I am no car tuner here so I was just wondering what there is important to know about turbos, as in what the different specs mean and what they do. I have no idea what it means when people talk about 16g, 20g, 30r, 35r, t67, etc..? What does this mean? What do I look for in a turbo? Is there some site to explain this? Please inform me?!

Thanks

 

really should search first.

 

That would take days of sifting through useless info, as it is a broad question, thanks though.

 

Yeah, it's a good question too... I'd like to see a list of all the turbos and their good/bad/ugly Anyway, the 16g is the stock turbo... but that's as far as most of my knowledge goes

Oh yeah, and the search function of this website SUCKS, and you end up with things that barely have to do with what you search for

 

Do searches.. they are all extremely different. For sake of simpleness (If that was only a word), the things you are worried about is what will fit with what. Lag, pump power and race power. Some turbos do MUCH better on race gas and are pretty much not worth it for straight pump gas (As opposed to the stocker). The more power the turbo will make also means it will take longer to make the power. And then there is the fitment of the turbo. Anything with the G in it will fit on Buschurs cast manifold. There is not really many choices for the stock exhaust manifold. All the garret turbos need a tubular manifold. There are also hybrid turbos (Almost all are hybrids now).

If you are interested in upgrading your turbo you need to ask yourself what you want to achieve in the end. For a straight drag car a very large turbo is your choice... lag shouldn't really matter but then on the street it will feel like a civic most of the time. If you like real short track racing (Autocross) you would be plenty happy with the stock turbo. If you like normal track racing you could go a little bigger but not much so you still spool near stock. Once you have decided what type of power curve you want (Short track = fast spoolup/less power, drag = big power/big lag and probably only does well on race gas, Streetdriving = stock or a little larger).

Once you figure out what you want, then call up a reputable shop of your choice and ask them. I suggest talking to a few shops and write down what turbo's they are recommending, then do research on each turbo and see how pricey it will be to install, how much lag it will have and how much power it will make.

After I install my turbo it won't have that much more power than the stock on pump gas, a decent amount more lag but a ton more power on race gas. I went with a medium sized turbo GT3076R. Alot of people have good success with GT35's for mainly drag cars, and the autocross enthuisiests stick to the stock or something very similair.

ps: alot of the time you can tell by the number as well... usually the larger the number the larger the turbo (More power and lag) but it gets very complicated because you can choose wheel sizes, hot side and compressor sides... ie: 3071,3076 or 52 lb wheel 61lb wheel etc... Talk to a few shops once you decide what type of car you want. You will be surprised that the stock turbo is enough for 90% of drivers.

 

This is more the type of info I'm looking for. Can anyone explain this better? Are 3071, 3076, gt35 etc just brand names? Also what is trim size, twin scroll, ball bearing vs other types of turbos? A suitable website would be helpful in lieu of answering all these questions.

 

http://www.google.com/

 

Read a book.

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg...638797-3784055

 

you really need to search each turbo applications and how they're different.

Usually the name is the size of the turbine opening. Different model numbers signify the way it's designed. Whether it's made out of aluminum (propeller) or titanium, is it ball bearing or not. also, how big the housing is ported... etc.

so, in order for someone to explain it to you, it'll take a long time.

In order for someone to explain to you the details on the pros and cons of the each turbo will take a long long time.

in order for someone to explain the different applicational problems and benefits, well, that's why you have to search.

But you could keep it simple.

Ball bearing turbos going to spool up a lot faster than non ball bearing turbo.

smaller the opening of the turbo or the housing, the quicker the turbo will spool up, and under lower RPM, however it's not going to be a lot of power.

larger the opening of the turbo or the housing, the slower the turbo will spool up, and over higher rpm (i've seen HKS big turbos spool up at 7000rpm with REv cut eliminated and bumped up to 9000rpm) and it's going to give a lot of power at short boost intervals. But the benefit in straight line racing is that once the turbo's been spooled up and shifted in to the ideal RPM band (higher RPM where it spools up), it'll give you a quicker more powerful straight line performance. Not really practical for daily driving though.

so do a search on the foundation of turbo housing design and how it works.

This is where I would start.

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/turbo.htm

 

for a more involved answer... since i like doin' these after lots of people tell your jackass to search...

your first q was about the mitsubishi series turbos. 16 20, and there's actually a 25 that you're prolly not familiar with and that you left out, g. these are turbos that mitsu make. 16 g has this td0h4 or something odd kind of serial scheme (this is why you should search cuz my trolling around has gotten me this type of half assed info and i'm certainly not gonna search for you like goku would on socal evo. in any case... the 16g is what comes on your stock evo and a similar but smaller one came on the predecesor dsms. what we have on our cars now is simply the biggest rendition of any 16g turbo anyone has ever seen... basically we're fortunate and we can make big numbers but evo owners are too rich to know this cuz they just wanna throw money at their car to solve all the hp problems that they don't have (this is dr gray's hash on things). the stock turbo is already water and oil cooled.

