DIY: Viper 5701 Install on CT9A
 

I thought this might be useful to some people interested in installing vipers new 5701 alarm.

http://www.drdetailshop.com/Viper5701Boxmed.gif

What I like about this alarm system
2 remotes - Super slim design (One 5-Button 2-way, One 5-Button 1-way)
Antenna with Integrated LED and Switch
SilentMode2 Sirenless Modes
Virtual Tach
Defroster Output w/ Dedicated Channel
Smart Start (start car based on temp/timer/voltage)
Auto Temp Display on Remote
Cabin Temperature Request
Onboard Shock Sensor (shock sensor is inside main unit Stinger DoubleGuard )
4 Aux Outputs
2,000 feet FCC legal 2-way range

The best thing about this is the protection it provides for remote starting the vehicle. It has a very good check system to make sure the car is in neutral before going into the remote start mode. The only way to have it remote start is if someone sneaks into your vehicle without triggering the alarm and physically leaves it in gear. Or if you leave someone in the vehicle while arming and they put it in gear.

Additional Items needed for purchase
-SPDT Relay with socket harness

Okay now onto the wiring...
- Unlike previous viper models the heavy guage ignition harness is a little bit trickier due to the flex relay added into this unit, but just follow my ignition wiring below and you should be okay.
- If you open the compartment inside the brain unit you see that there is a spot for a 10amp mini bus fuse. This has to be hooked up for a positive polarity pg.55 of install manual

The ignition wires consist of these wires
Function ------- polarity----------------Vehicle Wire
Constant------------ + -------------------- white
Ignition-------------- + -------------------- blk/wht
Accessory----------- + --------------------- blu/wht
Accessory 2--------- + ---------------------- blu/blk
Starter--------------- + ---------------------- blk/yel


Harness #3 all located in ignition black plug
Function--------------------------------------- alarm wire---------------------vehicle wire
(+)Ignition 1Input/ouput ----------------------- pink -------------------------- blk/wht
(30a Fused Igntion 2/ Flex relay Input 87--- red/wht------------------------- wht
Accessory Output----------------------------------orange--------------------------blu/wht
(+) Starter Output (car side starter kill wire)---violet--------------------------blk/yel (S)
(+) Starter Input (key side starter Kill wire)---green-------------------------blk/yel (k)
(+)fused(30a) Ignition Input-----------------------red----------------------------wht
(+)Ignition 2/Flex Relay Output-------------------pnk/wht----------------------blu/blk
Flex Relay input 87a key side(if req) of Flx Relay--pink/blk-------------------not connected
Fused (30A) Accessory/Starter Input---------------red/blk---------------------wht


Harness #1
Function--------------------------------------- alarm wire---------------------vehicle wire--------------------location
Trunk release for after market solenoid----RED/WHITE----------------------need to wire to relay for aftermarket solenoid
power for alarm system------------------------RED------------------------------wht------------------------------ign harness
siren output-------------------------------------BROWN-------------------------red wire on siren---------------siren lead
not used --------------------------------------- WHITE/BROWN----------------not used--------------------------not used
alarm ground ----------------------------------BLACK---------------------------chasis------------------------------ground
not used ----------------------------------VIOLET--------------------------not used--------------------------not used
trunk trigger -----------------------------------BLUE-----------------------------green/orange------------------trunk
Door Trigger Input ---------------------------Green-----------------------------blue-------------------------------Instrument cluster Blue plug
DOME LIGHT OUTPUT------------------------BLACK/WHITE -------------------?------------------------------------?
not used -------------------------------------- WHITE/BLUE ---------------------not used-------------------------not used
PARKING LIGHT OUTPUT---------------------WHITE----------------------------green/white----------------------door kick panel
not used ---------------------------------------ORANGE--------------------------not used--------------------------not used

Harness #2
not used

Door Lock Harness
Function--------------------------------------- alarm wire---------------------vehicle wire--------------------location
UNLOCK OUTPUT---------------------------------Blue-----------------------------light green --------------------door kick panel
LOCK OUTPUT-------------------------------------Green--------------------------violet ---------------------------door kick panel

