I have managed to upgrade to SSL sub to an after market sub with out cutting the factory harness what so ever. This is a basic how to if any of you guys are interested.

Basically when you remove your factory sub from the box it has a connection to the back of the sub. Well lucky for us its basically just spade connectors pushed into a plastic case which was intended to be switched out if damaged since it has a open and close tab.

After you remove the two spade connectors from said clip by pushing in the tab and pulling the wires out its pretty simple.

This is the sub wire that gets plugged into the body harness.


This is the other side of that same harness. I have added male spade connectors and some wire so it can be connected to the standard sub box.



Basically i used about 6 inches of speaker wire because i didn't need that much room and i didn't want it to look sloppy.


This is the image of the whole set up.


This is the whole thing plugged into the body harness.



Went to Home Depot and picked these up for like 4 bux.


And had some screws laying around already.


Pretty much everything you need to install this is a drill crimps wire cutters spade connectors (male) and some speaker wire.


I started taking off the interior its all push pined based i think its like a total of maybe 8 or 9 pushpins and pops.


Decided where i would mount the brackets mind you this is temp ill probably go in and hide them a little better. (although u cant see them as it is)
This is the top right corner:


This is the back of the bottom left corner:


Remember to leave a little bit of gap for the covers to go back on.


I opted for a small truck box because i didn't want crazy bump just a little bit with a 2 inch port in the back and this is a 10 inch infinity.

Mounted with the top flush and the bottom has enough room for the port to do its job.


Here is a picture of the harness run from behind the box.


And the finished product.



The good thing about this set up is I didn't have to drill into the cardboard spare tire cover so I can still access that easily. For race days its only 3 screws and a clip I need to remove for this sub to come out. Its 100% reversible and it works with factory amp radio and speakers. Now of course you can upgrade your amp to get more bump but ill take on that task later. My next goal is to build an extension for the factory box so I can put a 10 in that and have it look all original. =) hope this helps some of you guys.

 

good work...hows the new sub bumpin?

 

I dig it, hits a lot harder than the factory 8 and its not over the top crazy and I still have plenty of trunk space!

 

I did the same thing but with a different sub and a ported enclosure and was able to use factory bracket to mount the sub https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...n-ssl-sub.html it sounds good! pics are on page 2.

 

If you guys are going to replace the SSL enclosure, completely, consider this combo:

Enclosure:
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=260-628

Driver:
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...PCwb_1000.aspx

Here's why: the sub's (enclosure+driver) response is +/- 3dB inside an Evolution, it's light, and relatively small. The sub is sensitive enough to drive with a clock radio, so there's no need for a big, heavy amp with an equally big current draw. Sonically, its articulation and definition are good enough to replace an IDQ12V2 that served as an automotive reference for 4 years, and it'll punch you in the chest like a Thai kickboxer, if that's what you want.

...just something to consider. If you're replacing the whole thing, might as well make it an upgrade in every sense of the word for not a lot of money.

 

This is temp. I mentioned that it is 100% reversible because it is. i just didn't want to be driving around with a blown sub till i can get mine warranted out. I will go back to stock as soon as i can make a trip to the dealer. But in the mean time i have a sound thats better than stock for almost no money. Now the box and sub u showed me look good and what not but why wouldn't i need an amp for that one? Im going to back taking my seat out this weekend and using a amp that a buddy gave me to see if i can throw that in with out any cutting of the harness may or may not work wont know for sure till i pull it all apart.

 

I ported my box in the rear and it sounds pretty impressive if I say so myself.

 

thanks for the info fjf If i woud have known this before I was going to decide to screw the ssl box and build an enclosure I would have tried this setup, but I bought an 8" aftermarket infinity thinking it wouldn't be to hard to fab it into the box! quickly realized it wasent worth it (would have been a pain to keep it sealed) and just built a ported box. all in all I an happy with it!

 

YES! ported enclosures= great efficiency! not the tightest bass in the world but not bad

 

my friend wants to give me his comp bandpass box for 30 bones but i think its to big and id deff need an amp upgrade to utilize it to its abilities. however 30 bux is a steal lol

 

Did you just cut a hole in the enclosure, or did you calculate the size/length of the port per the desired (tuning) frequency?

 

I had a friend who does audio and custom boxes for a living calculate everything for me i was just going to cut a hole but when i asked him he said its a formula that u have to use to get the best sound.

 

So what did you do?

 

Everything but cut the hole in the box.

 

Sorry, I was asking about the port. What size and length did you end up with? Say you have 3" port tuned to 45Hz. Given the working constraints, it would need to be ~17" long. Clearly, such a port would have to be situated outside the enclosure, that's why I'm asking. Typically, ported enclosures are considerably larger than sealed boxes. The smaller the box, the longer the port, all things staying equal.