I need your advise on which clutch to get
The strange sounds are normal - you should have rec'd a flyer with your clutch discussing this. It's posted on the Exedy web site, too - http://www.daikin-clutch.com/catalog...ech%20info.pdf. Mine makes a loose parts sound that matches engine revs when the clutch pedal is depressed. I'm assuming it's the twin discs rattling around when they aren't all clamped together.
The pedal engagement is probably just where the dealer set it to be. It sounds like your install is fine so far.
The pedal engagement is probably just where the dealer set it to be. It sounds like your install is fine so far.
ACT all the way. I have had mine in for over 10000 miles not a problem. Not that expensive and it gets the job done. My friend had an Hks twin disk in his evo not even 5000 miles and it went bad(something with the pressure plate). He call me up I gave him the one that was sitting in my room, he put it in and brought me another one. I love it, pedal feel is stiffer than stock but you will get used to it.
Originally Posted by EJEvo
Here's an update on my Exedy twin disc experience, and it's not good.
At around the 800 mile mark, I started to have problems:
At around the 800 mile mark, I started to have problems:
- Disengaging the clutch doesn't seem to really disengage the clutch consistently - I have to pop the shifter out of gear and into neutral before the car will coast - otherwise it will slightly engine brake. (clutch drag?)
- A new sound cropped up - a rather loud harmonic, like someone ringing a tuning fork, would occur as the clutch was being engaged. I can live with that if the clutch worked right.
- I'm also experiencing on occasion the clutch engaging lower in the clutch pedal travel than normal, then it slips, then it engages again once the pedal reaches the regular engagement point in its travel. This usually happens when a)starting from a standstill and b) having the wheel turned.
Originally Posted by ACTman
We have tested both the Exedy pressure plate and the Exedy friction material. The Exedy stage 1 is a great clutch, but it doesn't compare to the ACT as close as you suggest. The RRE "no name clutch" uses your stage 1 pressure plate and is more comparable to the Exedy stage 1. The ACT still has some performance advantages while giving up a little more on driveability and heavier pedal than the Exedy or RRE.
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I have about 1100 miles on the new twin disk now so I think its pretty well broken in.
Let me start by saying that I am seriously regretting having this clutch installed its not performing like I was told or expected. I'm starting to experience the same symptoms EJEvo had. Just for reference I had my trans and TC all replaced at the same time the twin disk was installed. A local Mitsu shop did everything... I talked to the tech that did the install and he said it went smooth with no problems so I don't think it’s a case of faulty installation.
For starters I'm getting a metallic humming noise when the clutch is engaged and the actual engagement is VERY sudden. It’s like how a copper disk engages if you've ever driven a car with one... not a pleasant experience.
The shifting is extremely notchy and not smooth what so ever. I tried adjusting the clutch pedal but all that does is seem to change the position of the pedal it self and doesn't change how the clutch actually reacts.
Also the engagement is at the very top of the pedal with about .5" to 1" of play before engagement, making it like an ON/OFF switch. Not like the stocker what so ever.
I'm going to try to bleed the slave cylinder this weekend and see if that doens't help... if not I will be pulling this twin disk and replacing it for an ACT. I would sell it if anyone was intersted but I doubt it. All I can say is if bleeding the slave doesn't fix my problems it be the first and last exedy product I purchase for any of my cars.
Let me start by saying that I am seriously regretting having this clutch installed its not performing like I was told or expected. I'm starting to experience the same symptoms EJEvo had. Just for reference I had my trans and TC all replaced at the same time the twin disk was installed. A local Mitsu shop did everything... I talked to the tech that did the install and he said it went smooth with no problems so I don't think it’s a case of faulty installation.
For starters I'm getting a metallic humming noise when the clutch is engaged and the actual engagement is VERY sudden. It’s like how a copper disk engages if you've ever driven a car with one... not a pleasant experience.
The shifting is extremely notchy and not smooth what so ever. I tried adjusting the clutch pedal but all that does is seem to change the position of the pedal it self and doesn't change how the clutch actually reacts.