Remote Start Input
Function--------------------------------------- alarm wire---------------------vehicle wire--------------------location
NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH INPUT--------------BLACK/WHITE---------------Blue/Red-------------------------Instrument cluster blue plug
TACHOMETER INPUT WIRE----------------------VIOLET/WHITE--------------Green----------------------------Instrument cluster white plug
BRAKE SHUTDOWN WIRE ---------------------- BROWN------------------------ Green-------------------------Door Kick Panel
HOOD PIN SWITCH INPUT --------------------- GRAY --------------------------Lead from Hood Pin --------Installed hood Pin switch in Hood
REAR DEFOGGER -------------------------------- BLUE/WHITE -----------------White/Black------------------Climate control plug at switch

Remote Start Ouput
Function--------------------------------------- alarm wire---------------------vehicle wire--------------------location
not used -----------------------------------------PINK/WHITE--------------------not used------------------------not used
not used -----------------------------------------ORANGE-------------------------not used------------------------not used
Output to clutch bypass ----------------------VIOLET--------------------------clutch switch behind clutch pedal (must be hooked to SPDT relay)
not used -----------------------------------------PINK -----------------------------not used-----------------------not used
not used -----------------------------------------BLUE -----------------------------not used-----------------------not used


When splicing wires, In my opinion this is the best way to do it.
http://www.mmxpress.com/technical/images/14.gif
Then split the wire threading through the loop and wrap it around the corresponding side fo the split wire, solder then high quality electrical tape.
....will update later with remaining instructions

Remote Start Input
Function--------------------------------------- alarm wire---------------------vehicle wire--------------------location
NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH INPUT--------------BLACK/WHITE---------------Blue/Red-------------------------Instrument cluster blue plug

This actually exists/functions in an evo?

Its actually linked to the hand brake.. Its part of the signal input that needs to be recieved in order for the remote start sequence to start. Place foot on brake, apply hand brake, release foot from brake, press rs button, open door, close door, then arm the vehicle. This is a way the system knows your vehicle is in neutral and enables the rs when the button is pressed. Any type of full trigger will disable the rs activity. As well as disarming then opening the door.. Pretty failsafe..

Yeah, I was hoping to get around all that and just use an NSS. I leave the car in neutral anyways, I was just wanting a backup incase it wasn't in neutral for whatever reason.

What does it sound like, does it sound like the alarm system on a super car?

^^ just the standard tone on all DEI alarms.. I bought it more for the remote start safety feature..

johnjonfenomeno,

On a scale of 1-10, how would to rate ease of install of the 5701?

If you follow the above mentioned wire by wire guide .. its a walk in the park .. Ive done the figuring out for you.. Shops charge 700 installed for this. Go on ebay and get one for 250 shipped. Then follow the above

Sounds good! Thanks 4 your time and info!

Might I add, One thing I did not have to do was get an immobilizer bypass (DEI 556U) since i used a standalone ecu. If you are still on the stock ECU you will need this along with a spare key.

This alarm is the best investment I've made to my Evo. Good choice!

If you're on the stock ecu, you can get a pku-mit and you don't need to sacrifice a second key. You do need to have both keys to program it though, at least that's what the instructions say. It runs about $40 from what I've seen.

...

Yes DEI changed their programming with it.. The alarm can be set in manual or auto mode.. If in manual mode the alarm will use this as a part of the input in its neutral safety check sequence..{thumbup}

Question about the install: How were you taping into the factory wires? Solder or plastic taps? lastly, where did hide the alarm brain?

I used the threading method to tap. And then high quality electrical tape. As for brain location that's your call. I will not disclose where mine is hidden.

Definitely solder. There's nothing that screams alarm like a bunch of Ttaps. If you take the time and do it right you can make it look like stock wiring with solder/tape.

There's plenty of room in the dash to put the brain pretty much where ever you want.

i have a couple of questions...1) the wiring diagram for an evo is the same as a reg lancer right? 2) also im a little unsure how to install my backup battery how should i run the wiring?

Yes the wiring should be pretty close to the same. I imagine the backup battery depends on what type of alarm you have. Did it come with instructions?

yes it did and i figured it out =D....so im almost finish installing my 5701 alarm...one more thing...in harness #3 there are three wires that im confused on, the red, red/white, red/black...do all three go to the same white wire?

Yes. The constant 12v wire (white) in the ignition harness (or wherever you decide to get 12v constant).

Anyone know if this alarm will still work with a turbo timer?

Nice DIY!
I will check the employee price in Best Buy this week:)

it has its own TT but it should not interfere with one you have if you splice your tt wires with the factories

Why do you need a spare key? By the way, nice write up! This should be STICKY on the HOW TO'S

I know I'm bring this back from the dead but I need help.

