rower stroker kit vs. RnR 2.4l stroker motor
All I'm going to say, id before you buy anything from RnR, please do a search on here and read about the experiences people have had with them. That should influence your decision a lot as well.
Yes, we have plenty of great reviews on here. Do a search and you will see the 2.4 is on of the best options out there. We have added a lot of new employees to handle the demand we are seeing these days.
Check out Jackson Auto Machine. They know DSMs and now they are making an Evo stroker kit with forged crank, Wiseco (coated) pistons and your choice of 3 rods.
All for $2590 and down.
http://www.jacksonautomachine.com/ht...m?sectionId=31
All for $2590 and down.
http://www.jacksonautomachine.com/ht...m?sectionId=31
I think you mean Crower in the title
....
Couple things here and I will take them as you listed.
The Crower kit is designed for a 4g63 block and comes with a billett crank/billett rods/JE pistons and with strokes of 102MM or 97MM. Since it is made of billett the cost is $3900. With the 86MM bore & stroke of 102MM you get a 2.37 or 2.4 with rounding. Since the crank/rods are made from billett, they should be bullett proof and be able to spin a higher rpms without failure.
The RNR stroker kit, is really not a stroker it, as it utilizes a 4g64 block with a 4g63 head. The 4g64 block has a 6MM higher deck & a 86.5MM bore with a 100MM stroke = 2.35 or again a 2.4. The cost are roughly about $4,500 from companies such as Magnus, Road/Race or RNR. There is also some other things like the timing belt and others that are from the 4g64 as well.
The biggest difference between the two is the block the kit goes into. The 4g63 with a stroker kit will have shorter rods & force the piston pin up higer in the piston & this does not allow as much clearence between the piston rings, but the block has piston squiters.
The 4g64 will allow for custom length rods to take advantage of the 6MM taller deck and allow better rod ratio, but the block does not have piston squiters. You could have them added, if you feel you need them.
Some vendors have suggested that the 4g64 has head gasket problems due only one head gasket by Cometic being as your only option.
Both options will help spool a larger turbo and increase low end torque and move the power band down in the rpms. Either of these options would be great for a street car that does not spend it's like in the high rpms....
So in the end the differences are the blocks themselves. I would recommend talking to your tuner/engine builder and listen to their recommedations on what they prefer and why.
Just my $.02 cents....
....Couple things here and I will take them as you listed.
The Crower kit is designed for a 4g63 block and comes with a billett crank/billett rods/JE pistons and with strokes of 102MM or 97MM. Since it is made of billett the cost is $3900. With the 86MM bore & stroke of 102MM you get a 2.37 or 2.4 with rounding. Since the crank/rods are made from billett, they should be bullett proof and be able to spin a higher rpms without failure.
The RNR stroker kit, is really not a stroker it, as it utilizes a 4g64 block with a 4g63 head. The 4g64 block has a 6MM higher deck & a 86.5MM bore with a 100MM stroke = 2.35 or again a 2.4. The cost are roughly about $4,500 from companies such as Magnus, Road/Race or RNR. There is also some other things like the timing belt and others that are from the 4g64 as well.
The biggest difference between the two is the block the kit goes into. The 4g63 with a stroker kit will have shorter rods & force the piston pin up higer in the piston & this does not allow as much clearence between the piston rings, but the block has piston squiters.
The 4g64 will allow for custom length rods to take advantage of the 6MM taller deck and allow better rod ratio, but the block does not have piston squiters. You could have them added, if you feel you need them.
Some vendors have suggested that the 4g64 has head gasket problems due only one head gasket by Cometic being as your only option.
Both options will help spool a larger turbo and increase low end torque and move the power band down in the rpms. Either of these options would be great for a street car that does not spend it's like in the high rpms....
So in the end the differences are the blocks themselves. I would recommend talking to your tuner/engine builder and listen to their recommedations on what they prefer and why.
Just my $.02 cents....
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