made list of next mods to get...any suggestions or comments?
Originally Posted by Ultimate CC
Depending on the tune 300whp 290tq but it really depends on tune and dyno. More importantly you will bei n the 12s with those mods
all of those mods dont sound too $$ at all!
im just doing rough figures in my head now
downpipe..$200
test pipe or hi flow cat...lets say $200 also
02 housing $200
tanabe springs $200
mbc $100
jdm mr bov $200
fuel pump $100
lower intercooler pipe...$200
thats under $1,500!
even though these are bolt on parts, do i have to get it tuned at a shop? if so can u explain further more. i guess the step after all those are in would be to do the ecu.
im going to try my hardest to NOT upgrade the turbo lol...its my wallet vs my heart hehe
once again thanks for the help bro
Try this buy some parts used. Its what I did.
RSR downpipe (180 used but mint)- kills two birds one stone by deleting your cat as well
Don't bother with 02 housing, really not that noticable and a pain to install.
Tanabe (200 new)
mbc (50 used- i wouldn't even bother buying new)
jdm mr bov (80 used- once again why bother new, as long as it doesn't have 50k on it you be fine)
fuel pump (60 used)
LICP (120 to 150 used- I picked up ams LICP for 130 shipped)
Now thats under 700. Take that extra money and pick up a set of GSC 272 cams and ARP headstuds for about 550 shipped and get that baby tuned. It will be a whole different beast with cams.
RSR downpipe (180 used but mint)- kills two birds one stone by deleting your cat as well
Don't bother with 02 housing, really not that noticable and a pain to install.
Tanabe (200 new)
mbc (50 used- i wouldn't even bother buying new)
jdm mr bov (80 used- once again why bother new, as long as it doesn't have 50k on it you be fine)
fuel pump (60 used)
LICP (120 to 150 used- I picked up ams LICP for 130 shipped)
Now thats under 700. Take that extra money and pick up a set of GSC 272 cams and ARP headstuds for about 550 shipped and get that baby tuned. It will be a whole different beast with cams.
INTAKE & EXHUAST
RSR Downpipe
Greddy EVO2 Catback
HKS RS Intake
ELECTRONICS
UTEC
Blitz SBC ID Boost Controller
ENGINE
GSC Cams (272i, 272e)
MR BOV
APC Oil Breather Filter
LPI UICP
AMS LICP
ARP Head studs
FUEL
Walbro Fuel Pump
TRANSMISSION
EXTERIOR
JDM ver7 Taillights
S2K Antenna
20% Tints
Black Headlights
Black Decal Diamond Emblems
Painted Black Stock Wheels
SUSPENSION
Tanabe GF 210 Lowering Springs
I got all that for 2600 right now. Some stuff I did myself though so that saved some dough. Now I have smc alky on the way and then its time for a tune. Down the road I plan to pick up a wideband, motor mounts and shifter bushings.
RSR Downpipe
Greddy EVO2 Catback
HKS RS Intake
ELECTRONICS
UTEC
Blitz SBC ID Boost Controller
ENGINE
GSC Cams (272i, 272e)
MR BOV
APC Oil Breather Filter
LPI UICP
AMS LICP
ARP Head studs
FUEL
Walbro Fuel Pump
TRANSMISSION
EXTERIOR
JDM ver7 Taillights
S2K Antenna
20% Tints
Black Headlights
Black Decal Diamond Emblems
Painted Black Stock Wheels
SUSPENSION
Tanabe GF 210 Lowering Springs
I got all that for 2600 right now. Some stuff I did myself though so that saved some dough. Now I have smc alky on the way and then its time for a tune. Down the road I plan to pick up a wideband, motor mounts and shifter bushings.
Originally Posted by Ultimate CC
Try this buy some parts used. Its what I did.
RSR downpipe (180 used but mint)- kills two birds one stone by deleting your cat as well
Don't bother with 02 housing, really not that noticable and a pain to install.
Tanabe (200 new)
mbc (50 used- i wouldn't even bother buying new)
jdm mr bov (80 used- once again why bother new, as long as it doesn't have 50k on it you be fine)
fuel pump (60 used)
LICP (120 to 150 used- I picked up ams LICP for 130 shipped)
Now thats under 700. Take that extra money and pick up a set of GSC 272 cams and ARP headstuds for about 550 shipped and get that baby tuned. It will be a whole different beast with cams.