"
Harness #3 all located in ignition black plug
Function--------------------------------------- alarm wire---------------------vehicle wire
(+)Ignition 1Input/ouput ----------------------- pink -------------------------- blk/wht
(30a Fused Igntion 2/ Flex relay Input 87--- red/wht------------------------- wht
Accessory Output----------------------------------orange--------------------------blu/wht
(+) Starter Output (car side starter kill wire)---violet--------------------------blk/yel (S)
(+) Starter Input (key side starter Kill wire)---green-------------------------blk/yel (k)
(+)fused(30a) Ignition Input-----------------------red----------------------------wht
(+)Ignition 2/Flex Relay Output-------------------pnk/wht----------------------blu/blk
Flex Relay input 87a key side(if req) of Flx Relay--pink/blk-------------------not connected
Fused (30A) Accessory/Starter Input---------------red/blk---------------------wht


On the part where it shows vehicle wires. Is that all on the Ing harness? If im correct then 3 of the harness wires tap/solider into the white ing wire which is a 12+ constant.

the best and most reliable is gonna be solder, then electrical tape, with a zip tie holding the tape.. cuz we all know how electrical tape gets over time..haha. ive been a car audion installer for years and that how i do it it prevent failures

if i remember correctly it has a turbo timer feature built in... most DEI alarm/starter combos do

Yes and yes

Oh yea. For the violet and green wire on the alarm side. It says. I'm suppose to tap closer to the key side and closer to the engine side for the starter wire. If I'm not mistaken. I'm suppse to cut it? Then splice/solider into it.

Yes cut it. Car side to the violet wire, key side to the green wire.

ok last question. How do I setup to lock it while my aftermarket turbo timer is running? And for the hood pin. Do I have to use it for the remote start or can I just ground it?

you don't want to ground the hood pin.. It's a negative trigger meaning leave it open. As far as your aftermarket timer.. I would just use the one provided by the alarm.

So I can just close it off then huh? and my remote start should work. Pending if I did the Tach learn already?

what is this for?

"Accessory Output----------------------------------orange--------------------------blu/wht"


Do I need to hook this up?

Yes, just tape up the hood pin wire. As long as there's nothing else preventing the car from starting it should work.

The accessory output is what will power your heater/fan and whatever else happens to be powered from that wire. It's not required to be hooked up for the RS to work, but it kinda defeats the purpose if you don't.

pm me if you need a viper remote start or security system very competitive price on a few i have laying around....

Thanks,
-Dan

Oh sweet! ill try this out when theres light out. My car was apart for 2 days now and I want to drive it :(....but riding my gsxr 750 lately and man has it been cold. Anyways Thanks man. Oh yea im still wanting to know how to setup the alarm to arm when my aftermarket turbo timer is still running. Someone said they know how to do it

can beat the 155$ brand new viper 5701 that I got {thumbup} at least i hope not:D

oh yea totaly forgot. I cant seem to get my parking lights flash to work. On my car its "Parking Lamp Green/White (+) at relay or fuse block (#5)"

So I taped into the green/white wire under my driver side kick panel and I get 11 volts when I turn on my parking lights. I tried to do that fuse things on the RA unit(theres only two ways I can do I can change the polarity if im not mistaken) And I still get nothing?!?!

can't believe this aint a sticky yet? .. I write this kick ass how to .. i think I deserve a sticky

I will soon edit the original post with pics on accesory installation such as garage door opener using the 5701 , trunk release kit installation and other cool stuff you can do with this alarm.

I used it to power my rear defroster.. but being your in 5-0 i dont think it would be of use.

John....do you know how to fix the parking lights to come on when armed and disarmed? oh yea...im using the (+) on the parking lights. dont know if that helps

- If you open the compartment inside the brain unit you see that there is a spot for a 10amp mini bus fuse. This has to be hooked up for a positive polarity pg.55 of install manual

I believe you have to set the polarity in the brain. I had a similar problem and that seemed to solve it.

Make sure the bus fuse is inserted all the way in

WHERE DO I GET THAT REMOTE?!?!? i wonder if it would work with the older style systems?

I did both but none seem to work. But I'll try it again when I get home. Thanks. Is there a wire in which tell the module that the car has been turned off and can be ready to be armed?

That is the only thing i can think of that controls the parking light. Check to make sure the fuse is still good. I remember it being a really tight fit.

Im assuming you mean the turbo timer feature?

