Question, how do you know where you are setting it. I spoke with Forge about the RS before I bought the MR and it sounded great but I don't want to worry about where mine is set, you know oops too many clicks. I like the idea of not having to set something and having a tiny bit of safety built in as well.

 

That's the beauty of it. You aren't relegated to a pre-set stiffness that may or may not work for your setup. For instance, I run 22psi on 93 oct in the Winter, and I have a 6spd, so my needs are different than your setup on 91oct. Also, there's a difference in needs between daily driving, drag racing, and road racing. The Forge allows you to FIND and CHOOSE the most optimal stiffness depending on your application. The fact that it has ratcheted clicks means you can easily reset the BOV according to the exact application once you've done your testing.

For instance, after I'm done testing for all 4 situations (daily, drag, auto-x, road), I will have the # of clicks from base (mininumu stiffness) recorded so that I can quickly and easily switch from one setting to the other whenever I do one of the above activities. It's a little more work, but the benefit is far more valuable than the work required...

 

Good info!

 

WT where are you at h.p. wise on 93?

 

I did 294/269 on 93 in 80-degrees with my current mods and just the S-AFC for tuning. In this mode, I ran 12.52@108.5 on my only attempt and with a below avg 60'. I then put in race gas and ran 12.0-12.1s, but haven't dynod on race gas.

Since then, I've added a base Dynoflash with the SAFC in reserve and ran 12.26@110.0 on 93oct in 55-degree weather. I was probably around 305/305 on that run, but I didn't dyno. I have now gone from a mail-in to a custom street tune, and the car is a monster. The tracks are closed, but I do plan on dyno'ing in the next month or so. It will be very cold, though, so that will raise the numbers a little.

 

What driveline loss do you figuire?

 

No clue. It's not a useful thing to determine, imo, because driveline loss is not linear. It may be 20% at my current state, but that doesn't mean it would be 20% when I get to 400whp.

 

Makes sense. Nothing like this is static. Rule of thumb says you are putting down some big numbers for the dollars!

 

Fletch any info why you want 2.5" turbo back instead of 3''?

 

I plan on keeping the stock Turbo, I also am keeping the stock cat (in case of cel's or the like I will put it back on). The interesting thing to me is after seeing the o2 casting close up which is much smaller outlet than 3", in fact the id is 2-3/8-2-1/2 Max. So why do you need a 3" all the way back with a stock turbo and 02 mani when they are smaller than that? Now if you have a bigger turbo, o2 mani and cams then go for it. Just seems overkill for my application, and after seeing the fit of the 2.5 I can't imagine a 3" dp fitting this well. Just my opinion we will see what Al thinks after driving my car Sun. Maybe I am dead wrong. Iwas also told that exhaust temp and velocity are crucial to the state of tune and cat working correctly.

 

Yea i guess most people do 3" so they don't have to upgrade again, I am sure most people who do mods on here plan on eventually changing turbos, and even more plan on getting cams and upping the boost. I think with a 2.5 you would see some quicker spool too, but maybe I am wrong. I have never even drove an Evo.

 

Tell us more about these 2:
HKS DLI2 Ignition
Ralliart Plug Wires

Do you get a crispier response on the throttle? I doubt it that you actually get more hp.

 

These are the power combo (get a stinger SP1000 Battery and you will have the power trio, see my earlier posts). The Ralliart plug wires are low resistance and offer oem fit. The DLI2 is one of the best ignition options out there and it is truly plug and play. It is not cheap by any stretch but the idle and throttle response were notably better (you can't even hear the motor at idle, just the thump of exhaust) it truly is impressive.
The battery is a very low resistance replacement using virgin lead plates and is sealed. It is not much lighter but has way more reserves and it's ultra low resistance means all things that drain your battery have instant power and reserve (including stereo). This power trio has to be tried. All told you will spend about $850 about 1k including plugs but if you want some of the best stuff.....you have to pay!

 

Oh sorry I forgot. The ignition will not make h.p.. But it frees up what is already there through an almost perfect combustion cycle. That's why many see a slight increase in gas milage (more efficient).

 

Hey WarrTalon, what spark plug wires do you use?? OEM, right??
I have always used OEM spark plug wires since I learned that most of the fastest honda drag racer use OEM spark plug wires and most JDM tuners use OEM spark plug wires, even if they make spark plug wires.