JL W6v2 Sub Cuts out at High Base & Voltage Drop
Thread Starter
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Joined: Apr 2007
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From: Irvine, CA
The voltage drop is most likely due to the fact that the amp is drawing a lot of current to try to make the power you're demanding. If you are running 4awg or larger wire that is good but there is no mention of your ground wire.
Any high currentsystem I install (80amp or more) I run a battery ground to the amp(s). If you are starring the circuit at the battery you must finish it at the battery. Don't rely on a chasis ground to complete that high current circuit.
Also, make sure you are using 100% copper not cca(copper coated alluminum) as inferior wire will not conduct well and will heat up faster and in the end create more resistance. The more heat and resistence = less efficient. Check your wiring and if it says 4awg that means American wire Guage. If it just says 4ga or gauge spelt out its not true 4 gauge.
Also may want to look into an alternator upgrade because mitsu didn't anticipate you adding 100amps of current to the stock charging system.
Hope this helps
Any high currentsystem I install (80amp or more) I run a battery ground to the amp(s). If you are starring the circuit at the battery you must finish it at the battery. Don't rely on a chasis ground to complete that high current circuit.
Also, make sure you are using 100% copper not cca(copper coated alluminum) as inferior wire will not conduct well and will heat up faster and in the end create more resistance. The more heat and resistence = less efficient. Check your wiring and if it says 4awg that means American wire Guage. If it just says 4ga or gauge spelt out its not true 4 gauge.
Also may want to look into an alternator upgrade because mitsu didn't anticipate you adding 100amps of current to the stock charging system.
Hope this helps
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 92
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From: Irvine, CA
My point exactly!!, Listen to youself! Who cares about grammar or punctuation, do you put it on your bread every morning? Your avery joe doesnt give a crap! As long as the point gets across. Why dont you get a PHD in that! It will make you feel better at least for a few days!
You mean you spent thousands on gear, had it professionally installed, went back to have the staff troubleshoot the issue and no one looked at the wire?
I've tried to help you, but you can't seem to answer fairly simple questions that could help us diagnose the issue. The process is systematic. You seem to be looking for a quick answer. OK, here's a quick answer: Dump the sub and the amp, buy gear better suited for your purpose - make sure you understand how sensitivity and current draw relate to this, and wire the sub for a higher value - then enjoy your stereo. Don't want to buy new gear? Fine, rewire the sub for 8 Ohms. You seem to have chosen the gear, because it's supposed to be "the best," with no regard for the actual mission of a system. That's not how this works.
I've tried to help you, but you can't seem to answer fairly simple questions that could help us diagnose the issue. The process is systematic. You seem to be looking for a quick answer. OK, here's a quick answer: Dump the sub and the amp, buy gear better suited for your purpose - make sure you understand how sensitivity and current draw relate to this, and wire the sub for a higher value - then enjoy your stereo. Don't want to buy new gear? Fine, rewire the sub for 8 Ohms. You seem to have chosen the gear, because it's supposed to be "the best," with no regard for the actual mission of a system. That's not how this works.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 92
Likes: 0
From: Irvine, CA
You mean you spent thousands on gear, had it professionally installed, went back to have the staff troubleshoot the issue and no one looked at the wire?
I've tried to help you, but you can't seem to answer fairly simple questions that could help us diagnose the issue. The process is systematic. You seem to be looking for a quick answer. OK, here's a quick answer: Dump the sub and the amp, buy gear better suited for your purpose - make sure you understand how sensitivity and current draw relate to this, and wire the sub for a higher value - then enjoy your stereo. Don't want to buy new gear? Fine, rewire the sub for 8 Ohms. You seem to have chosen the gear, because it's supposed to be "the best," with no regard for the actual mission of a system. That's not how this works.
I've tried to help you, but you can't seem to answer fairly simple questions that could help us diagnose the issue. The process is systematic. You seem to be looking for a quick answer. OK, here's a quick answer: Dump the sub and the amp, buy gear better suited for your purpose - make sure you understand how sensitivity and current draw relate to this, and wire the sub for a higher value - then enjoy your stereo. Don't want to buy new gear? Fine, rewire the sub for 8 Ohms. You seem to have chosen the gear, because it's supposed to be "the best," with no regard for the actual mission of a system. That's not how this works.