RSR downpipe (180 used but mint)- kills two birds one stone by deleting your cat as well
Don't bother with 02 housing, really not that noticable and a pain to install.
Tanabe (200 new)
mbc (50 used- i wouldn't even bother buying new)
jdm mr bov (80 used- once again why bother new, as long as it doesn't have 50k on it you be fine)
fuel pump (60 used)
LICP (120 to 150 used- I picked up ams LICP for 130 shipped)
Now thats under 700. Take that extra money and pick up a set of GSC 272 cams and ARP headstuds for about 550 shipped and get that baby tuned. It will be a whole different beast with cams.
once again man thanks alot for the suggestions and help!
tanabes goes for a good price now. I bought mine new for 145 shipped . try to contack joe at higrev, if he has them in stock he will hook you up.
Last edited by evo_rc; Nov 18, 2005 at 11:14 PM.
also where do u buy the used parts from? from ebay or the forums? or both? after im done with this, ill eventually look into cams, manifolds and more $$ goodies lol.
and oh with the tanabe springs...how stiff is the suspension? big difference in cornering?
and oh with the tanabe springs...how stiff is the suspension? big difference in cornering?
I not sure on difference as I installed them at 250 miles haha along with a bunch of other mods. I buy most of my parts from local evo members or on here. If you are patient you will find what you need. I have been collecting parts since august at this point. Hopefully by xmas break I will have everything. I am just waiting mainly for TurboXS to release their speed density software and then I will be going for a tune.
I'm amazed by the spoon-feeding in this thread. This guy thinks he's learned a lot in this thread, but he could have learned 100X more if he even attempted to search a little. His listed combination of mods will not provide a lot of power, he thinks he gets tuned at a shop, and thinks he's supposed to get the JDM MR DV first before the MBC. He also will NOT have 290-300whp without a tune.
WJ4, right now, your car is slower than stock despite having spent 3k on frivolous things. If you add the other mods you originally listed, you would be maybe slightly faster than stock, but barely noticeable due to the extra weight. You also would have spent over $5k to achieve this. If you have any interest in actually making your car faster while not spending much money (I believe you do), then go this route:
- Hallman Pro MBC, Forge UNOS MBC, Turbosmart Tee = $85
- JDM MR DV = $110
- LICP (vendor of choice) = $170
- Megan downpipe = $150
- Megan test pipe = $80
- Walbro 255 = $85
- Mail-in Dynoflash for $199 (or flasher of your choice)
Those are all NEW prices and will cost <$900. After these mods, you _will_ be at 300whp on 93oct. As for the springs or coilovers, well, doing it just to get "that slammed look" makes me cringe. You are driving an Evo...it is a world-class performance machine. Have you raced it? Do you have any idea how to make use of its amazing handling, braking, and acceleration abilities? If you haven't yet raced your Evo and taken it to its extreme limits, then getting a suspension mod is useless. You would benefit much more by actually learning how to drive your Evo, and then getting a suspension setup that suits your abilities and needs. Suspension work isn't for looks...it's for improved handling.
Btw, nothing against Ultimate CC, who is being very nice and trying to help, but if you compare our times and mods, you kinda get the picture.
WJ4, right now, your car is slower than stock despite having spent 3k on frivolous things. If you add the other mods you originally listed, you would be maybe slightly faster than stock, but barely noticeable due to the extra weight. You also would have spent over $5k to achieve this. If you have any interest in actually making your car faster while not spending much money (I believe you do), then go this route:
- Hallman Pro MBC, Forge UNOS MBC, Turbosmart Tee = $85
- JDM MR DV = $110
- LICP (vendor of choice) = $170
- Megan downpipe = $150
- Megan test pipe = $80
- Walbro 255 = $85
- Mail-in Dynoflash for $199 (or flasher of your choice)
Those are all NEW prices and will cost <$900. After these mods, you _will_ be at 300whp on 93oct. As for the springs or coilovers, well, doing it just to get "that slammed look" makes me cringe. You are driving an Evo...it is a world-class performance machine. Have you raced it? Do you have any idea how to make use of its amazing handling, braking, and acceleration abilities? If you haven't yet raced your Evo and taken it to its extreme limits, then getting a suspension mod is useless. You would benefit much more by actually learning how to drive your Evo, and then getting a suspension setup that suits your abilities and needs. Suspension work isn't for looks...it's for improved handling.
