My First Dyno Runs !
My First Dyno Runs !
'03 EVO
Buschur 3" TBE, APS Cold Air Intake, and AMS Lower IC Pipe.
Hallman MBC - 18 PSI falling to 15 by redline....anyone got any ideas why its dropping so much?!
Why do you guys think ? I was pretty impressed actually for the amount of boost.
yea this whole time it seemed like my boost controller was holding boost pretty good.
but once they put it on the dyno...it wouldnt hold worth a crap.
im pretty sure i will be close to 300whp at 20+ psi that HOLDS to redline ?
but once they put it on the dyno...it wouldnt hold worth a crap.
im pretty sure i will be close to 300whp at 20+ psi that HOLDS to redline ?
Pretty crappy actually. It's on smoothing 5 and still is very jagged. Also, it's on STD with a 1.04 correction, so the real numbers are even lower. You should show us the torque or better yet, zip and attach the run files, so I can show some comparisons. The Dynojet is not load-bearing, so maybe that's why your boost was reading lower.
You have some nice mods, but it makes no sense to have all that and no tune...
Your uncorrected numbers are:
247.8 whp
259.6 whp
You have some nice mods, but it makes no sense to have all that and no tune...
Your uncorrected numbers are:
247.8 whp
259.6 whp
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well listen to this, forgot to add this at post, ive got an S-AFCII and LM-1...wtf is going on?! this crap sucks.
we did one run and it laid down 257. he told me i was running reallyy rich(i was trying to be safe when i tried to tune it myself) so he messed with it a little bit and got it to 270.
he said i was still running really rich and that i need a fuel pump bad. he also recommended a elec boost controller....
wow.
i just wanna get my stuff running the way it should be..
we did one run and it laid down 257. he told me i was running reallyy rich(i was trying to be safe when i tried to tune it myself) so he messed with it a little bit and got it to 270.
he said i was still running really rich and that i need a fuel pump bad. he also recommended a elec boost controller....
wow.
i just wanna get my stuff running the way it should be..
when i did a couple of runs before i got it dynoed from 3-5k it was around 11-11.1 and then from 5-7.4k it was like 10.9-11.0
im thinking that has a little to do with why my readings are a little low.
im thinking that has a little to do with why my readings are a little low.
You don't need a fuel pump or EBC, but leaving out your tuning device in your mod list is a bit remiss. You have to remember what I said above about how Dynojets are not load-bearing. Your tune won't be the same on the Dynojet as it will be on the road with full load. Your boost also won't be exactly the same. 10 and below is pretty rich, unless you're on 91oct. If you're on 93oct, you should be shooting for 21psi and 11.3-11.5 AFRs, but you also have to log timing to make sure everything is kosher. You can't just shoot for a certain AFR - timing is critical.
We need to see your torque curves, too, not only the WHP. I'm guessing your peak torque was 20-30 lower than peak HP.
We need to see your torque curves, too, not only the WHP. I'm guessing your peak torque was 20-30 lower than peak HP.
Originally Posted by Warrtalon
You don't need a fuel pump or EBC, but leaving out your tuning device in your mod list is a bit remiss. You have to remember what I said above about how Dynojets are not load-bearing. Your tune won't be the same on the Dynojet as it will be on the road with full load. Your boost also won't be exactly the same. 10 and below is pretty rich, unless you're on 91oct. If you're on 93oct, you should be shooting for 21psi and 11.3-11.5 AFRs, but you also have to log timing to make sure everything is kosher. You can't just shoot for a certain AFR - timing is critical.
We need to see your torque curves, too, not only the WHP. I'm guessing your peak torque was 20-30 lower than peak HP.
We need to see your torque curves, too, not only the WHP. I'm guessing your peak torque was 20-30 lower than peak HP.
Yeah, if you find a way to read/log timing along with your other tuning devices, let me know. It's a pain having to have separate logging devices, but the OBD-II is unavoidable.
No, you can't DIRECTLY adjust timing, but you need to see what's happening with the timing so that you can adjust your AFRs accordingly. Changes on the SAFC causes the ECU to use different timing maps, so you can INDIRECTLY control timing. The more fuel you remove (leaner), the more timing you get.
No, you can't DIRECTLY adjust timing, but you need to see what's happening with the timing so that you can adjust your AFRs accordingly. Changes on the SAFC causes the ECU to use different timing maps, so you can INDIRECTLY control timing. The more fuel you remove (leaner), the more timing you get.
If you dont have a flash get a flash that way your timing map will be a little more optimal than what it is also you can get rid of the boost taper. The car will feel much better and you will probably hit what your looking for