Saw my Boost bouncing while on the Dyno
Saw my Boost bouncing while on the Dyno
Ok so I just installed a Magnaflow Ti cat back. I saw higher numbers on the dyno 252whp and 264tq new numbers were 267whp and 264tq. This is on the new dyno jet 424x and my wires were stock and so was my air filter.
The dyno operator asked me to hop in the car, he said he could feel shuttering or stuttering durring acceration and that it was related to the boost. So durring a run I saw it the boost went to 1.4 dropped to 1.25 and back up to 1.4 and down to 1.3 and back up. The point is it kept doing this dance from peak tq at 3500 to redline.
What is the deal? Please help... Boost leak, bad waste gate, bad boost slenoid, any other suggestions
#'s with air filter, wires and ti exhaust sae corrected 267 whp 277 tq
The dyno operator asked me to hop in the car, he said he could feel shuttering or stuttering durring acceration and that it was related to the boost. So durring a run I saw it the boost went to 1.4 dropped to 1.25 and back up to 1.4 and down to 1.3 and back up. The point is it kept doing this dance from peak tq at 3500 to redline.
What is the deal? Please help... Boost leak, bad waste gate, bad boost slenoid, any other suggestions

#'s with air filter, wires and ti exhaust sae corrected 267 whp 277 tq
Last edited by MR. SNOW; Jul 5, 2005 at 08:29 PM.
My car does an almost identical thing... I'm modded though and I think mine is related to the MBC. I'm assuming his only mod was a Magnaflow Ti catback. I'm sure he would have mentioned a MBC as that would be an easy culprit.
Ralliart plug wires and Monster sport drop in air filter... thats the extent of the mods.
Some one said it could be my restrictor pill choking the boost or the factory program. I am a green at this so I don't know. Thanks for the help.
Some one said it could be my restrictor pill choking the boost or the factory program. I am a green at this so I don't know. Thanks for the help.
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I put in a sun auto cyber grounding kit to fix a satic problem with the raido and I saw as a consequence the boost is now sticking pretty solid. So, I will have to see what happens, I am getting a laptop data logger/dyno kit, I will take the wires off and put them back on and look for a difference.
Originally Posted by DynoFlash
Uusually that means the ecu is pulling timing
I have no idea how you're making a correlation between fixing the static on your radio to fixing your boost problem... however, if your boost problem is gone, more power to you.
Originally Posted by ct9a gsr
I have no idea how you're making a correlation between fixing the static on your radio to fixing your boost problem... however, if your boost problem is gone, more power to you.
Although, what I meant to say was ... I said I did a grond kit to fix the radio but I also noticed that the boost was almost steady 1.39-1.4 in acceleration.
In addition the car revs freely and leaves vacume faster, and I can get it out of vacume now just thru reving (close but not possible before).
The car has a soilid 14v read on the meter even with the ac on and headlights and the wipers. Before it used to bounce off 14v in to the 13v range with the wipers on alone.
I guess the cars dc system is working more efficently now so the computer is running better. Could it be like the CPU at home if the power supply is taxed out the processor runs slower or even crashes?
I still want a tune