If you are in turbo timer mode the car will be armed and still running. To enter turbo timer mode, go through the manual start procedure, footbrak,handbrake,footbrake release, then open your door, hit "F" 2x, then the autostart sequence. You will see that upon arming the vehicle it will still be running for whatever length you specified on timer mode. I think I have mine set for 3 minutes.

see the thing is I have an aftermarket turbotimer. Hey man I was wondering If you can do me a HUGE favor! Can you do a write up on my car. Its a 1997 mitsubishi eclipse gsx 5 speed. I cant seem to get my door trigger to work either. Im using the wire that gives off a + feed when open. I believe. I did. If you have time that will be DA BOMB! thanks john

Door triggers are pretty much always negative. This is for your eclipse. Sorry it's hard to read, I just copied and pasted.

Constant 12V+ White Ignition Switch Harness
Starter Black/Red Ignition Switch Harness
Ignition Black/White Ignition Switch Harness
Ignition 2 Blue Ignition Switch Harness
Accessory Blue/Black Ignition Switch Harness
Tach Black/Blue Or Blue/Black Coil Pack 2 Cylinder Setting
Neutral Safety Wire Black/White (-) PCM behind Center Console
Brake Switch Green Brake Switch
Trunk Pin Red/Green Driver's Running Board
Parking Lights Green/White (+) Driver's Kick Panel or Fuse Panel
Head Lamp Red (-) Light Switch
Factory Disarm Red/Green (-) ECU Passenger's Kick Panel
Door Trigger Red/Green (-) Courtesy Light or Driver's Kick Panel
Door Lock Brown (-) Behind Fuse Panel or 20 Pin Connector High Driver's Kick Panel
Door Unlock Brown/White (-)
Driver's Lock Blue/Black Driver's Kick Panel
Driver's Unlock Blue/Red Driver's Kick Panel
Passenger Unlock Blue/Red Passenger's Kick Panel
Horn Wire Green/Red (-) Steering Column
Windows Up LF=Green/Red, RF=Brown/Yellow
Windows Down LF=Green/Black, RF=Green/Yellow

so is it if I tap into the Neg door trigger then it should read a -12 if I hooked up a volt meter to it with the positive pen of the volt meter on that side. Sorry If i didnt make sense right there.

No. A negative trigger reads 12volts (+ or - depends on how you hook up your dmm) at rest then goes to 0 when it's triggered. So for the doors it would show 12v with the door shut and go to 0 when it opens.

Ok so I got everything working BUT the REMOTE START! I tried doing the manual setup. Where I have to

1.shut the door
2press the breake
3pull the ebrake(dosnt know if that has to do with the alarm, for it to start)
4 release the brake, and with in 15 seconds press the remote start on the alarm
5.Turn the ing off
6step out of the car
7arm the car and it should shut off


Well I get to about step number 4 and nothing happends

I get Lock and the F lights on the remote come on. And the lights flash 7 times on my parking lights. On the manual it says that I have to initiate. But thats what ive been trying to do!! Oh yea, I also did the tach learn and that came out fine I believe

oh yea i even have the toggle switch on. the one on the module. And If I read correctly I dont have to have the manual saftey wire hooked it because I have a 5 speed?

hmm. did you set the alarm to manual mode?

I was trying to, but I get up to when trying to set the car to manual mode, releasing the brake and pushing the remote start button the the remote and i get an error signal. And then thats when my parking lights flash 7 times.

Are you sure your e-brake and foot brake signals are coming through and you tapped the correct wires?

what wire on the alarm is connected to the ebrake wire

I don't have the nutural saftey wire,and hood pin connected to anything. I thought if it was a 5 speed you don't hook up the netural saftey wire. And for the hood pin wire. I don't touch that if I don't want it?

Ding ding ding... There is your problem the nuetral safety wire has to be connected to the wire that lights your ebrake light on the dash..

Black/white wire on harness2 to your ebrake light dunno what it is on a eclipse

If I remember correctly you can just ground it, which would be the same as wiring it to the ebrake, but full time. I'm thinking of automatics so the ebrake is a better idea.

Well I connected the blk/wht wire to the ebrake harness that's under my cupholder. When I pull the ebrake I get 0volt. With it's down I get 13volt(I only get voltage if my car is on the "on" position with my key.) I check and everyhing on harness is connected but the hood pin. I didn't connect that to anything.

