coolant in cylinders 1 &2?
ok ..here's what you do... suck out all the coolant from cylinders 1 & 2 ...perform engine flush...change spark plugs...do compression test once that is done...if car doesnt' still cranks but doesnt' turn over...it may be your starter motor that is toast...due to engine being flooded with coolant... dealer wont warranty fluids in engine ...and seeing your modded like hell...no point going to the dealer unless you're ready to spend. I'm pretty sure that should fix your prob..i had a similar encounter...but it wasn't coolant in the engine.

let me know how it goes

If yopu had coolant in the cylinder and cranked the motor there are amjor problems

Liquids do not compress so as the cylinder comes up to compress the air/fuel that should be in there *BAM* a whole mess of stuff is wrecked

Sounds to me like your enigine is toast have a professional see fi they can salvage the block and head.

Ben

Guys,
Today, I assisted my friend in taking out the head. Lower end looks good - no visible signs of cylinder damages. And the head looks clean as well, no damages to valves seen. We cleaned both and about to put it back with new gaskets. We are hoping the head is not warped.

By the way, the motor did turn when we cranked. And when we drained the oil, NO coolant was found - just black pure oil.

We're thinking the engine shut itself down to protect itself...


Your advise would be appreciated, as we're planning to put it back tomorrow morning...

We also plan to do compression test afterwards.

thanks! See pics.

have the head checked for flat

any way to check for flat head at home?

i think long aluminum ruler should do the trick

I would really get that head checked before you reassemble, even if you have to take it to a machine shop to get a straight edge on it.

any local shop you recommend?

how's that rabbit???

I really don't have a shop to recommend. I and other friends of mine have done engine machine work at Advanced Valve in Frederick, but I think any shop could quickly check the straightness of a head. I'm still working on tuning the rabbit. So far, no substantial gains, but I haven't given up yet.

Dude while you are in there if you plan on doing cams or anthing rework the head. You have the more expensive part halfway done now(labor)

Also How did the head gasket look?

Ben

Like others said get that head checked out before you put it back on. It is aluminum and will warp very easily. Sounds like you got it pretty hot to pop the headgasket and im guessing you are gonna have to get the head resurfaced. Sounds like your bottom end is ok but do not bolt the head up without getting it checked and if I were you I would go ahead and get it resurfaced anyway. You want that head to be as flat as possible when you bolt if up to a fresh gasket. Goodluck

Crank, and turn-over are the same thing right? The starter will not "crank" if the Engine will not "turn-over".

If you had water in the cylinders, how did you not get water in the oil? I say re-surface the head. It is cheap, and any machine shop can do it. Just ensure they don't mill it down. It is a good idea to keep an eye on your instruments at all times. Just devolop a scan. When you look at your speed, check your systems as well at the same time, such as temp and fuel. It is good habbit transfer.

I hope your damage can be repaired on the cheap. I am sorry that this happened to you!

bbbwrx:

Thanks for the lesson on hydro-lock, but he didn't drive through any creeks or deep puddles. You are thinking of a totally different phenomenon

damn, any warranty?

Damn... Props for doing all this all at home with just a friend. Hopefully everything will work out for you.

Guys,
My friend and I checked the head and it was flat ! So we cleaned and put her back and made sure of retorgue to spec. Wow we spent over 14 hrs putting her back.

Went for a drive and she pulls hard as ever! No smoke , no leake and she still kicks ***, amazing!

Props to my friend, Jason! He was incredible, so diligent and he had the faith in his work! Put in new radiator and now she rocks!

Shop that originally put arp studs in had uneven torques on them and I think this contributed to the problem. Shame on them!

But now, she pulls hard as ever!!! I never thought that I had to pull my engine apart in my own garage let alone fix it ourselves!!!!