Downpipe Leak ......
Originally Posted by GOKOU
This is what I need to do. Thanks a lot. Did you use stock DP bolt? BTW did you notice any difference in HP\TQ when the car had a DP leak??
Originally Posted by Syrihl
No, I used the short ones supplied by Buschur that came with the downpipe with some lock washers. I haven't dynoed the car at all yet so getting rid of the leak was more for my peace of mind. I'd suggest trying the silicone first before buying a new downpipe; it's a lot less expensive 
Thanks to everyone for the help.
Originally Posted by Syrihl
I had the same problem with the leak between the downpipe and O2 housing. Just get some orange hi-temp silicon gasket maker. Just apply it like glue between the downpipe and O2 housing and tighten them up and leave them for about 24 hours before driving. The specific brand I used was Permatex "Ultra Copper Sensor-safe High Temp RTV Silicone Gasket Maker" from Autozone. I haven't had a leak since then.
Thanks.
Originally Posted by vboy425
get the bolts replace and make sure you use high temperture gasket maker. I don't even have a gasket, i just uses that stuff work great
Originally Posted by GOKOU
Thanks. I'm asssuming this stuff which goes up to 700F??

Originally Posted by Syrihl
That's the exact same stuff I used and I haven't had any leaks since then. I even used it on some of the band clamps where I had other small leaks. Just use the correct bolts and lock washers that should have been included with the exhaust and follow the instructions on the silicone tube 
Thanks alot. Don't know where those bolts are at so I have to use some from ACE. I'm sure it should be similar.

If this doesn't work I might have to end up saling it.
Last edited by GOKOU; Oct 6, 2005 at 08:13 PM.
I'm in the same boat man.. I'm going to try the stuff in the pic above. I've also got some threadlock for the bolts so there is no chance of them coming loose.
The clamps didn't leak on me until I took them off and reused them. Also using air tools on the bracket will get it SUPER tight.
The clamps didn't leak on me until I took them off and reused them. Also using air tools on the bracket will get it SUPER tight.
Wait.. I've found something better I do believe.. good for up to 2000F too! As long as it doesn't seal the dp to the o2 housing it should be good. If anyone has used this stuff before please chime in 

PERMATEX® Muffler & Tailpipe Sealer
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Seals holes and leaks in mufflers, tailpipes and around joints. Makes new installations more secure. Resists temperatures to 2000°F (1000ÞC).


PERMATEX® Muffler & Tailpipe Sealer
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Seals holes and leaks in mufflers, tailpipes and around joints. Makes new installations more secure. Resists temperatures to 2000°F (1000ÞC).
Last edited by justchil; Oct 8, 2005 at 08:32 PM.
Originally Posted by justchil
Wait.. I've found something better I do believe.. good for up to 2000F too! As long as it doesn't seal the dp to the o2 housing it should be good. If anyone has used this stuff before please chime in 

PERMATEX® Muffler & Tailpipe Sealer
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Seals holes and leaks in mufflers, tailpipes and around joints. Makes new installations more secure. Resists temperatures to 2000°F (1000ÞC).


PERMATEX® Muffler & Tailpipe Sealer
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Seals holes and leaks in mufflers, tailpipes and around joints. Makes new installations more secure. Resists temperatures to 2000°F (1000ÞC).
Well I tried the orange stuff yesterday and started the car this morning and it was still leaking. I put some more on it and left it to dry. I don't think it's going to work though. The DP seems warped.
Once this stuff drys it sticks. I had to pry the downpipe off this morning to put some more on it. I'm tire of this!!!! It's going to cost at least over $100 to get this thing fix if I take it to a performance shop
I might end up getting a new TB
Originally Posted by GOKOU
Hmm I didn't see this. Good luck to you. Did you notice any difference in performance from the leak?
Well I tried the orange stuff yesterday and started the car this morning and it was still leaking. I put some more on it and left it to dry. I don't think it's going to work though. The DP seems warped.
Once this stuff drys it sticks. I had to pry the downpipe off this morning to put some more on it. I'm tire of this!!!! It's going to cost at least over $100 to get this thing fix if I take it to a performance shop
I might end up getting a new TB 
Well I tried the orange stuff yesterday and started the car this morning and it was still leaking. I put some more on it and left it to dry. I don't think it's going to work though. The DP seems warped.
Once this stuff drys it sticks. I had to pry the downpipe off this morning to put some more on it. I'm tire of this!!!! It's going to cost at least over $100 to get this thing fix if I take it to a performance shop
I might end up getting a new TB 
I couldn't really notice any loss in performance (maybe just a lil bit down low) but I'm not really sure how bad it was leaking. The noise is what bothered me.
Did you give it enough to dry man? Most of that stuff is for low pressure leaks.. so either you need to try something different.. or give it a longer dry time. I also plan to threadlock the bolts so there is no chance of those coming loose.
Is DP the new style that has the flange where it meets with the cat/test pipe? I have the new style and ended up using a gasket at the flange right before my test pipe. Not sure if this is helping to absorb some of the shock or not..
Ok back to bed for me
Did you give it enough to dry man? Most of that stuff is for low pressure leaks.. so either you need to try something different.. or give it a longer dry time. I also plan to threadlock the bolts so there is no chance of those coming loose.
Is DP the new style that has the flange where it meets with the cat/test pipe? I have the new style and ended up using a gasket at the flange right before my test pipe. Not sure if this is helping to absorb some of the shock or not..
Ok back to bed for me
Originally Posted by justchil
I couldn't really notice any loss in performance (maybe just a lil bit down low) but I'm not really sure how bad it was leaking. The noise is what bothered me.
Did you give it enough to dry man? Most of that stuff is for low pressure leaks.. so either you need to try something different.. or give it a longer dry time. I also plan to threadlock the bolts so there is no chance of those coming loose.
Is DP the new style that has the flange where it meets with the cat/test pipe? I have the new style and ended up using a gasket at the flange right before my test pipe. Not sure if this is helping to absorb some of the shock or not..
Ok back to bed for me
Did you give it enough to dry man? Most of that stuff is for low pressure leaks.. so either you need to try something different.. or give it a longer dry time. I also plan to threadlock the bolts so there is no chance of those coming loose.
Is DP the new style that has the flange where it meets with the cat/test pipe? I have the new style and ended up using a gasket at the flange right before my test pipe. Not sure if this is helping to absorb some of the shock or not..
Ok back to bed for me
Ahh sorry I didn't think that you waited lol. My old style dp leaked really bad (it was warped as well) I had it replaced when a local shop screwed it up. I haven't actually taken off the newer style one that I have now.. so I'm not really sure it has warped or not.
I do know the bolt cam loose and it was leaking.. after being tightened the leak stop.. so I'll keep my fingers crossed.
I do know the bolt cam loose and it was leaking.. after being tightened the leak stop.. so I'll keep my fingers crossed.
I was wondering if anyone used a gasket between the 02 housing and the BR 3" downpipe? Anyone know where I can get a gasket that can be use. I want to try this out before fixing the flange or getting rid of the BR DP
THanks.
THanks.