So I shut my door
Press the foot brake
Pull the ebrake
Release the footbrake
And push the remote start button on my remote. And I get the error again with 7 flashing parking lights

i think the actual e brake wire should switch with the key off. What wire are you using for ebrake?

i connected it to a harness that goes from the actual ebrake and it cuts right under my cup holder. So I just took out my cup holder and tapped into it. When my car is off I get nothing. But when its in the "on" position i get 0volts when up and 13volts when ebrake down. Am I suppose to tap into something that always reads when the car is even off?

What wire color? I'm not positive that it reads with the car off, I've never tested it like that. If it didn't, I would think you would need to diode isolate the wire to prevent backfeeding (powering) the brake light from the alarm when the car was off.

Where and what wire did you tap your neutral saftey wire?

do you have a link to a wiring diagram for your car? 7 blinks indicates the the manual transmission mode is enabled but not initialized. Aside from the e-brake light hooked up, do you have the brake lights hooked up also? That is the brown wire off the 5 pin connector. Also make sure you properly set up the tack learn mode. Your issue lies somewhere in the remote start 5 input connector.. check all those wires..

I just ground neutral safety wire.

Constant 12V+ White Ignition Switch Harness
Starter Black/Red Ignition Switch Harness
Ignition Black/White Ignition Switch Harness
Ignition 2 Blue Ignition Switch Harness
Accessory Blue/Black Ignition Switch Harness
Tach Black/Blue Or Blue/Black Coil Pack 2 Cylinder Setting
Neutral Safety Wire Black/White (-) PCM behind Center Console
Brake Switch Green Brake Switch
Trunk Pin Red/Green Driver's Running Board
Parking Lights Green/White (+) Driver's Kick Panel or Fuse Panel
Head Lamp Red (-) Light Switch
Factory Disarm Red/Green (-) ECU Passenger's Kick Panel
Door Trigger Red/Green (-) Courtesy Light or Driver's Kick Panel
Door Lock Brown (-) Behind Fuse Panel or 20 Pin Connector High Driver's Kick Panel
Door Unlock Brown/White (-)
Driver's Lock Blue/Black Driver's Kick Panel
Driver's Unlock Blue/Red Driver's Kick Panel
Passenger Unlock Blue/Red Passenger's Kick Panel
Horn Wire Green/Red (-) Steering Column
Windows Up LF=Green/Red, RF=Brown/Yellow
Windows Down LF=Green/Black, RF=Green/Yellow

I made sure I got the brake hooked up right. I got a quick splice and connected it to the brown wire on the 5 pin connector. I am getting voltage to the unit. As for the tach I did


Turn on the car
within 5 sec hold the valet switch
valet light stayed constant
then release


Correct?

Ok well I have another problem now -_-. Anyways, on the heavy gauge harness. The voilet and green wires are giving live feeds now? Always Constant 10-12volts. Its when I hook up the Red/blk wire on the heavy gauge is when I get that constant. I disconnected everything that had to do with the heavy gauge and just connect the red/blk wire and STILL i get a constant source. It happend during the time I tried to hide my module. Then I started getting a live feed. Only thing different I did before trying to tuck my module is that I took off my RPM. Will that affect anything?

When you went to hide your module did you disconnect the alarm's ground wire or was the main harness disconnected when this happened?

Sorry for raising the dead here...

I just bought the Viper 5901 System for my 09 Lancer ES. I am understanding that the Engine Immobilzer is equipped with all the Lancers on all the Models. My question is will the pku-mit work with my 09 ES? Or am I stuck with the 556U model that requires a spare key to put in the assembly?? thanks for your time, and your answers!

question.. is it okay to tap more than one 12v line into the same source? or should i find different ones for each 12v (eg Gauges + Alarm)

I think there's a different bypass for the 08s and up. At any rate, I wouldn't give up the spare key.

edit: Here's what you want: http://www.bypasskit.com/product.asp...UMIT3&catid=2# Note that it's not a pku-mit, but basically an updated version that works with 08+ lancers/evos.

Thanks a ton, will I need a Dealer Scan tool to program this, or is it pretty safe to program on my own per the instructions. Also anyone have some simple instructions on how to get the steering column off to access the components inside? Thanks for your time

And that is my intentions I do not want to give a key :)

I'm pretty sure you don't need a dealer scan tool. You do need 2 keys that are programmed though.

