I did the "in car" hotside install (without removing the turbo).

The Waste Gate Actuator Arm won't quite reach the Hot Side Waste Gate Pin for reassembly (how come nothin's ever easy?)

1/8" more will likely do the trick.

Where is the best place to adjust it?

There are two bolts as you look down to the Actuator, one below the other. They look like the mounting points for the assembly, but I haven't looked it up in the manual yet. Plus, even though they are on the cool side of the turbo, I'd prefer not to have to loosen anything there, if possible.

There is also what looks to be an adjustment nut at the top of the WGA arm that holds the rectangle connector to the WG.

Anybody have to make an adjustment here to get things back together/ OR / is there a common adjustment point or method that would allow the arm to be slightly lengthened?

Thanks for any help

 

Bump for help

 

I tried and tried to adjust it to make it fit without any luck. SO, I took those bolts out that you are talking about. Do it from under the car!!!! I believe you can do it by taking the bottom one out and just loosening the top one ( I removed both). That will give you enough play to get the rod onto where it goes...then you can just tighten the top bolt back up and put the lower bolt back in. It's a lot easier that beating the crap out of your hands trying to pry it on from the top.

 

This shouldn't be a big deal. Just loosen the lock nut and unscrew the actuator it a little. You do want some preload though. It shouldn't just slide on the pin without pulling it some. Maybe 1/4 pin preload or so.

 

just pull a little harder... its supposed to be like that..

 

I pulled pretty hard.

Never messed with the actuator before, so I don't know what will and won't damage the mechanism in the actuator.

The tab and bolt on the lever looked like the obvious chioce, assuming the tab has enough threads left to stay tight. (heat cylcling issues seem like a possibility with that though).

just losening the bolts on the comressor looked like an option, but I was having resevations about putting strain on the housing that wasn't there when it was spec'd out, and might lead to tensil strength failure (not like I'm an engineer or something) But that housing looks a fragile in that respect. I now that it can withstand high temps, but stress under those temps might be a different story.

I'll look further in the manual and wait for a few more folks to weigh in and see what the consensus is.

Anybody know the prescribed way the "Manual" says to adjust this assembly?

Thanks again for the help, I at least have a place to start.

 

i have done this job many times i know what i am talking about... you have to pull really hard... but hey, read your manual...

 

I wouldn't adjust it to get it on. You do want the preload, especially with how evo's taper in the higher RPM's. Just get a friend to help you get it on and like farmer said, pull really hard.

 

As a matter of fact; I would loosen the two mounting bolts and push the accuator down and toward the driverside to get a bit more preload, then tighten those bolts and pull the accuator rod the 3-5mm it takes to get it to go over the wastegate arm.

 

That's cool, I appreciate the advice.

Thanks again

 

how long does it take everyone to swap to the 10.5 hotside?

 

As much as I appreciate the original write up, I'm doing a detailed review of the process, there are some clarifications that might help first timers in the exhaust/turbo area. I believe I could do it in the 3 - 4 hour range, maybe less if I had to. I work slowly and carefully and still wack things sometimes.

Lower splash gaurd removal in not required, not is removing the radiator, BUT proctecting the radiator is a REALLY GOOD idea. I was careful, but getting the lower heatshiel out can be tough on the pristine radiator fins. If you decide to do it before I post it, PM me and I'll send you what I have done so far. Between the original and my notes, it'll be fairly easy.

 

you have to manhandle it!!!!!!!!!! i have done 2 of these IN CAR.

also if you don't want to have as much taper in the high rpm's, turn the actuator turnbuckle all the way down as far as it will go, then re-align it on the turbo. you have about 3/8-1/2" of play on the spring. what we did is wedged a needle nose or 10mm bolt underneath the turnbuckle bell so that we wouldn't have to keep pulling on it to align it. you will have to turn your boost controller DOWN & readjust since the car will hold boost longer. i accidentally spiked my stock turbo to 37PSI (with no turbo failure) before turning my MBC back down.

 

use a small pair of vise-grips to pull it up, have your buddy align it and it will fall into place. It is a b!tch but it should fit.

 

^^^good thing your BOV leaked out some boost. i bet you got that ball in your throat and your heart dropped for a few seconds there.