I managed to create a boost leak tester that worked pretty good (used a 2" rubber plumbing connection from Lowes that worked well). I cranked the boost up to about 75 psi, and it did leak down slowly at a rate of about 10 psi every two minutes to about 40 psi, where it pretty much held. No hissing noises I could hear.

But it's the stupid **** that makes the project fun. My lame tire pump was connected to the cig lighter power jack. They key was on while I was doing my test to power the pump. The computer must have seen my 75-80 psi. Now I'm staring at a "Service Engine Soon" light. Is there an eay way to kill this without taking it to a dealer and paying the diagnostics test fee?

I'm planning on a mail in Dynoflash in the not too distant future, I imagine that would kill it. Should I just wait it out until next month when I get the flash?

Is there a possibility that I did frak something up?

 

75 psi!!!!! holly crap
your only supposed to run 25psi or so for the test. whats the point on running 75psi in the system, where it will only see 20psi or so.

just reset the ecu, and the light will got away.

 

Go to your local autozone or pep boys and they will pull your code for free.

 

Go to autozone to see what the code is. If you just want to clear it, disconnect the negative cable to your battery for a few seconds.

 

I was having trouble making a good connection to the tire stem valve. When I did get a good one, the pressure shot up before I could find the switch (on the power cord) and shut off the pump.

I was almost certain I would find a leak, I have heard stories like "stock BOV's all leak over 13 psi", etc. I think I'm just going to reset it and see if it goes again. Then I'd be worried. It should be ok, it's not like the motor was running. I also had things like the air box unplugged, so it could get in a twist about that too. The computer definatly saw that, it could be my culprit vs the boost spike.