264/264's without injectors
Thanks again to all. This is just what I needed. I think I will stay stock for now and use that money for a good tune.
TurboTrix for the custome tune coming up in LA would you be able to install the cams just before or anytime before my tune? If so please pm with with details. Thanks
TurboTrix for the custome tune coming up in LA would you be able to install the cams just before or anytime before my tune? If so please pm with with details. Thanks
Originally Posted by evo81
660cc
to be safe.its only 400 bones.i was gonna get 720cc,but that might be over kill for stock turbo
Originally Posted by lil'evil_evo
I don't think 720's are overkill. What does everyone else think?
With a Buschur Stage 4 and a BR440 using 680cc injectors, I'm seeing 75-78% duty cycle at redline and 20 psi, running AFRs i nthe 11.0-11.2 range. I'd like to try some water injection and crank the boost up to 24 or 25 psi on 93 octane. I bet the injector duty cycles would be in the low 90s at that level of boost,
25psi on race gas, Tommi Makinen turbo, SSautochrome manifold, turbo-back exhaust, 264/264 cams, cam gears, AMS FMIC and lower IC pipe, all on stock injectors. Tuned with an XEDE to 320whp on a Dyno Dynamics.
Originally Posted by Noize
25psi on race gas, Tommi Makinen turbo, SSautochrome manifold, turbo-back exhaust, 264/264 cams, cam gears, AMS FMIC and lower IC pipe, all on stock injectors. Tuned with an XEDE to 320whp on a Dyno Dynamics.
Originally Posted by Noize
25psi on race gas, Tommi Makinen turbo, SSautochrome manifold, turbo-back exhaust, 264/264 cams, cam gears, AMS FMIC and lower IC pipe, all on stock injectors. Tuned with an XEDE to 320whp on a Dyno Dynamics.
Basically when you're hitting 90% and up you're just spraying the backs of the valves with fuel. This fuel atomizes anyway when the valve opens but it's not ideal.
Originally Posted by Noize
The car never hit 100% IDCs or maxes the injectors out. My boost tapers to 18psi by fuel cut. Peak power is just a breath before redline.
and when something running close to max hiccups and you puke your motor you will be glad you saved the $400.00 to pay for the rebuild ...I'm biased as my car can see 30+ seconds at full boost and 8,000+on the rev counter...bigger injectors = CHEAP insurance
Originally Posted by robi
and when something running close to max hiccups and you puke your motor you will be glad you saved the $400.00 to pay for the rebuild ...I'm biased as my car can see 30+ seconds at full boost and 8,000+on the rev counter...bigger injectors = CHEAP insurance
Buschurs first step is to 680cc that gives you room to mod to about 400 whp with lower than 90% IDC if funds are limited getting past 400 WHP should give you lots of time on your 680's
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Originally Posted by robi
and when something running close to max hiccups and you puke your motor you will be glad you saved the $400.00 to pay for the rebuild ...I'm biased as my car can see 30+ seconds at full boost and 8,000+on the rev counter...bigger injectors = CHEAP insurance
shiv







