Meh. Works just fine for me.


The individual that installed mine said the same thing.

 

We talked about this earlier in the thread. Rogue didn't want to remove the door card.

It's amazing anyone would actually argue against using upgraded wiring with a bigger amplifier. I don't even know what your comment means in this context.

You said, "He was able to listen to each speaker individually with a "test track" ? and figured it out." This is what's so frustrating about this thread. There's a new story in every post.

 

Said not did.

Guess you have a hard time following.

Its ok.


As for the wire - cost significantly more -- wasn't interested in what little gain there would have been to me.

 

What are you talking about? Really. What does the text above actually mean?

Seriously? You know for sure there are at least three people in this thread who know a lot more about this than you do. What makes you think that you can post something so ridiculous and have those folks believe you? This pretty much sums-up the entire thread.

 

You must of got you *** kicked a lot as a kid - your god damn annoying, but i'll break it down for you one last time


The cost for the wire install -- was not worth it for me? Why are you still rocking a stock turbo? Why dont you upgrate to ___________? Its way better... blah blah blah.

As for the testing of the speakers - he SAID you could use a 9volt battery - and watch the cone. But as he didnt remove the door panels - it was easier just to listen to the pair with the test track.

Is that simplified enough for you? Or do you need a crayon drawn picture?

 

Yes, you're the authority here.

There's an electrical reason to upgrade the wiring; the amp's current draw. It's a not a some ricer stock vs aftermarket parts thingy, as you seem to imply.

Wait, now he listened to the pair? We went over this and now you have a factoid to post out of nowhere. Oh, wait, it wasn't out of nowhere. I was the one who told you that how it was done. An answer for everything.

It was simple after the first couple of posts. You're not an honest individual.

 

u can see which way the door speakers are moving my just shining a light threw the speaker grills. never have to remove the door

 

lol

 

On an Evo with stock speakers? I just tried doing exactly as you suggested. Used a 200-lumen tactical flashlight. Yes, one can see the speaker. If you can be 100% as to its excursion, you're a better man than I. Maybe with a smaller aftermarket driver whose circumference is smaller than the inner speaker guide molded into the doorcard.

 

To bad you arent local.

 

well, i own a stereo shop and have been installing for over 10 years. i guess its something you get good at after the years go by. lol i use just my single led pen light. now it doest work it all cars but most. but i will say, in our cars, dealing with a off axis front setup. mine sounds much better with the tweeters out of phaze, gives me a much wider soundstage

 

IIRC, the tweeters in the (basic) factory system are wired out of phase; it may be the same with the SSL. It does give an illusion of a wider soundstage.

 

Ahh, no wonder - I think. Now I'm paraniod and have to go back through mys sound system wiring again, because of this thread. I want to say both my Eclipse and the Evo were out of phase (My Eclipse came with an SSL style stock setup) and I think both of them were wired out of phase by my installer.

 

Without yanking the door panels off and unplugging the wire from the speaker then using a multimeter from there to check for continuity at the amp wiring harness, you could always try calling Crutchfield or the car audio shop at BestBuy or something. They may be able to tell you the wire's color codes and schematics.

That said, OEM wiring sucks *** and you should just run all new thicker guage wire directly from your amp to your speakers. If you are wiring it yourself, ALWAYS follow a standard. All the name brand wire is coded so that one of the 2 in a pair has a marking on it. I always plug the striped into the positive terminal, and solid into the negative terminal so I never mess it up.

Left and right speakers (and usually front and back) that are out of phase can cancel each other's sound out and sound like crap or be much quieter than they should be.
-Interesting to hear about the tweeters being wired out of phase from the mids on OEM though.

Thicker guage wire is ALWAYS the way to go. Your system will sound better and louder with less power and less distortion.

 

SpiderX did you ever find a wiring diagram?

This might help:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...d-oem-amp.html

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/la...ystem-nav.html

Also, this info is for the non RF system, but may be of some help:
http://www. (theotherevoforum) /foru...ead.php?t=3855