If you could please leave a comment(s) and a 1 to 10 scale on the double pumper wiring with rewire kit I would greatly appreciate it.
Modified sending unit cover for fuel pump harness.

Fuel pump rewire kit installed

All grounds located to rear seat mount

Power wires for double pumper. Drilled through throttle cable grommet.

Routed second fuel pump wire through firewall.

 

your going to want to put a grommet on that wire passing through the hole you drilled through the firewall.

 

Well I guess if it works that's all that matters. But me, I would have cut holes for the plate and used grommets, instead of cutting up the plate like that. And where you used butt connectors I would have used heat shrink over them to help with any moisture contamination chances.

Definitely needs a grommet at the firewall.

And since I'm **** about stuff, would have used the correct size eye connectors for the wire size, and again been sealed. And zip ties or some other type fasteners to keep everything from moving and looking neat and tidy.

When I do wiring I want it to look like it belongs there, not like something that was added.

Won't take much to get yours looking good.

 

Thanks for the input. I agree about making wires look like they belong there.


I did not do this wiring. A shop did the work which looks like someone inexperienced or pressed for time did the work. I am looking into ways to clean it up because right now Its kind of depressing.

 

those 2 wires going into the engine compartment have fuses on them before they connect to the battery right?

My guess on the wiring job is that electrical is not that shops primary focus. I've seen worse, but I've also seen a lot better.

 

What pumps are you running, and if you know it, how much current do they draw (amps)?

My advice:

Remove the 2 power wires going into the engine compartment and replace them with a single lower gauge wire with fuse holder. Enlarge the already drilled hole in the firewall for the bigger wire and use the proper grommet to protect the wire from the metal. Do something to seal up the throttle cable grommet (RTV or something), or replace it. Use a distribution block w/fuses to break down that larger cable into 2 smaller cables just before your relays. Replace the access hatch over your fuel pumps with a new one and new seal. Rerun the power wires with the factory fuel tank/pump harness, through the factory grommet (punch a hole) which is located under the carpet right rear of the cabin. Then follow the factory harness around the fuel tank up to the top of the fuel pump housing. Dress the cables with split tubing wrapped in a weather resistant electrical tape, and use small zip ties to secure your new harness every location the factory harness is secured as well as any other additional places you see fit.

This is how I would and have done it.

 

I am running two aeromotive 340 pumps which I believe each run 30 amps. The wire is 10 GA and was told that GA is too small for when both pumps kick on considering its about 10-14 ft of wiring.

I really don't like the spot they drilled on the firewall and they tore up my insulation as you can see. I might try to put a plug or a black dot sticker over the hole and find a better/cleaner spot.

Thanks for the suggestions, I will keep those in mind.

 

OP, I agree with your analysis that the shop had someone inexperience run these wires.

I'd also agree with Biggiesacks suggestions above. The idea of course is to provide the highest amount of voltage possible at the pump at all times(Battery terminal voltage) if you are going the normal hard wire route.

I would actually use that big 4 gauge wire you have already run for your amplifier to power the fuel pump. You have it terminating at a distribution block correct? Use that as your source and upgrade the inline fuse.

The thinner the wire, the more resistance. The longer the wire, the more resistance. The warmer the wire gets, the more resistance there is. And finally, the thinner a wire is, the more likely it is to get hot, which again causes resistance.

 

Man sorry to hear a shop did this. That's a butcher job. Shame you are going to have to redo it, but at least it will be done right this time. Places like that give the rest of us, who do the job right, a bad name.

If I paid a shop and this is what they gave me back I would not be a happy camper and there would be quite a discussion about not paying for it.

Anywho, we just scrapped our old 9, I might have saved those covers from it. May take a bit as we have parts scattered in two different garages. If I can find it, it's yours.