Btw, nothing against Ultimate CC, who is being very nice and trying to help, but if you compare our times and mods, you kinda get the picture.
Yea I take no offense but that was with intake and exhaust my time. I know the intake hurts the time more than anything and I was definitely knocking which is why I picked up a ebc to turn it down. You also have a lot more practice at the track than I currently do. I have 5 passes under my belt 4 of which were all 13.0s and the my very first was a sick 14.01 something with a killer 2.3 60' haha. My first time at the track I had only owned the car for 3 months. I recently got rid of the stupid 5k limiter as well through disconnecting it and adding a UTEC. As far as springs go the tanabe gf210s are the best of the double edged swords that you can buy. They certainly make the car look better but its very debatable as far as performance goes. I don't mind putting them on gsr or rs but a MR i would never as the bilsteins are setup perfectly for the stock springs.
Originally Posted by Warrtalon
but if you compare our times and mods, you kinda get the picture.
Dude lets come down with the "im god's gift to earth". Pleanty of peple are getting tired of it man..
ERIK
Originally Posted by Warrtalon
I'm amazed by the spoon-feeding in this thread. This guy thinks he's learned a lot in this thread, but he could have learned 100X more if he even attempted to search a little. His listed combination of mods will not provide a lot of power, he thinks he gets tuned at a shop, and thinks he's supposed to get the JDM MR DV first before the MBC. He also will NOT have 290-300whp without a tune.
WJ4, right now, your car is slower than stock despite having spent 3k on frivolous things. If you add the other mods you originally listed, you would be maybe slightly faster than stock, but barely noticeable due to the extra weight. You also would have spent over $5k to achieve this. If you have any interest in actually making your car faster while not spending much money (I believe you do), then go this route:
- Hallman Pro MBC, Forge UNOS MBC, Turbosmart Tee = $85
- JDM MR DV = $110
- LICP (vendor of choice) = $170
- Megan downpipe = $150
- Megan test pipe = $80
- Walbro 255 = $85
- Mail-in Dynoflash for $199 (or flasher of your choice)
Those are all NEW prices and will cost <$900. After these mods, you _will_ be at 300whp on 93oct. As for the springs or coilovers, well, doing it just to get "that slammed look" makes me cringe. You are driving an Evo...it is a world-class performance machine. Have you raced it? Do you have any idea how to make use of its amazing handling, braking, and acceleration abilities? If you haven't yet raced your Evo and taken it to its extreme limits, then getting a suspension mod is useless. You would benefit much more by actually learning how to drive your Evo, and then getting a suspension setup that suits your abilities and needs. Suspension work isn't for looks...it's for improved handling.
Btw, nothing against Ultimate CC, who is being very nice and trying to help, but if you compare our times and mods, you kinda get the picture.
WJ4, right now, your car is slower than stock despite having spent 3k on frivolous things. If you add the other mods you originally listed, you would be maybe slightly faster than stock, but barely noticeable due to the extra weight. You also would have spent over $5k to achieve this. If you have any interest in actually making your car faster while not spending much money (I believe you do), then go this route:
- Hallman Pro MBC, Forge UNOS MBC, Turbosmart Tee = $85
- JDM MR DV = $110
- LICP (vendor of choice) = $170
- Megan downpipe = $150
- Megan test pipe = $80
- Walbro 255 = $85
- Mail-in Dynoflash for $199 (or flasher of your choice)
Those are all NEW prices and will cost <$900. After these mods, you _will_ be at 300whp on 93oct. As for the springs or coilovers, well, doing it just to get "that slammed look" makes me cringe. You are driving an Evo...it is a world-class performance machine. Have you raced it? Do you have any idea how to make use of its amazing handling, braking, and acceleration abilities? If you haven't yet raced your Evo and taken it to its extreme limits, then getting a suspension mod is useless. You would benefit much more by actually learning how to drive your Evo, and then getting a suspension setup that suits your abilities and needs. Suspension work isn't for looks...it's for improved handling.
Btw, nothing against Ultimate CC, who is being very nice and trying to help, but if you compare our times and mods, you kinda get the picture.
and ps half the parts u listed are already ordered so again thanks for the info