I have some plans for 20g turbo and I want to make sure my engine can hold. I will be pusing around 350-400hp on street setup and around 500 on race setup. Currently the only internals I have upgraded are the cams. I was thinking of purchasing the following:

ARP Head/Main Studs
AMS spec stock bore and compression ratio Ross Racing Pistons
Eagle Rods
Crower Valve Springs and Titanium Retainer

I'll also try to get some port/polishing of the head as well. Any other suggestions on this build up?

Few more questions maybe someone can give some input:

With the cost of pistons, rods etc.. a few hundred more will get me a stroker kit. Will it be worth it with a 20g?

Will 750cc injectors be enough for for 500whp?

 

for 350 to 400 you dont need to rebuild..ported head wouldnt hurt, but rebuild why?..4g63 2nd strongest japanese motor made next to supra

 

My opinion and comments.

 

If you take it apart you minds well remove the balance shafts, balance internals, and for $700 more do the stroker if you have the cash. OR like the poster above said, if thats all your going to do then leave the bottom end alone and spend the money on a clutch a TRE trans.

 

How do you figure. He will need a new crankshaft for a stroker. He will also need the block clearanced. This will also require the removal of balance shafts and the internals balanced. This will ultimately add up.

If you chose to remove the balance shafts you will run the risk of an oil pump failure if it is done in the traditional manner.

I would not leave the bottom end alone at 500whp. You will break a piston, it is only a matter of time. The pistons are by far the weakest link in the bottom end.

 

thanks for the input. just drop in some new pistons and rods and build the head a bit seems like a plan As for swapping the cams out I am very happy with my hks 280's. I have 0 driveability issues. I must have a freak of a car because everyone is amazed on how well my car idles and performs with the hks 280's.

 

i plan on running at 500awhp and this will be a daily driver... Pistons and rods are not very expensive. Having to get a new block because a stock rod or piston decided to pop is really expensive.

 

will the 20g make 500hp since buschur can only get about 400 out of it on race gas with a built head and bottom end?

 

i doubt ur gonna be able to push 500whp out of the 20g even with race gas

 

with couple things i have planned I am pretty confident i will be able to reach that goal.

 

Joey,
Here is my 2 cents:
First, I think if you do all this work to your bottom end, you might be disappointed with gains you end up getting with the 20g. If you go with the stroker, at least you gain a tremendous amount of grunt and spoolup. That will make you feel happy after dropping so much cash.

Also, don't underestimate the need for top notch machine work and assembly. The road is littered with failed rebuilds and rebuilds that burn excessive amounts of oil. If you have a reputable shop do it, make sure they will stand behind it for build related failures or problems.

I agree with Timzcat about porting the head. My numbers below are with stock head, stock valves, stock valve springs, stock intake manifold, stock throttle body, stock maf, and 3 inch intake piping. At 27 psi! Save your money on the head-related work and get the stroker kit.

750cc injectors will get you to 500 no problem if you are using the stock ECU. For some reason that I still don't fully understand many folks claim that the AEM ems injector drivers are not as efficient as the stock ECU. So if you are going with an AEM, go with 880s. I have AMS 880cc injectors with the stock ECU and they are fine at 540whp and 492wtq (but the Walbro 255 is close to its limit).

 

+1

 

Timzcat,

The total cost of machine work from my build was $1000, which included a .020 cylinder bore, decking the block, a valve job, balancing the crankshft, gapping the rings, and hanging the pistons on the rods, chearances, and all the other little things I'm not thinking of.

I am very interested into looking into your claim of oil pump failure due to the removal of balance shafts. This topic came up in relation to Ferrarokid's engine failure in the USCC but that was the first time I had ever heard of it. Could you point me to any discussion of this issue that you know of?

IMHO, us mortals on the boards often get incorrect information about the causes of engine failures. I hardly blame tuners and shops for being misleading, as so many members are looking for any excuse to flame them. However, over and over again, I hear of the reasons of engine failures being things like fuel slosh, oil pump, fuel pump went out, bad gas, EBC got stuck on 40psi, etc. Sure, sometimes it is true, but many times it is just convenient excuse to save face.

Smoggy

 

+1, I too am very interested in more about the oil pump failure due to the removal of balance shafts....

 

You will not reach 500hp to the wheels on a 20g...you will need a turbo upgrade...unless you boost like 3,298 psi