Here's the programming instructions.

http://www.bypasskit.com/getdocument...documentid=710

To get the steering column off, there's 3 phillips head screws accessible from the bottom. Just look for the round holes. Then pry it apart/off. Takes 2 minutes.

I am reading about this immobilizer install, and came across this post'09 Mistu Lancer RS said he required a relay, is this so?

So I have a 5701 which I want to install soon, but I want to make sure I do it right.

The setup is:
Evo IX with Stock ECU
Factory Keyless Entry
Apex'i Turbo Timer

I can follow the wiring diagram, but just want to confirm that I'll have to do the following to make the 5701 go in smoothly.

Alarm:
Remove Factory Keyeless Entry
Remove Turbo Timer

Remote Start:
Purchase SPDT Relay
Purchase Immobilizer Unit (DEI 556U) with spare key or Bypass (PKUMIT3) with 2 keys

Am I missing anything?

-omar

I am installing this on a IX this weekend. Im just wondering which immobilizer i should buy. The pku-mit or the pku-mit3.

Pku-mit. Pretty sure the pku-mit3 is for 07+ lancers (and whatever else).

Also when they say power up the ign via jump wire, what does that exactly entail?

Connect a wire from +12v to the ignition wire so that you energize the ignition circuit without using the key.

If you're only using the Alarm part, do you still need to get the immo bypass??

Pretty sure you do so the factory keyless is bypassed.

No you don't. The immobilizer bypass is just for remote start. You don't bypass factory keyless. It is actually still operable.

when i bought my evo9 it only had one key. Is there anywhere besides the dealership i can go to get one made?

I doubt it cuz it has a chip inside. You might be able to get a blank off ebay and then get it cut, but you'll still have to go to the dealer and get it programmed.

I just had this installed a week ago and i needed that key by-pass box for the remote start. Its a little black box that hold a spare key with the transponder to active the remote start. I went ahead and grinded off the key part and just left the transponder in it. Works good also added the remote trunk pop and some other goodies.

Good alarm for the price just need to read up on all the things it does.

There's also a little black box that you don't need to use your spare key. It basically simulates a spare key. You program it to the immobilizer like you would a spare key.

Exactly, there's the old way 556U imm. bypass where you lose a key, and the newest way using an interface that's upgradable(by pc). I usually use http://www.xpressdownload.com/ or http://www.bypasskit.com/ to find which unit and firmware.

Quick question.I have Python 902 on my evo. Can i use the old wiring and plug it in in the Viper 5901?

Great write-up

No can do pare.. different connections going to the brain unit.

nice write up thanks!

Awesome write up! Thanks for taking the time to do it. I have a couple of questions though:

What tool / method did you use to strip part of the sheathing on the top wire in this picture, but leave the actual wire intact?

Also, what wattage soldering iron do you use for work inside of a car, and how do you secure the wires while you solder them? I've always pulled the wires out of the car and to a workbench to use my higher-power soldering iron - can't exactly do that in this instance though.

Are there any issues or complications with installing this into an '03 Lancer ES? Any extra parts I would need? http://www.autoalarmpro.com/inc/sdetail/1521 says that my car is compatible with the PKU-MIT. If that is the case, once I program it, where should I mount it?

Thanks!

Edit: One more question: http://www.bypasskit.com/getdocument...documentid=710 says "No wiring harnesses should be connected while programming Transponder Bypass." Does this mean connected to the ignition? This makes no sense, because then the ignition wouldn't have power to learn the new code. My assumption is they mean "No wiring harnesses should be connected [to the PKU-MIT] while programming Transponder Bypass."

I would go get a mini butane soldering iron from Radioshack for like $20. One of the handiest things I've ever purchased. Works great, no cords dangling all over your car, etc.

im doing mines soon! thanks!

Installation Drawings
 

Hey everybody. I was preparing to install the 5701 on my IX, but I wanted to make sure everything is correct so it's done right from the 1st try. After taking apart my dash panels and reading the instructions here, I thought it would be handy to have drawings, so I'm starting to make some. Here is Harness 3. Can I get some confirmation that this is correct?

P.S. I will make the other drawings once I have identified which each wire on the brain goes to.

Thanks for the contribution. yes that looks correct

Question about the diagram (and thanks for posting it!): Do the RED/WHITE, RED, and RED/BLACK wires on the H3 side all connect to the WHITE wire on the car side with no breaks in the WHITE wire? (Can you just solder all three of the reds onto one single point in the white?)

Thanks!