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MBC PSI Question

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Old Apr 1, 2005 | 05:39 PM
  #16  
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ok i was planing on doing like 19 20 max. My other question is it ok to have a boost controller and like a drop in filter and runs 19/20 psi with no other mods. Im going to get Turboback exhaust in like 2 months. Or at least a down pipe.
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Old Apr 1, 2005 | 06:57 PM
  #17  
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I would get a tune before you run over 19psi. Also if you get a new intake make sure you get a tune.
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Old Apr 1, 2005 | 09:13 PM
  #18  
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Be careful on who you listen to and what advice you take... after reading some of the replies to this thread, several people have no clue what they're talking about... just giving you a heads up.
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Old Apr 1, 2005 | 10:10 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by ct9a gsr
Be careful on who you listen to and what advice you take... after reading some of the replies to this thread, several people have no clue what they're talking about... just giving you a heads up.
so whats your take on it? im curious because i was about to mod my car and start with gauge/controller set at 20 psi, and then TBE when the money reaccumulates. i thought you could do all that without flashing the car... after that point in mods, when you go intake/cams/higher boost etc to get the car flashed and install a higher capacity fuel pump...

so is it wise or unwise to have MBC as one of your first mods? cuz i agree with the thread starter, the car pulls hard but it falls flat on its face at like 5500-5800 rpm.
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Old Apr 1, 2005 | 10:16 PM
  #20  
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an MBC isn't gonna help the flat face effect much... trust me... i had a problem with the stock solenoid and was only boosting 15psi (no, it was a problem with the solenoid NOT a leak) and even putting that up at 19psi where it was supposed to be, the car still felt like hitting a way, it helps a little, but a tune kicks the **** out of it... ain't nothin for the face to hit once you've got a tune

listen to ct9, don't be stupid, stay below 20 at least, and be careful who you listen to on here... don't forget a gauge for setting it up, and definitly get it before the turbo-back, incase of boost spikes
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Old Apr 1, 2005 | 10:19 PM
  #21  
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yeah well how do i know whos for real and whos not.
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Old Apr 1, 2005 | 10:24 PM
  #22  
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Talk to people in real life, who you can look at their car... listening to people on the internet is a waste of time (and yes, I did just say I could be wrong, for all I know, I could) However, there are a few people on here who are fairly trustworthy, any of the EvoM Gurus, any of the tuning guys, and a few other top racers who have heavily modded their Evos (robi?) but even they like to push certain parts, it's human nature, it's called post-decisional-justification... no one on here has bought EVERY exhaust and tried it on a dyno, no one has had and solved EVERY problem an Evo can have, your best bet, is to get 30 opinions, take the one most said, and check out a few locals' cars too, most of my stuff has been done off what a few of the more modded Evos have done here
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Old Apr 1, 2005 | 10:26 PM
  #23  
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Oh yeah, and there is the post counter thing too... but that doesn't say a whole lot
ct9 sounds like he knows more than me (and probably does) and he has 10% of the posts I do

Last edited by UT_Evo; Apr 1, 2005 at 10:28 PM.
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Old Apr 1, 2005 | 10:32 PM
  #24  
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yeah i ddint mean to start anything. I simply wanted to know if a boost controller set at 19.5 psi with no other mods was safe, and if it would help that lag at 5500 rpm.
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Old Apr 1, 2005 | 10:33 PM
  #25  
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Well, my fairly educated guess is: definitly, and a fair bit, but not as much as you might like
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Old Apr 1, 2005 | 10:35 PM
  #26  
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so its pretty safe to do and it will kinda take that lag away. Hey what kind of times are you hittting with your set up. Thats exactly what i want to do with my car.
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Old Apr 1, 2005 | 10:41 PM
  #27  
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On 93 octane, 19.5 psi (make sure your 100% positive your gauge is DEAD on) will be just fine, and probably cut a bit of the lag/brick wall effect

times? 1:58.256, .2 faster than last time, but it was raining the first day this time Um, I haven't taken it to a 1/4 mile yet, I don't like drag racing much, but I did gain 70whp over stock. I've got JIC coilovers too, that I didn't feel obligated to put in my sig, those were the best mod so far, that and some Toyo RA-1 R compounds. The tune was the best for the money mod... 399 gave me at least 40whp, and there's not a single sign of any brick walls or solid objects of any type anymore, just the little wastegate flutter that I'm pretty sure all Evos have (all that were dynoed here have had it) Anyway, point is, this set-up, and you'll be perfectly happy, what times you'll run at a drag strip, I can't say for sure.
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Old Apr 1, 2005 | 10:46 PM
  #28  
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well UT EVO youv been really helpful this thread thanks for the answering the noob questions i apericate it. Yeah i figured you didnt run 1/4 mile i didnt get that impression form your avatar i was just curious. So boost controller, fuel pump, TB exhaust dyno flash THEN, get a tune i thin i got it all! How long should i wait to get it tuned after the dynoflash?
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Old Apr 1, 2005 | 10:55 PM
  #29  
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dynoflash is a tune, and there's other's besides dynoflash and other ways to tune besides an ECU reflash: turbo trix, s-afc II, I'm pretty sure there's a few other options, I went with Al from Dynoflash mainly cuz he was the only one who was coming to Utah and I didn't want to spend more money on a more complicated tuning device (UTEC, EXEDE, AEM, etc), just check who's coming soon enough. A full tuning thing, like those more complicated ones I listed are usually for people who have serious amounts of mods, usually, or want to do their own tuning.
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Old Apr 2, 2005 | 01:39 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by matt55
psi has no efect on lean/rich , @ wot A/F ratio should stay about the same at any psi , excpt for when you reach the limits of the stock fuel system and the stock fuel system can handle at least 320whp . But i would not go above 20-21 psi on 93 octane
yeah be careful with crazy advise like this... psi has a direct effect on lean and rich conditions, this is the whole reason they change the fuel map, to dump more fuel to prevent detonation and to keep the AFR at a reasonable level.... mitsu programmed the USDM evo fuel map to dump fuel for 16 psi up top, pushing the psi without increasing fuel means super lean conditions and BOOOM!

the 4G63 engine is tough, but if you continuely punish it with your high AFR, then dont expect it to have a long life, especially listening to crazy ideas... drop your PSI to anywhere from 16-19... then once your ready to get an ecu tune, a cost effective way is to talk to turbotrix or dynoflash and get their pro advice.... just dont tell them you were running 20 or 21 psi without a fuel pump and fuel remap cuz they will scold you hard.
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