note... these stock turbos can also be modded... the 10.5 housing is an exhaust housing that is larger than the stock one... freeing up some choked power because the stock exhaust housing nozzle is quite the tiny peter. you can get a variety of sorts for these revised housings, the ones off the new 05s and mrs, the ones off the tme evo vi etc etc. 10.5 stands for the amount of centimeters that span the diameter of the nozzle.

the 20g is simply the same thing as a 16g but with a larger compressor wheel that flows more air. the reason why you wanna flow more air is cuz the 16g chokes after a certain amount of boost because those lil blades will spin and the air actually ends up moving faster than the blades which is bad... gives you this boost tapering thing that higher stock turbo cars are always describing. btw there's two types of boost taper... the kind built into the car and the type that arise from the limitations of the turbo's flow capabilities.

the gt30 series or more accurately gt30r are a series of turbos made by garret, to distinguish these apart from mitsu is important... at least to malibu jack.. because you can't just go to your local mitsu and pick up spare parts for your blown turbo. you have to go to a real shop and hope and pray they have something in stock... a valid concern. btw r stands for ball bearing. there are a few notable 30rs, 3071 3037 and 3052 maybe a couple more but i don't give a **** about those. these are named in size/flow capability order. and these aftermarket turbos all require a special type of exhaust header... mainly one that facilitates the attachment of these garret turbos the gt30 series uses the t3 flange i believe.

the 3071r is a similar to stock turbo with a ball bearing (there are ones without but don't get those cuz .... what's the point?) but has a much better sorted exhaust side that flows more and frees up hp and potential as well as a better sorted cold side that simply flows more than the stock could ever hope for in any modded condition (someone check me on this statement). plus it spools faster cuz of the ball bearing cartridge and maintains water and oil cooling. and with the demand of an aftermarket header usually forces you into a much better high flowing well sorted header. 30 is the series 71 i believe is a measurement of somesort... like the compressor wheel diameter or some ****.

the 3037r is favored by the jdm big names like apexi hks etc... it is a mismatched intermediate turbo, the exhaust is not well paired with the compressor sides and i don't recommend you spend money getting this turbo in any form. 30 is the series and 37 i something like the pounds per minute flow rate.

the 3052r is not well known but is the same as the 3037r with a much better sorted compressor side. i do recommend looking into this however you will have to do it all from scratch, build your own kit... not a bad thing to do btw. 30 is the series and 52 is the pounds per minute flow rate.

the gt35r is a gigantic turbo that people are putting on the evo to make lots of power. seems like they only make one size of these but people have their own kits that they're all very proud of and are desperate to sell to you.

there is also a gt40r. don't buy it or i'll kick you in the nuts.

the t67 is a turbo they put on supras... don't put it on your evo just cuz greddy told you to.

words of advice... don't buy any turbo kits from the big name jdm manufactureers... they just aren't gonna be good. too much full race car mentality and roadracing where lag "doesn't matter" even though it does mentality.

some notes: 3071r can spool faster than stock and the max you can pull is prolly 450hp to the ground on 116 octane gas with boost taper.

3037 has not really done well in too many applications.

3052 can spool like stock with the right amount of work put in and can get you up to just below 600hp on 116. gt35r is good wtih a high rev band and a long stroke, say... 2.4 liters and can get you god damn... upwards of 800 horses if you do yer **** right and hell... if you get the big engine you can spool like stock too. keep in mind when you get to the big boi turbos you're competing with exhaust side efficiencies and not boost capabilities. keep in mind again, when you get serious with turbos it's all about tuning and getting your torque curve fast and flat and your hp curve nice and smooth. spikes are bad, torque fall off is bad. this type of tuning is both on the fuel control and on the cams and flow control.

basics... more displacement more air more spool. i'm not gonna talk about headers cuz you didn't ask. there is a basic philosophy in turbos... if you want free hp... make the exhaust bigger... that's the only way you increase hp without increasing boost... increase exhaust flow. want more hp than that? increase boost... but that comes at the price of increasing octane... larger exhuast side means more efficiency but this must be matched with compressor efficiency as well. also... too big is bad... lag is bad etc etc etc. if you are smart you're concerned with torque... big means less torque and headers has a lot to do with that too... if you do things wrong you can get double whammy... less torque and more lag... bad bad. if you do it right you can get more spool more torque with the sacrifice of a lil top end hp. nothing is free... you give something to get hopefully... a lot more of something else... otherwise you're doin' the damn thing wrong.

 

www.stopbeinganassandpleasejustanswerthequestionwi thoutabunchof"gosearchinstead"replies.com


And thankyou trinydex for the info.

 

reread my post... i kept editing.

 

 

trinydex...I like the way you think!

 

wow!! so the t67 turbo is the worest turbo in the comparing due to big turbo lag!