamond Audio M361i
Phoenix Gold Tantrum 500.2
Rockford Fosgate Punch 500a2
JL Audio CS310R-W0
Monster 1 Farad Capacitor
KnuKonceptz Complete Wiring








I still have this setup, minus the subs and the hu, and I've been thinking about installing this stuff in the evo minus the cap. What do you guys think?

-Jalal

 

Hi, Jalal. I apologize for not replying sooner; didn't see the post. To answer your question, I wouldn't bother with the whole setup. The subs are essentially useless, as the car's low-frequency emissions effective cancel out the bulk of the low end. The speakers, while fine on their own, aren't really sensitive enough to overcome the roar of the car more than the stock drivers. If you want to improve the sound, I'd suggest installing the HU and one of the amps to power the fronts. IIRC, the PG is fairly narrow and it may fit under the front seat (~8" max width).

 

No worries, sir. You don't think that the Hex's and the M3's would be enough for the evo assuming I had a good Alpine HU and my PG? I can't imagine for the life of me that the OEM speakers are better than the Hex's and the M3's. More specifically the Hex. 150wRMS.
I do not intend to use any kind of large subwoofer at all. I wish I could mount a single IB sub right in the middle of our rear deck and be done with it. I would def just do HU-Speakers-Amp and I think I'd be very happy. Possibly the door sound deadening as you did as well. There is quite a bit of rattle in our door panels.

http://www.diamondaudio.com/content/view/194/214/

-Jalal

 

You have a record player in the car? lol Nice collection of LP's

 

Oh, the stock speakers aren't better than the Diamonds by a mile; they're not even in the same league all things being equal. But, all things aren't equal. The noise factor in the car is overwhelming, audio-wise. The Diamonds' added resolution is lost in the noise once the car is moving. If the Diamonds' were 10dB more sensitive, I'd have them in my own car.

My Evo is not as loud as most others around here. This environment effectively rendered every quality speaker I auditioned as useless at speed, not gaining over stock in clarity and dynamics and often performing worse. I'm in the process of looking for a speaker with the stockers' sensitivity and added detail and dynamic range, along with a more refined tonal balance. Some of the DLS models look good on paper, but I have moderate hope. I've had way too much gear in this car to do anything on faith.

I like the IB idea, too. It's just a difficult thing to do in our cars without jumping through hoops and adding a lot of weight. Deadening the doors really helps with the sound, the midbass especially. This, in turn, causes the door cards to vibrate even more, but that can be dealt with as you saw.

 

how did you secure your amp racks to the spare wheel well? I'm looking to do something real similar becuase I hate the positioning of my amp right now.

 

Industrial strength Velcro. You can ground the amp to the SSL sub bracket that already comes with a threaded hole. Run a bolt through it and you're all set.

As a side note, the carpeting in our cars responds amazingly to hook and loop material (ie. Velcro). It's as if it's purposefully made to work with it.

 

Where would the sub bracket be? Would there be a hole if you have a non SSL?

 

After you take-off the spare tire cover, look on the right side of the trunk ~2/3 toward the back. It's the only bracket there. You can see it in the pic.

Yes.