Hoirse power won't kill your tanny, hell run 1000 HP it'll be fine. The TORQUE is what will kill it.

 

Sorry to bring this thread back from the semi-dead but I still have a few questions to ask. if I were to do this would I want to keep the stock 4G64 crank and get the 4G63 rods and pistons? Do the 4G64 block incorporate a balance shaft? This combo if I read everyhting right will still be 2.4 liters of displacement.

Or, put the 4G63 crank rods and pistons to make a 2.1 liter motor. I kninda like this combo which will be higher rpm capable but a little less on the low end, which is fine for my driving style.

 

Youd want the 4G64 block, 4G64 crank, EVO rods, and the piston that is made for this particular conversion, I dont believe an EVO piston would be correct, I think the pin height is different

 

the stock EVO pistons are crappy, get aftermarket ones. you can't go wrong with the 87x100 bore on the 4G64 though. i've seen blocks in the yards as low as $750 with low miles.

i have rode in a 2.4L/evo head conversion with Tomei 280 cams on a stock turbo w/stock boost. that thing is a MONSTER!!!!! with the Motec M800PRO dialing in everything like stock, it feels as if someone is pushing back into the recaros. car is idling at 950rpm WITH 280 CAMS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! full boost at 2200RPM & pulls all the way to 8K!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! i need a 2nd job so i can sign up. i can't wait till he slaps on the AMS GT35R kit...

 

what does the 4g64 come out of?

 

galant

 

Seriously I don't know why this thread is still going. 150mm rods with 100mm crank. Therefore it does not matter if you are using a 2.0 block or a 2.4 block the rod ratio is the same. Avoid the trouble. ONLY get the full 2.4 version if you plan to do the 156mm rods otherwise keep your 4G63 block and get a 2.4 crank.

 

Can the Non-Evo 2.4 crank handle the power.....

 

bump

 

The explanation has been given, but just for you I will explain again. Using standard rods on a 2.4 crank in a 2.0 block means you need to move the wrist pin up 6mm and this results in either moving the ring all up and making the ring lands weak as he11, or moving the top two rings up and putting something on the end of the wrist pins so it does not interfear too much with the oil ring. I don't like either of those options.... so I will go with standard length rods, 2.4 crank, 2.4 block, and strong @ssed forged pistons without compromised rings or compromised ring lands.

Keith

 

There are better options than just stroking the motor and worrying about it later. To me, there have been quite a few cons addressed when the subject of motors and stroker cranks comes to light.

It would seem all of the fastest cars are using 2.0L or a little more, no? With a GT35R setup, as that has become all the rage, what would the torque and spool up difference be between a 2.0L and 2.4? Honestly, I dont think compromising the relability and the longevity of a motor just for the sake of a few "vanity inches" is really worth it. For me, I actually thought it was for quite a while. I just read a reply from STFURacing, and he made quite a bit of sense. Driving style and the tune has everything to do with lag....not the way the engine is built.

The 2.0L has an incredible track record and if Im not mistaken there are people throwing over 550 horsepower at that stock bottom end....STOCK BOTTOM END. To go and change the basics (Rod length, stroke and all the specifics of their relations) would be bastardizing all the "homework" Mistubishi has done for us. Replacing them with premium parts, with someone who KNOWS how to build well is the ticket. Of course....Crower does make a 2.37L billet crank stroker kit.......for 3900 bucks.

 

Who says the ringland will be weak as hell? In theory yes but in practice that does not happen.

Every 4G63 that has broken records is a 2.0. In fact I can't think of ANYONE real fast that is using 2.3/2.4 or that is faster. Not saying that the 2.4 won't make more power or anthing just that maybe everybody should not be in a rush for that. Personally I would keep things 2.0 if you are looking for big power and good times. I own a 2.4 and I can tell you I would not build a race motor out of it. Makes for a nice street motor though.

 

Not sure about the ring lands myself, but it just goes against my grain to not use something that is as strong as possible in a built engine, and the thicker ring lands will be stronger.... even if they don't need to be

That last sentence sums it up for me, when I do a built motor it will be going into my street car... and that is where the 2.4 with a big turbo shines.

Keith

 

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...89#post2587689

 

Would it be possible to somehow make use of the 4G64 block, but with a smaller than evo rod ratio to somehow raise displacement and have more freedom to rev?

Scorke