The Ultimate BOV Thread
this is from socal evo, from what i and some others wrote.
dejon tools has a pnumatic switch that is swtiched at 15 psi. this is basically a three way valve. when it's above 15 psi the valve directs air, let's call it "up" and when it's below 15psi it directs the air "down".
now your typical mitsu bov is actually a complex unit. it's not just a spring and valve type bov.
you don't need me to dra pics of a normal bov and how it works so this is the extra punch in a mitsu valve.
there are four holes in the mitsu bov, the first is the large one that all the air goes out of, this i will call the recirc hole.
the other is the hole at the top that makes the bov look like a ww2 tank, i will call this the manifold pressure hole.
the third is in the bottom of the flange where all the air comes in and goes out the recirc hole, i will call this the valve hole.
and the fourth and most important is the tiny hole next to the valve hole which i will call the bleed hole.
so basically the manifold pressure hole lets the bov sense when there is boost and when there is vac. the bleed hole on the other hand routes some air to the bottom of the diaphram (down) to try to let the valve open quickly and alleviate compressor surge. this is the reason why 1gs always retain that stock like drivability.
now the dejon tools leak stop kit says, this is not enough. you plug the bleed hole from the bottom and drill another bleed hole in the side of the flange, this way instead of air ALWAYS going into the bleed hole from the bottom whenever there is boost, you can PICK when the bleed hole gets air!!!!
this way you get the best of both worlds!
so the switch crams air up when you're on boost and then directs the air down when you're off boost. this translates into you can hold as much boost as you want when you're on boost, and you can vent as easy as pie when you're off boost.
gt40: I have been running this and it really does work if you are obsessed about boost leakage. I don't really think it makes a whole lot of difference in hindsight over my crushed 1g power wise. My logs do show a bit flatter boost and it really opens the instant you lift the throttle so there is zero turbo surge.
You can just order it all modded for you if your lazy
this is the only bov you'll ever need and it all costs less than 100 bucks.
dejon tools has a pnumatic switch that is swtiched at 15 psi. this is basically a three way valve. when it's above 15 psi the valve directs air, let's call it "up" and when it's below 15psi it directs the air "down".
now your typical mitsu bov is actually a complex unit. it's not just a spring and valve type bov.
you don't need me to dra pics of a normal bov and how it works so this is the extra punch in a mitsu valve.
there are four holes in the mitsu bov, the first is the large one that all the air goes out of, this i will call the recirc hole.
the other is the hole at the top that makes the bov look like a ww2 tank, i will call this the manifold pressure hole.
the third is in the bottom of the flange where all the air comes in and goes out the recirc hole, i will call this the valve hole.
and the fourth and most important is the tiny hole next to the valve hole which i will call the bleed hole.
so basically the manifold pressure hole lets the bov sense when there is boost and when there is vac. the bleed hole on the other hand routes some air to the bottom of the diaphram (down) to try to let the valve open quickly and alleviate compressor surge. this is the reason why 1gs always retain that stock like drivability.
now the dejon tools leak stop kit says, this is not enough. you plug the bleed hole from the bottom and drill another bleed hole in the side of the flange, this way instead of air ALWAYS going into the bleed hole from the bottom whenever there is boost, you can PICK when the bleed hole gets air!!!!
this way you get the best of both worlds!
so the switch crams air up when you're on boost and then directs the air down when you're off boost. this translates into you can hold as much boost as you want when you're on boost, and you can vent as easy as pie when you're off boost.
gt40: I have been running this and it really does work if you are obsessed about boost leakage. I don't really think it makes a whole lot of difference in hindsight over my crushed 1g power wise. My logs do show a bit flatter boost and it really opens the instant you lift the throttle so there is zero turbo surge.
You can just order it all modded for you if your lazy
this is the only bov you'll ever need and it all costs less than 100 bucks.
Originally Posted by red evo8
lancer shop offers an hks stablizer chip that stabilizes that maf so u can run any vta bov with no recirc so you get good performance and sound only drawback is its 125$
Are you really saying this man. Sounds isnt really the concern. I know i want function.
Not that Cool Whoooo ppssshhhh sound your refering too.
And yes i said Whooopphhsss cause i had to put it in Fast and the Furious Terms so the Newbs would understand.
