so here is a little story about my 03 evo, i just got back from iraq and had this money burning a hole in my pocket, so i decided MORE POWER, obviousley , but i might have gone to far, i justified buying a BBTO4R kit from PEAKBOOST because the lag would keep me well manared on the street...we shall see how that goes. Now i am having second thoughts about engine reliablility, drivetrain reliability, and just all of the other headaches that come with out EVO's how ever minor they our, the drive train issue is still a problem when somthing goes wrong. I have an brand new tranny and front diff, i got the newer ones, took care of that really bad whine my old tranny had (sounded like a COBRA inside) my supporting mods RnR turboback, buscher COP and MSD DIS II, HKS 272's tomei springs and retainers, peak boost BBTO4R (stg 3 wheel) kit, exedy twin disk, AEM stand alone with zetronix wideband, Nisei intercooler, AMS upper IC piping, I haven't had any of the parts installed except for minor bolt ons and a flash, i am going to be out of town for a month so i am leaving my car with a friend and he will be giving it to Tuning technology and leaving it in there hands. I am wondering what i should be expecting when i come back, it will be a totally changed car, any clue to what i should expect?? How long will my stock bottom end last? I would love to hit 10's wuith this turbo, Peakboost got 130 MPH trap speeds with the same kit so, it should be possible. What else should i get to get to that 10 second timeslip?????

 

Race gas and one heavy foot! :P
btw, how did you fix the whiney tranny? It is the same as howling? My first gear "howls" pretty loud :}

 

have the tune shop put the shatter plate on while they are doing the work

 

what, no methanol?
let me know when u take it to qualcomm to race

 

Make sure you monitor EGT/AF/OP/FP. Keep a close eye on your fluids and change them often.Also what injectors will you be running?

 

To fix my tranny i put in a newer 04 tranny and trans case, My first gear is still loud but , my old tranny was reall clunky and wouldn't go into second above 7500 rpm's, The evo howl was more along the lines of evo holy crap is this safe to drive, i did everything i could think of to try and make it shift right, new shifter, bushings, engine mounts, went to change the fluid and looked like liquid aluminum. but all is well now, i thought it was normal till i compared it to my friends evo. Now as for installing a shatter plate, what is that? and what am i looking at price wise. I was thinking of running 1000 cc injectors, give them some room to mess with the tuning, i will have to wait and see what tuning tech is going to suggest. I will definatley post my times dyno numbers and let the locals know when i go to qualcom. I know alot of people run the GT35 and this turbo is a little bit bigger, i just needed to be differant can't wait to see what it gets me.

 

He meant the stainless steel scattershield so that you don't lose your legs and engine if your tranny explodes.
I didn't see an upgraded fuel pump on your list... don't want to forget that.

 

Experience, broken parts, roll cage, tools, and time. Or a mechanic and pocket book. But then again, I just drive a 12 sec car.

 

Definatley expecting broken parts and have a scatter sheild already not on yet but definatley took it into account. Walbro 255 fuel pump already and i am working on a roll cage, any one have any ideas on a good one that isn't a total pain in the *** to get in and out of the car? Oh and any of you GT35 guys out there , what should i expect with lag. Is is going ot drive me insane or what? Oh and is a throttle body and intake manifold porting worth getting? and if i do get it what kind of gains should i expect?

 

If you put in a 10 point roll cage it will be a pita to get in and out but you could use swing out door bars (I think they are still good to a 8.5 second pass with swingouts). I dont mind jumping over the bars to get in though... its up to you.

You could also stick with a roll bar instead. As long as you dont modify the floor or firewall you can run that until a 9.99 or 135mph.

I would not buy a prebent cage if you want a 10 point. I would bring it to a chassis company and have them make one and weld it in. You also need to decide between chromalloy or mild steel... price vs weight. And you need to decide between swingouts or not. You need to decide if you want it to go through the dash or in front of it (For the a-pillar bars). I like through the dash alot better because the cage takes less space and looks better in my opinion but you will most likely lose some of the heater/ac functionality.

Also keep in mind you need more than a cage and a scatter shield to run a 10. You also need a fire jacket, driveshaft loop, a window net if you have a cage, if you have aftermarket seats they will need to be bolted to the cage as well. You also need 5 or 6 point belts.

I still have the stock throttle body with a magnus intake manifold... it hurts the idle but other than that it is good. Definately seemed to help hold the power but I never dynoed the car.

The Whinebro pump may start to starve the car out at high boost. You will need relatively large injectors and sooner or later either another pump or a bigger one. When you do this you will also most likely need to redo the fuel feed lines at least.

The lag will be fine.

 

I recommend limiting your revs to save your bottom end. The rod bolts are the weak link & continual revs in excess of 8,500 will be pushing the limit.

Yeah, there are going to be some people who saying "I take my stock bottom end past 9k", however, look @ all the post with failed / spun bearings & a majority of them have over revved their engines.

Shift @ ~8k even though the engine still wants to pull higher & your engine should last a lot longer

my 0.02 cents.

Enjoy the new beast & thanks for the work in iraq

 

Power isnt want kills the car, rev's do.

 

With a T-67 he is making more than enough power to completely grenade the bottom end. The Revs will also destroy it. Sorry if everyone thinks our motors are that tough in thier stock form but they aint.

Otherwise why do you think all these people dont crank thier boost past 35psi with the stock bottom end? There are plenty of people running GT35Rs but they dont feel like pushing the envelope... most only run 30 or so. I honestly dont see the stock motor taking 40psi even if you shift at 7k.

 

Thanks for the help guys i will let you know more when the car is put back together, post some numbers and try to get into the track and get kicked off for being too fast. I am probably going to cryo my tranny, has any one done this? and is it worth it?

 

What do you mean Cryo your tranny?? The transmission or all the gears inside it? By treating the outside of the transmission you would do absolutely nothing at all.