OK now this old man is confused... you want to adjust the pedal so as to move the pedal towards the steering wheel... leaving less thread on the end of the rod, there by extending it... right? This would cause you to have the most dis-engagement...

 

i have also seen alot of tuners say to leave the adj. alone..also you adj. that pedal to far youll bury the rod into the upper slave cylinder causing it to bend... damn ill find the link sorry i deleted it..

 

Yes, that is correct.
-Paul

 

To put it simply. To extend the rod, you loosen the lock nut and turn the adjustment rod clockwise. That will de-thread the rod out of the welded nut on the back side of the clutch pedal, which in effect will extend the rod further, this also reduces your freeplay on the clutch pedal. Freeplay is defined as the amount of clutch pedal movement before the rod meets clutch master cylinder resistance.

Brian

 

I see I see...I did not see the instructions for the ACT. I get the extension thing now. Maybe I will give that another try. How will this affect engagment and disengagment?

 

Thanks guys, I'm not crazy after all... I think...


I still fail to see what this clutch release rod from Lancershop.com was supposed to do (I don't have it BTW). It is actually 1/4 shorter (not longer) than the stock rod for Dirk and a few others who seem to have misunderstood. Even adjusted all the way out to where the clutch has a slight preload, I still don't think my clutch is disengaging completely.

 

I have never understood the lancershop slave cylinder rod either.

 

ok so I just now went out and adjust my rod some. The very first time i played with it (with stock clutch) i must have rounded off that nut , so each time i tried to get the nut loose my wrench would just turn on the nut from the edges being rounded off....I kept playing with it and somehow got it loose...made the adjustment just now and tightened back up the best I could (which probably isnt much with the edges of the nut rounded off), but my question is what would you guys do if I ever need to do it again?? Is there any way to replace that nut if need be since Ive rounded the edges of it off??

 

You can probably take the rod all the way out and replace the nut.

 

You can back the pedal rear stop all the way back and that will allow you to unscrew the adjustment rod all the way out of the pedal welded nut. Once you have the master cylinder rod loose from the pedal, you can turn the stipped nut all the way off. Go get a replacement nut and reinstall. It is kind of hard to get the adjustment rod threaded back into the pedal, but once you get that done, reverse the install. Then readjust it.

Brian

 

so you have done it before I take it?? I was sick to my stomach about 5 mins ago because i couldnt see a way to get it out to change the nut out. Now I dont feel sooo bad, Im stupid, i have some kind of overtightening syndrome where i always strip crap out.

 

I haven't done it on the Evo, but I have done it on my Supra. I changed out the clutch master cylinder to try to solve a clutch problem I was having with the Supra. That is part of the procedure for changing out a clutch master cylinder on any hydraulic clutched car. You might have used the wrong sized wrench. It is hard to get twisted down there to get to that area on the car.

Good luck.

Brian

 

3 pages and i think i am still confused....lol

 

same thing with me. i have the act clutch lightweight flywheel and ss line.

 

when you guys adjusted the pedal...did it move your engagment and disengagment point way up on the pedal? Its almost to the top now before it grabs when letting out...is that what I wanted?