Also the engagement is at the very top of the pedal with about .5" to 1" of play before engagement, making it like an ON/OFF switch. Not like the stocker what so ever.
I'm going to try to bleed the slave cylinder this weekend and see if that doens't help... if not I will be pulling this twin disk and replacing it for an ACT. I would sell it if anyone was intersted but I doubt it. All I can say is if bleeding the slave doesn't fix my problems it be the first and last exedy product I purchase for any of my cars.
Originally Posted by AlwaysinBoost
I have about 1100 miles on the new twin disk now so I think its pretty well broken in. Let me start by saying that I am seriously regretting having this clutch installed its not performing like I was told or expected. I'm starting to experience the same symptoms EJEvo had.
Originally Posted by EVIL_EVO_VIII
Got a ? for you. How come i keep hearing problems on Evos after installing your clutch? For ex: cant engage, grinding, not able to shift at high rpms. Ive read numerous complaints from Evo owners with these issues. Any reason why? Installation maybe? I have a friend locally here that went trough 2 of your clutches bc theres a ring that kept breaking. Thanks
1) Adjustment: Because we are increasing the diaphragm spring load, it flexes a bit more which requires more travel. This means that sometimes an adjustment is necessary. Some (more like most) of the time people don't read instructions or think to adjust the pedal to raise the release point. Many people like the feel of the lower engagement point but they don't realize the consequences.
2) Improper release bearing instalation (like your friend's car): If the bearing is not clicked in all the way, the snap ring which is half-way installed will cause the release bearing to be crooked. Now the clutch doesn't lift evenly or adequately.
3) Weight of the disc: Our disc is not light. This is because it has dampening springs in the hub that reduce torsional vibrations. Great for the street, but not ideal for racing.
4) Torsional vibration: Lighter flywheel, aftermarket front dampener, high boost, cams, timing, and numberous other mods increase torsional vibration which can cause the drive straps in the pressure plate to bind from torsional pulses. This makes the casting bounce into the disc. Torsional vibration also can cause crankshaft flex which can make the clutch start to engage at high rpms. I could tell a couple stories but I don't want to bore you.
Last edited by ACTman; Jul 19, 2005 at 07:24 AM.
Originally Posted by ACTman
We are not doing anything significantly different from stock. There are a few reasons that I think you will hear this:
1) Adjustment: Because we are increasing the diaphragm spring load, it flexes a bit more which requires more travel. This means that sometimes an adjustment is necessary. Some (more like most) of the time people don't read instructions or think to adjust the pedal to raise the release point. Many people like the feel of the lower engagement point but they don't realize the consequences.
2) Improper release bearing instalation (like your friend's car): If the bearing is not clicked in all the way, the snap ring which is half-way installed will cause the release bearing to be crooked. Now the clutch doesn't lift evenly or adequately.
3) Weight of the disc: Our disc is not light. This is because it has dampening springs in the hub that reduce torsional vibrations. Great for the street, but not ideal for racing.
4) Torsional vibration: Lighter flywheel, aftermarket front dampener, high boost, cams, timing, and numberous other mods increase torsional vibration which can cause the drive straps in the pressure plate to bind from torsional pulses. This makes the casting bounce into the disc. Torsional vibration also can cause crankshaft flex which can make the clutch start to engage at high rpms. I could tell a couple stories but I don't want to bore you.
1) Adjustment: Because we are increasing the diaphragm spring load, it flexes a bit more which requires more travel. This means that sometimes an adjustment is necessary. Some (more like most) of the time people don't read instructions or think to adjust the pedal to raise the release point. Many people like the feel of the lower engagement point but they don't realize the consequences.
2) Improper release bearing instalation (like your friend's car): If the bearing is not clicked in all the way, the snap ring which is half-way installed will cause the release bearing to be crooked. Now the clutch doesn't lift evenly or adequately.