Well he did most things right, got his 6 grand and did a half *** job in actually installing. I am contemplating about to just take all this high end crap out and put it out to the highest bidder, it works great besides the wiring done wrong by "high end installer" that i cannot trust anymore. Really These $800 Focal speakers and $500 amps and sub are useless unless done right that what is really pissing me off about the industry is that no one can do it right unless they got a degree in electric engineering. years ago before the age of Amps and Subs and components and all that high end nonsense there were speakers and radios. I wired 4 speakers to a radio and I was happy! Now its beyond insane complicated with all the variables!
I dont expect a quick answer, I am sure this will take a while to figure out
Last edited by futureal; Jan 28, 2012 at 09:01 AM.
you're absolutely right, I had no idea what I was doing and I am a man enough to admit it. The issue here is that about what, 6 years ago I went to a high end installer in Bedford Hills, New York. I trusted the guy had experience and will do things right I told him which head unit I wanted and he suggested amp & sub.
Well he did most things right, got his 6 grand and did a half *** job in actually installing. I am contemplating about to just take all this high end crap out and put it out to the highest bidder, it works great besides the wiring done wrong by "high end installer" that i cannot trust anymore. Really These $800 Focal speakers and $500 amps and sub are useless unless done right that what is really pissing me off about the industry is that no one can do it right unless they got a degree in electric engineering. years ago before the age of Amps and Subs and components and all that high end nonsense there were speakers and radios. I wired 4 speakers to a radio and I was happy! Now its beyond insane complicated with all the variables!
Well he did most things right, got his 6 grand and did a half *** job in actually installing. I am contemplating about to just take all this high end crap out and put it out to the highest bidder, it works great besides the wiring done wrong by "high end installer" that i cannot trust anymore. Really These $800 Focal speakers and $500 amps and sub are useless unless done right that what is really pissing me off about the industry is that no one can do it right unless they got a degree in electric engineering. years ago before the age of Amps and Subs and components and all that high end nonsense there were speakers and radios. I wired 4 speakers to a radio and I was happy! Now its beyond insane complicated with all the variables!
A likely quick fix is to rewire your sub for 8 Ohms. Look at the wiring diagram posted earlier, unscrew the driver from the enclosure and change the positions of the wires, reinstall and you're done. You may have to adjust the gain setting on the amplifier, as well, to match its current level.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 92
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From: Irvine, CA
Fair enough. The Evo, even stock, is difficult car for audio. I found that out, myself, when I tied using conventional means to achieve decent sound quality (keep in mind that I'm an audio guy with some 30+ years of experience). The problem is exaggerated greatly when a car audio person enters the picture, as car audio as an industry doesn't really care about audio nor does it promote any kind of aural expertise on an aggregate level. Let me give you an institutionalized example that relates directly to your issue: Wire the sub for the lowest value. Why do they do that? Because, if an amp is rated at 200 watts into 4 Ohms and 300 watts into 2 Ohms, then 2 Ohms must be better. NO! Why? Because, no amplifier is a perfect voltage source.
A likely quick fix is to rewire your sub for 8 Ohms. Look at the wiring diagram posted earlier, unscrew the driver from the enclosure and change the positions of the wires, reinstall and you're done. You may have to adjust the gain setting on the amplifier, as well, to match its current level.
A likely quick fix is to rewire your sub for 8 Ohms. Look at the wiring diagram posted earlier, unscrew the driver from the enclosure and change the positions of the wires, reinstall and you're done. You may have to adjust the gain setting on the amplifier, as well, to match its current level.
Chances are you are going to need the Optima still... Most people over look the charging system when doing a stereo and your installer was focused on getting you good product but didn't think it through to the install.
The alpine pdx amps and jl slash series amps have a lot of technology implemented in them to make them great but it all boils down to the charging system and supply/demand.
If you were closer I'd take a look at it for you. I am a government certified installer with 12yrs experience and sometimes you just need another set of eyes to see something small.
I'm also an authorized jl audio dealer, the only authorized dealer in the Niagara peninsula (Canadian side).... Call me at gibbyselectronicsupermarket.ca if you need help. 1-877-761-6354 (ask for Nick)
The alpine pdx amps and jl slash series amps have a lot of technology implemented in them to make them great but it all boils down to the charging system and supply/demand.
If you were closer I'd take a look at it for you. I am a government certified installer with 12yrs experience and sometimes you just need another set of eyes to see something small.