Originally Posted by trinydex
this is from socal evo, from what i and some others wrote.
dejon tools has a pnumatic switch that is swtiched at 15 psi. this is basically a three way valve. when it's above 15 psi the valve directs air, let's call it "up" and when it's below 15psi it directs the air "down".
now your typical mitsu bov is actually a complex unit. it's not just a spring and valve type bov.
you don't need me to dra pics of a normal bov and how it works so this is the extra punch in a mitsu valve.
there are four holes in the mitsu bov, the first is the large one that all the air goes out of, this i will call the recirc hole.
the other is the hole at the top that makes the bov look like a ww2 tank, i will call this the manifold pressure hole.
the third is in the bottom of the flange where all the air comes in and goes out the recirc hole, i will call this the valve hole.
and the fourth and most important is the tiny hole next to the valve hole which i will call the bleed hole.
so basically the manifold pressure hole lets the bov sense when there is boost and when there is vac. the bleed hole on the other hand routes some air to the bottom of the diaphram (down) to try to let the valve open quickly and alleviate compressor surge. this is the reason why 1gs always retain that stock like drivability.
now the dejon tools leak stop kit says, this is not enough. you plug the bleed hole from the bottom and drill another bleed hole in the side of the flange, this way instead of air ALWAYS going into the bleed hole from the bottom whenever there is boost, you can PICK when the bleed hole gets air!!!!
this way you get the best of both worlds!
so the switch crams air up when you're on boost and then directs the air down when you're off boost. this translates into you can hold as much boost as you want when you're on boost, and you can vent as easy as pie when you're off boost.
gt40: I have been running this and it really does work if you are obsessed about boost leakage. I don't really think it makes a whole lot of difference in hindsight over my crushed 1g power wise. My logs do show a bit flatter boost and it really opens the instant you lift the throttle so there is zero turbo surge.
You can just order it all modded for you if your lazy
this is the only bov you'll ever need and it all costs less than 100 bucks.
dejon tools has a pnumatic switch that is swtiched at 15 psi. this is basically a three way valve. when it's above 15 psi the valve directs air, let's call it "up" and when it's below 15psi it directs the air "down".
now your typical mitsu bov is actually a complex unit. it's not just a spring and valve type bov.
you don't need me to dra pics of a normal bov and how it works so this is the extra punch in a mitsu valve.
there are four holes in the mitsu bov, the first is the large one that all the air goes out of, this i will call the recirc hole.
the other is the hole at the top that makes the bov look like a ww2 tank, i will call this the manifold pressure hole.
the third is in the bottom of the flange where all the air comes in and goes out the recirc hole, i will call this the valve hole.
and the fourth and most important is the tiny hole next to the valve hole which i will call the bleed hole.
so basically the manifold pressure hole lets the bov sense when there is boost and when there is vac. the bleed hole on the other hand routes some air to the bottom of the diaphram (down) to try to let the valve open quickly and alleviate compressor surge. this is the reason why 1gs always retain that stock like drivability.
now the dejon tools leak stop kit says, this is not enough. you plug the bleed hole from the bottom and drill another bleed hole in the side of the flange, this way instead of air ALWAYS going into the bleed hole from the bottom whenever there is boost, you can PICK when the bleed hole gets air!!!!
this way you get the best of both worlds!
so the switch crams air up when you're on boost and then directs the air down when you're off boost. this translates into you can hold as much boost as you want when you're on boost, and you can vent as easy as pie when you're off boost.
gt40: I have been running this and it really does work if you are obsessed about boost leakage. I don't really think it makes a whole lot of difference in hindsight over my crushed 1g power wise. My logs do show a bit flatter boost and it really opens the instant you lift the throttle so there is zero turbo surge.
You can just order it all modded for you if your lazy
this is the only bov you'll ever need and it all costs less than 100 bucks.
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Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 94
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may be answered already but cant help but to ask most of the people i know have bov they like to hear the ya know whoosh sound i think its cool too but is it worth puttin on a mod to hear a noise n does it damage the car in anyway or benefit it
I have the stock IX MR BOV. IMO you dont need more unless you go with a bigger turbo and want something that can hold past 25psi.
Oh and I get the chuff sound without the need for a VTA.
VTA < ReCIRC. Why waste all that compressed air?
Oh and I get the chuff sound without the need for a VTA.
VTA < ReCIRC. Why waste all that compressed air?
is there any description on the sard R2D2 bov? cuz i am actually on that bov right now...my friend tells me theres possibility that i am losing power with it..and it is mounted at the bottom of the intake of my X..i would like to know as much information as possible..
my MR BPV, that i crushed, holds 30 psi no problem
I bought a used HKS SSQV unit and it works pretty well. You need the flange on it for the stock intercooler hose. Then you will have to put a 1" ID hose on the outlet so it will fit the stock inlet tube. It flutters a bit under part throttle but the car spools so much faster. i plan on running 30 psi with E-85 so i wasn't sure if the IX would work for me. It kind of sucks on the hw going up big hills but its liveable. Have to pay to play right?