wow when i dyno'd my 05 on the MD at RS Motors , got way diffrent base results. 216whp and 252.8 ft lbs. this was completely stock. but this will be cool to see the gains you get from each stage on the MD

 

Looking forward to the results.

 

can't wait!

 

I went back and reviewed the type of gains I got in the old Buschur Racing Dyno thread. Doing some math and trying to get an idea what our MD dyno relates to in numbers on a 2WD Dynojet has come up with this little chart below. It looks like about 18% difference going from our old 2WD Dynojet to our new MD AWD dyno.

BR AWD Mustang Dyno #'s 2WD Dynojet number#'s
200 236
250 295
300 354
350 413
400 472
450 531
500 590
525 619
550 649
575 678
600 708

It's funny to watch the difference increase as the numbers get higher. Explains why our cars are going so fast now tuning on this dyno compared to the numbers we got ourselves use to over the years of spinning rollers on a 2wd Dynojet.

Hopefully this can help put some of the numbers you guys have been seeing on our dyno now compare to what we had advertised our kits to make in the past.

Thanks for reading!!

David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com

 

Thumbs up on the dyno! I came in thinking I wouldn't be able to gain very much.. but a BR air filter and custom tune later... I'm back to the first day of driving the car. Smile ear to ear while shifting gears. The car pulls ALOT harder with all my luggage and GF in the car that it did before with just me.

I don't want to spam up your thread.. so I'll stop by just saying thanks! You definately know how to treat a customer.

Edit: btw i was just shy of 300whp on this dyno (296) With just a 3" TBE / Cone filter / Cams and a couple other small goodies.

 

Those are comparisons based on your first EVO correct Dave? Everyone always thought that car was a factory freak Using your first evo I got a correction factor between the two of around 18%. Using your RS I got a correction factor of 15%. Now, was the First EVO really strong from the factory or was the RS weak from the factory? That would let us know what of the two correction factors to use. Are your dyno charts on the Buschur racing web page from the RS or from the old car?

Looking forward to the results from this afternoo,

Keith

 

The current dyno sheets on the site are from my RS. The old 2003 sheets were up originally and were constantly higher than the 2004 RS. In other words the 2003 made more power from stock through Stage 4 than my RS did. I'd say it was a freak or maybe tuned with leaner AFR's and more boost, an ex-employee was involved with a lot of that 2003 tuning and I can't remember what all was done.

Comparing this dyno to the RS though it seems as though 18% is what the difference is.

SO without further hesitation.......

Next post

David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com

 

Next post.....

Stage 1 installed. This is our air filter kit, manual boost controller, boost gauge, gauge mount, full 3" exhaust with no cat and our lightweight BR muffler, re-flashed ECU. Car just made 260 whp. That is exactly a 50 whp increase. These runs were done on 93 octane, not 94 this time. From 210 to 260 for $1310. Weight saved is 42 pounds over the stock weight of the car. BTW, boost was at 20 psi only.

Converting this to our old 2wd Dynojet numbers the car would have made 306.8 whp, pretty close to what we had last time.

A quick swap over to Stage 2 on the dyno, never unstrapped it OR changed the tune or boost. Put on our upper i/c pipe kit with upgraded BOV, 3" MAF pipe and our lightweight battery kit. Another 20 pounds saved over the factory weight (now the car is 62 pounds lighter than stock). This surprised myself, the 6 customers and Al. 14 whp gain. Bringing the total up to 274 whp. The boost was more stable and higher at the end of the pull but peak was still right around 20 psi. NO reflash needed. This is the same thing we found out before. Our Stages 0-2 all use the same flash with no adjustments needed, saves you guys money.

To convert this to our old 2wd Dynojet numbers we would have seen 323.32, again right in line with what we saw on my 2004 RS.

I will post the dyno sheets tomorrow if I get a chance.

Next round of testing is going to be Stage 3, which is our Deluxe FMIC, HKS 272 cams AND we are going to put the fuel pump in at the same time. Al put a base Stage 3 flash in before he left today and I had him flash it for a pump upgrade while he was in there. I don't want the flashing to hold up finishing off this project.

We are probably going to be adding the fuel pump to our Stage 3 and cancelling what we referred to as Stage 4, that was a pump and injectors. The injectors just aren't needed with the stock turbo.

Hope you guys are enjoying the testing.

David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com

 

I know I am!

Can't wait to see the dyno sheets.

Keith

 

hmmmm, im runnin stage 3 and i only have 270whp 280ft lbs, whats with this? wonder what you will get with your stage 3. but on a brighter side, i raced and beat a dodge viper last night

 

The difference very well could be the custom flash we were able to do here on the dyno. Nice thing is all of the future flashes should be much more powerful than anything in the past now that we are re-tuning on the new dyno.

What we are doing now will be the BR flash for our parts from now on.

What dyno did you dyno 270/280 on?

David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com

 

Does the Mustang Dyno put more load on the engine than the Dynojet? How do either one of them compare to the load on the street?

Last weekend I dynoed my car on an AWD Dynojet and was surprised to find that the dyno seemed to put more load on the car than actually driving on the street. I expected the exact reverse. The car seemed to run leaner and be more knock prone on the dyno than it was immediately before and after the dyno on the street. I have a wideband in the car and also a Blitz Power Meter which estimates power at the wheels based on car weight (which you input) and reading the speed sensor. It generally reads very consistently, but if you go up a hill it will show a power loss (or down a hill, a power increase). On the dyno, I showed a 50 whp loss on that gauge, which tells me that the dyno is like driving up a really steep hill!

Anyhow, just wondering what anyone's thoughts were on this, or how a Mustang Dyno might compare.

Thanks.

 

The Mustang dyno has a load bank adjusted by the computer based on car weight and the amount of power it takes to drive that particular car modle down a flat road at 50 mph. Nothing is absolutly perfect, but it mimics road conditions a lot better than an inertial dyno. A 2WD dynojet does not load a car as much as driving on the road would, and an AWD dynojet loads a car more than driving the car on the road would.

An experianced tuner can compensate for this while tunning on the dyno to give you the most power and reliability on the street, but that will not give you the highest number on the dyno.... many customers are at the dyno for bragging rights and want the most power they can get on the dyno, even though it dosn't give them the most power on the street or on the track. Some dyno tuners do a "bragging rights" tune on the dyno, and then tweak the A/F ratio's and timing a bit to make it better for the street, but that takes more time and effort. With the mustang dyno the tune used on the dyno is the exact same tune you need for the street

Hope that helps,

Keith

PS: Hey Dave, got the dyno sheets yet?

 

Wow...so a Mustang Dyno loads the car less than an AWD Dynojet? That's good information because I thought the exact reverse was true. This is one way in which a 2WD Dynojet could be very misleading on an Evo, because you could tune more aggressively on the dyno than the street, whereas with an AWD Dynojet you can't tune as aggressively on the dyno as on the street, right? That's certainly what I found. Using my track tune on the AWD Dynojet gave me a spike of knock, which wasn't there in repeated street pulls that I did right before getting on the dyno, so I pull backed boost and added fuel. Then I got a clean pull but lost 12 whp. I guess on a 2WD Dynojet, I would have kept that 12 whp and probably been able to turn the wick up even more.

Does this all sound correct?

Thanks.

 

Your best bet is to do a really good, accurate road tune using your wide band, and some sort of data logging to check your timing advance. Either that or go to a tunner who is really experianced with their own particular dyno and knows how to compensate between the dyno and acutal road conditions. Best of all would be a load bearing dyno like the Mustang or the dyno dynamics style dyno.

Just my $.02,

Keith