3) Weight of the disc: Our disc is not light. This is because it has dampening springs in the hub that reduce torsional vibrations. Great for the street, but not ideal for racing.
4) Torsional vibration: Lighter flywheel, aftermarket front dampener, high boost, cams, timing, and numberous other mods increase torsional vibration which can cause the drive straps in the pressure plate to bind from torsional pulses. This makes the casting bounce into the disc. Torsional vibration also can cause crankshaft flex which can make the clutch start to engage at high rpms. I could tell a couple stories but I don't want to bore you.
Originally Posted by EVIL_EVO_VIII
So what do u recomend as far as installation so these kind of problems can be avoided? Specially problems with clutch engamenent causing syncro damaga.Thanks
One more point to bring up: If the pressure plate was dropped really hard at any point in time, even during shipping, the straps can get bent and cause the clutch to drag. With this in mind, check out the pressure plate real good before install just to be sure the straps are not damaged.
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another update:
went to the
shoot out today to try the clutch out, so far I have 1800 miles on it with no launching what so ever. With the stock clutch I previously had I got over 100 1/4 mile passes with about half being 1.7-1.8 60'.
Best I could manage with the Exedy Twin Disk was a 1.90 out of 4 passes. I got a 2.1, 2.0 & 1.98
this clutch ****ing sucks... I've got a brand new TC and transmission from mitsu, with the stock clutch I was running MUCH better and the ONLY thing that changed was the clutch. I am pissed after having spent 1400 for a clutch that was suspossed to be just like stock only better... what a bunch of bull ****.
The engagement is like an on/off switch, there is very little room to "slip". the noise would be acceptable if the clutch performed like it was susposed to. And trying to get it in first sometimes is almost impossable. About the only good thing I can say is the pedal isn't stiff
My advise to someone looking for a new clutch, avoid the exedy twin disk
went to the
shoot out today to try the clutch out, so far I have 1800 miles on it with no launching what so ever. With the stock clutch I previously had I got over 100 1/4 mile passes with about half being 1.7-1.8 60'. Best I could manage with the Exedy Twin Disk was a 1.90 out of 4 passes. I got a 2.1, 2.0 & 1.98
this clutch ****ing sucks... I've got a brand new TC and transmission from mitsu, with the stock clutch I was running MUCH better and the ONLY thing that changed was the clutch. I am pissed after having spent 1400 for a clutch that was suspossed to be just like stock only better... what a bunch of bull ****.The engagement is like an on/off switch, there is very little room to "slip". the noise would be acceptable if the clutch performed like it was susposed to. And trying to get it in first sometimes is almost impossable. About the only good thing I can say is the pedal isn't stiff
My advise to someone looking for a new clutch, avoid the exedy twin disk
Originally Posted by ACTman
.
One more point to bring up: If the pressure plate was dropped really hard at any point in time, even during shipping, the straps can get bent and cause the clutch to drag. With this in mind, check out the pressure plate real good before install just to be sure the straps are not damaged.
One more point to bring up: If the pressure plate was dropped really hard at any point in time, even during shipping, the straps can get bent and cause the clutch to drag. With this in mind, check out the pressure plate real good before install just to be sure the straps are not damaged.
Originally Posted by XxBLACKMAMBAxX
Would this be obvious to see? What exactly would it look like, thanks
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Still no change, 2,400 miles and my Exedy twin is still horrible to drive. It has gotten to the point to where I don't even enjoy driving my car anymore because the clutch engagement is so harsh... I'm sick of getting beeped at when I'm at a light cause I can't get the car in gear.
SO far I've bleed the system twice and adjusted the clutch rod well over a dozen times with absolutly NO change in engagement. I'm very tempted to just pull this $1400 peice of crap out of my car and get a single disk ACT setup...
.
SO far I've bleed the system twice and adjusted the clutch rod well over a dozen times with absolutly NO change in engagement. I'm very tempted to just pull this $1400 peice of crap out of my car and get a single disk ACT setup...
.


