The lower IC pipe that comes with the deluxe FMIC from Buschur does NOT have a nipple which T's off to the actuator and whatnot. WTF do I do with that hose???!!!

Thanks!

 

I'm not running an MBC, though I have it to install. I have a Works P2 flash so I don't need the damn thing. Something tells me that will let me ignore/reroute that hose.

Any help?

 

I drilled and tapped mine. You can get the barb with an npt fitting at Home Depot and the plumbing thread tap from Sears.

 

Not at this damned hour with the car in pieces... any other input???

 

just run it back up in the engine bay and tee it in at the BOV, problem solved .

 

OK, done.

That was a ***** - the lower IC install recommends removing the starter which, after a while, I deemed impossible with my tools and the car on jackstands. So, of course, the actuator couldn't come out either.

I went at it with a tilting-head socket wrench and those hinged extenders so I could get at the work at an angle. Took more time but it actually worked.

The real problem is that the new turbo outlet pipe (part of the lower IC that comes with the FMIC is thicker and the socket would wedge between the head of the bolt and the pipe itself. Pain ... I added another lockwasher to it in an attempt to get away from the weld in case that was causing some problem in getting the socket seated all the way on the boltheads. I finally got it on to my satisfaction.

Now to the MBC. First, remember I have a Works P2 that's now useless for boost management because that nipple's gone from the turbo outlet pipe. I was forced to change to an MBC. I got the lines all cut, etc. Went to the auto store to get more lines, T's clamps, etc. (guy there was useless). But I did manage to get it all done. I had already fab'd a boost leak tester and got to work with it. Because all I have is an air tank I could never really get her up to alot of boost. I got a fluttering noise from the MBC (Forge) and the pinhole in the MBC seemed to ALWAYS leak air. So I changed to the stiffer spring. No real change there but it was 12:30 so I gave up.

Next AM took her off the stands and fired her up. I quickly found the gauge swinging to 25 psi in a hard way so let off, popped the hood and started turning her down. Even down all the way she wanted to go there. Dunno if it's a spike or whether it wants to stay there but I'm not gonna find out. I'm going back to the softer spring today, in the meantime I stayed out of the upper regions of boost for driving around yesterday.

I'm wondering in the back of my mind if the P2 flash is somehow creating an overboost when the MBC is on. I hope I'm not stuck with like 14 psi boost w/the weaker spring or some such crap either ... this all feels like wild experimentation ... LOL!

But, hey, I'm learning and haven't blown anything up yet!

 

You didn't have to use an MBC. You could have tee'd off the BOV line and ran that to the stock boost solenoid.

As for the small pinhole in the MBC. They all have that and they are there to bleed off pressure.

 

I had the same problem and found a post from david buschur saying to leave the hose that was connected to the turbo outlet vent.He says the only reason It was hooked up there is because they can't vent it from the factory.
I didn't find that until after I eliminated the "T" and ran a "T" off the BOV to the solenoid and then straight to the wastegate.Then I was only able to get about 12psi.So I install a MBC in place of the solenoid and now I'm running 20psi.

 

Crap - and all the BS I've been thru ... just changed springs, out for a drive ... Grrrrrr...

 

OK, lighter spring tightened most of the way has got me peaking around 21.5. My P2 flash had me at 23 every once in a while. However, I seem to be holding boost better. The needle fluctuates by 2-3 psi and settles in w/in 0.5-1.0 psi of peak that I've seen for now.

... at least as far as I can tell. I'm pretty busy holdin' on to the wheel. I've not been without leaks since before the cams, intake and FMIC ...

But is there another spring? The weakest setting for the tighter spring had me up around 25 and I wasn't willing to see if it was going to go higher ... I'd like to think I can dump some 100+ octane in this thing from time to time and add a PSI or 2... or 3.

 

Sorry to hear you are having problems.

You are not suppose to re-use the factory 12 mm head bolts to install the lower i/c pipe. You use the supplied allen head bolts which are smaller diameter and fit correctly. Atleast you got it on and have no leaks!

The boost controller. Someone else was correct. Just install a "t" into the BOV line and run the boost input from that.

David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com

 

if you get the forge wastegate actuator it comes with a variety of springs so you can mix and match for maximum adjustability.

 

Thanks Dave - my bad! Good showing at MOD '05, btw!

 

I don't mean the actuator - I mean the Forge MBC. It comes with 2 springs. The stiffer one seems to start somewhere about 25psi or more and the softer one stops perhaps just before it. I really haven't done that work. But if I eventually have real maps for race gas vs. pump I'd need to change from 21ish to 25+ potentially which, it seems, would require a spring change. Kind of a pain on race day. Just wondering if there's an intermediate spring for the MBC...