headbolts toqure
A popular way to do the head bolts is to torque them to 75ft/lbs then head cycle the engine a couple times then retorque down to 85ft/lbs. The stock torque recommendations are for torque to yeild bolts. ARP bolts are not torque to yeild, so don't follow the Mitsu manual.
I was under the impression that the concept behind torque to yeild was that you torqued it down to a spec, then turned it a stated amount past that, regardless of torque. So, you might torque a bolt down to 50 ft/lbs and then turn it an extra 90 degrees.
I just put arp's in last weekend (torqued to 80) and today went through and retorqued them to 100. The funny thing was that none of them budged and I used the same wrench both times. Perhaps someone can explain how a bolt gets tighter over time? I've noticed the same thing happens wtih the cam gear to cam bolts and the oil filter always seems to come off more difficult than I spun it on. I understand heat expansion might have an effect, but the materials were roughly the same temperature when I torqued the head bolts.
I just put arp's in last weekend (torqued to 80) and today went through and retorqued them to 100. The funny thing was that none of them budged and I used the same wrench both times. Perhaps someone can explain how a bolt gets tighter over time? I've noticed the same thing happens wtih the cam gear to cam bolts and the oil filter always seems to come off more difficult than I spun it on. I understand heat expansion might have an effect, but the materials were roughly the same temperature when I torqued the head bolts.