I'm also an authorized jl audio dealer, the only authorized dealer in the Niagara peninsula (Canadian side).... Call me at gibbyselectronicsupermarket.ca if you need help. 1-877-761-6354 (ask for Nick)
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 92
Likes: 0
From: Irvine, CA
Chances are you are going to need the Optima still... Most people over look the charging system when doing a stereo and your installer was focused on getting you good product but didn't think it through to the install.
The alpine pdx amps and jl slash series amps have a lot of technology implemented in them to make them great but it all boils down to the charging system and supply/demand.
If you were closer I'd take a look at it for you. I am a government certified installer with 12yrs experience and sometimes you just need another set of eyes to see something small.
I'm also an authorized jl audio dealer, the only authorized dealer in the Niagara peninsula (Canadian side).... Call me at gibbyselectronicsupermarket.ca if you need help. 1-877-761-6354 (ask for Nick)
The alpine pdx amps and jl slash series amps have a lot of technology implemented in them to make them great but it all boils down to the charging system and supply/demand.
If you were closer I'd take a look at it for you. I am a government certified installer with 12yrs experience and sometimes you just need another set of eyes to see something small.
I'm also an authorized jl audio dealer, the only authorized dealer in the Niagara peninsula (Canadian side).... Call me at gibbyselectronicsupermarket.ca if you need help. 1-877-761-6354 (ask for Nick)
PROBLEM FIXED!
I went from dual 2ohm @ 4ohm Setup
I set jumpers to this dual 4ohm = 8ohm setup
I am now able to increase head unit volume to the maximum and set bass to 6 (max on Avic Z2) with Super Bass on EQ. and Loudness at High.
I just cranked it up to the point my eardrums were ringing and sub woofer handled everything like a champ! Alpine 1.600 amp is running fine. Voltage is Ok, although lights are dimming - runs between 12.5 and 14. I hope I didn't wake up anyone taking an afternoon Saturday nap in Northern California area.
I printed out manuals for my Focal K2 Power components to learn crossover adjustments, also Alpine and JL manuals to adjust everything. I noticed several things were set incorrect by installer. Alpine PDX 1.600 Subsonic filter mode switch was at 30hz (speaker connection) which it should have been at 15hz (Sub Connected) as per manual.
This is crazy I am going to call the owner of this joint Sound Concepts in Bedford Hills, NY on Monday and give him hell I ve been driving with wrong setup since 2007. I give him credit for trying to fix this, he replaced the Alpine amp for free, but obviously problem was elsewhere.
Last edited by futureal; Jan 28, 2012 at 01:30 PM.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 92
Likes: 0
From: Irvine, CA
Fair enough. The Evo, even stock, is difficult car for audio. I found that out, myself, when I tied using conventional means to achieve decent sound quality (keep in mind that I'm an audio guy with some 30+ years of experience). The problem is exaggerated greatly when a car audio person enters the picture, as car audio as an industry doesn't really care about audio nor does it promote any kind of aural expertise on an aggregate level. Let me give you an institutionalized example that relates directly to your issue: Wire the sub for the lowest value. Why do they do that? Because, if an amp is rated at 200 watts into 4 Ohms and 300 watts into 2 Ohms, then 2 Ohms must be better. NO! Why? Because, no amplifier is a perfect voltage source.
A likely quick fix is to rewire your sub for 8 Ohms. Look at the wiring diagram posted earlier, unscrew the driver from the enclosure and change the positions of the wires, reinstall and you're done. You may have to adjust the gain setting on the amplifier, as well, to match its current level.
A likely quick fix is to rewire your sub for 8 Ohms. Look at the wiring diagram posted earlier, unscrew the driver from the enclosure and change the positions of the wires, reinstall and you're done. You may have to adjust the gain setting on the amplifier, as well, to match its current level.
A capacitor will not solve your light dimming issues.... A cap is 70% filter and 30% storage. It will help with voltage fluctuations but will not store enough power to help the system AND your alternator will still have to supply power to it.
Best investment is going to be alternator upgrade or power cell/dry cell/agm battery - however you want slice it.
Kinetik's HC600 is smaller than a Honda civic battery, will start a small block v8, and is equivalent to a 100 farad capacitor.
Hope this helps.
Best investment is going to be alternator upgrade or power cell/dry cell/agm battery - however you want slice it.
Kinetik's HC600 is smaller than a Honda civic battery, will start a small block v8, and is equivalent to a 100 farad capacitor.
Hope this helps.
I'd leave it at 30Hz. Honestly, neither value will make an audible difference in the system's response, but the 30Hz setting may save your amp from wasting power.