Why don't stroked motors last?
Originally Posted by joeycoates
Shiv will be here to tune (in Dallas) not this weekend but next so I will have some numbers then.
As an aside, I went driving with the local Porsche club up in the Arkasas mountains two weeks ago. Right now I have it set pretty rich (10.5-10.7 or so in the upper end) just to make sure it is safe, and I backed off the timing a bit and was only running 20 lbs. None the less I was more then able to keep up with the fastest of the Porsche's on the run (2002 996tt X50 with Moton's) and I found myself running 4000-6500 rpm's just about the whole time exept when passing. I hit 20 lbs at around 2600-2800 rpm so any time I touched the gas pedal I had instant boost. The point is my powerband is VERY flexable, I never found myself having to downshift to pull out of corners and I could more then keep up with not only the other Porsche's, but any road condition which presented itself. Like I said, I have my car set up for the street, as a matter of fact my car has not even been on a track (yet). I can appretiate having a high strung 2.0 with a big turbo, but that would not fit my goals. I know that there are cars out there, even a lot of other Evo's, that would rape me on a highway pull, but if we are just accelerating from a stoplight in a normal fashion and we both get on it I will hand a lot of other cars their as$.
I will have some dyno number to show before long though....
Mods:
2.3 stroker
Light head work (mainly I blended the bowls and removed casting flash in both the ports and chambers with 1mm larger valves in/ex)
HKS 272's in/ex
Works valve spring/retainers
Cam gears
FP White Rabbit
TBE w/resonating test pipe
Upper/Lower piping
Xede/XFlash (boost cut removed and 7800 rpm redline)
Greddy Type S
AEM intake (wanted to stay stock but upper pipe would not allow)
SSautochrome header w/2000 degree JetHot coating. (cracked once and had rewelded after I temporarily put stock mani back on and FELT a loss)
O2 housing
I think that's all of the engine mods.....
As an aside, I went driving with the local Porsche club up in the Arkasas mountains two weeks ago. Right now I have it set pretty rich (10.5-10.7 or so in the upper end) just to make sure it is safe, and I backed off the timing a bit and was only running 20 lbs. None the less I was more then able to keep up with the fastest of the Porsche's on the run (2002 996tt X50 with Moton's) and I found myself running 4000-6500 rpm's just about the whole time exept when passing. I hit 20 lbs at around 2600-2800 rpm so any time I touched the gas pedal I had instant boost. The point is my powerband is VERY flexable, I never found myself having to downshift to pull out of corners and I could more then keep up with not only the other Porsche's, but any road condition which presented itself. Like I said, I have my car set up for the street, as a matter of fact my car has not even been on a track (yet). I can appretiate having a high strung 2.0 with a big turbo, but that would not fit my goals. I know that there are cars out there, even a lot of other Evo's, that would rape me on a highway pull, but if we are just accelerating from a stoplight in a normal fashion and we both get on it I will hand a lot of other cars their as$.
I will have some dyno number to show before long though....
Mods:
2.3 stroker
Light head work (mainly I blended the bowls and removed casting flash in both the ports and chambers with 1mm larger valves in/ex)
HKS 272's in/ex
Works valve spring/retainers
Cam gears
FP White Rabbit
TBE w/resonating test pipe
Upper/Lower piping
Xede/XFlash (boost cut removed and 7800 rpm redline)
Greddy Type S
AEM intake (wanted to stay stock but upper pipe would not allow)
SSautochrome header w/2000 degree JetHot coating. (cracked once and had rewelded after I temporarily put stock mani back on and FELT a loss)
O2 housing
I think that's all of the engine mods.....
Originally Posted by Ted B
What is a proven issue however is the increased velocity of the air charge (due to increased piston acceleration) crosses the threshold of laminar port flow at an earlier point (lower rpm), which makes port efficiency an increasingly greater issue as piston acceleration is increased with a smaller rod/stroke ratio.
In the case of dwell time, you have to consider the magnitude of actual change. There is very little dwell time change with changes in rod ratio. It is in the lower single digit percentages for stock 4G63 to 2.4L stroker 4G63.
To crutch a head with a long rod takes:
1) A heavily taxed head to begin with (right at or just over the limit)
2) A very large change in rod length. Small changes just don't do anything.
Virtually all 4G63s in steet use do not have heavily taxed heads, neither does stroking them change rod ratio a whole lot.
All this talk about crutching heads arose decades ago when domestic heads were junk and and you have many block height options with those engines that allow you to run a very wide range of rod ratios especially if the class displacement limit was small.
Things are very different today - especially with modern multivalve high performance heads and not many options on block height.
Originally Posted by atlvalet
This is the direction I'll be taking eventually. I don't need a bigger turbo, and your description of how the car drives is exactly what I'm looking for.
Thanks,
FB
Originally Posted by joeycoates
I am running an ACT street disk. I have actually used an Exedy twin but I did not like the chattering or the sudden take-up. I sometimes use my wife SUV when hunting or going to our farm and she just could not drive the Exedy, and this is after driving a stick for five plus years. So like I said I went to an ACT.
That being said if I downshift to say third and give it gas while releasing the clutch it will slip sometimes until I let off and give it a chance to catch up, but overall I really like it because it drives like stock (like I have stressed, this is a street driven car and I do not want to put up with anything that makes the car more difficult to drive) but I do believe that with the stroked engine and the tq level that I think I am getting to, it may be a wee bit stressed. I have thought about a sprung six puck to increase the lbs per sq/in on the disk, but I have driven an unsprung six puck and it was BAD. If the sprung six puck does not have the terrible chattering takeup of the unsprung then I may slip it in there next time. I hate doing the clutch on these cars, it will be about the fourth or fifth time I have done one, but what the hell, it is just a good Saturdays work!
I will however wait until the ACT street disk I have in now is done befroe I crack that nut open again....
That being said if I downshift to say third and give it gas while releasing the clutch it will slip sometimes until I let off and give it a chance to catch up, but overall I really like it because it drives like stock (like I have stressed, this is a street driven car and I do not want to put up with anything that makes the car more difficult to drive) but I do believe that with the stroked engine and the tq level that I think I am getting to, it may be a wee bit stressed. I have thought about a sprung six puck to increase the lbs per sq/in on the disk, but I have driven an unsprung six puck and it was BAD. If the sprung six puck does not have the terrible chattering takeup of the unsprung then I may slip it in there next time. I hate doing the clutch on these cars, it will be about the fourth or fifth time I have done one, but what the hell, it is just a good Saturdays work!
I will however wait until the ACT street disk I have in now is done befroe I crack that nut open again....
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