What, that engine can hold 21 psi. Just make sure the correct amount of fuel is added.

 

Something I read in another thread that was stated by another member is that the 2g DSM pocket logger software is "alleged" to work on the EVO.

Before anyone turns up the boost, you should make your first investment in mods to be a data logger, unless you live near an AWD dyno and or have a WB02 on the car.

Anything less is tuning "literally" in the dark!!! I know this is true from personal experience on my DSM... it was a night and day difference when it came to tuning!

 

Pocketlogger works great on the Evo, I own one and it logs as fast as the OBD II system will support.

 

Then this information should be made a sticky somewhere as a recomended FIRST mod!!!

 

Guys, I really think it would be dangerous to tune by merely a knock sensor. They cannot be completely trusted. Who says that the Evolution ECU even interprets the knock signal the same as a 2G, 1G, etc. to give you a similar knocksum? Many tuners don't pay very much heed to the knock sensor. They've seen many cars that will ping away and the knock sensor reads nothing and vice versa. You can't beat a wideband and EGT. If you are going to invest in a great bit of insurance for your shiny new $30k pocket rocket, get a $1k wideband. It will save you money and yield you improved power over guessing or tuning by the knock sensor. The point of diminishing returns on boost pressure (power wise) is not right before the ECU decides to pull timing necessarily. It takes a dyno to tell you that. You can get a decent air pressure sensor (or two) and install them right out of the turbo and right before the throttle body.
BTW, if you add exhaust, you will improve the airflow of the motor and thus you will encounter fuel cut at a lower boost pressure.
The 16G will also be working harder to support the same boost pressure.
Also, if the new 16G is anything like the others, it isn't going to be very useful at 25 psi. A few tuners have gained good results with holding 19 to redline.

Mark
www.Quantum-Racing.com

 

I completely agree with you, but you also have to realize that a datalogger is a step in the right direction for many of the guys that are reading this forum and have no idea about what to do when it comes to tuning... which is why a datalogger should be every EVO owners very first mod!!

Between you and I and the others that know about tuning, this is a topic that is on par... but for the new guys, this discussion will only confuse them on wheather or not to buy a datalogger. So the answer stands... DATALOGGER should be the very first mod.

The EGT I can take a pass on, but having a WB02 and a datalogger is the next best thing to owning your own AWD dyno.

You can get WB02s for well under $500, from a few different companies... I wouldn't spend the $1K on an FJO.

The DIY wideband comes out under $500 and the HKS is about $600 off the top of my head.

 

EGTs can be very misleading. And to even be somewhat effective, the probe needs to be before the exhaust turbine. If it is before the exhaust turbine, there is always the possibility that it will break off and damage the turbine.

Tuning by knock has always worked very well for DSM owners. And so far every common DSM mod seems to be working quite well on the Evo.

 

Which is exactly my point that a datalogger will be plenty for most of these guys with modded EVOs.

Although it would be ideal to have a datalogger and WB02, the logger needs to come first and later down the line if finer tuning is needed, then get the WB02/and or go to an AWD dyno.

I can't emphasize enough, how important a datalogger is for the EVO guys!!

 

OK, here is the deal.... My data logger does not read off knock becasue I think the OBDII does not output knock sums. When I say i'm getting knock or avoiding knock i'm determining this by heavy drops in timing and points where timing falls and does not climb back up...... when you see timing drop and stay down below 10 degrees you have knock and a good amount, if you see timing drop below 8 degrees then gradually pull up this mean the timing jsut dropped becasue of normal means of boost kicking in, then the ECU is adjsuting for it and correcting the mixture.

 

I have mine boosted to 19psi all the way to redline using the greddy profec e-01 boost controller. I have an aftermarket air filter to increase my air intake, and a aftermarket BOV. I have experienced no problems so far. The greddy e-manage will be here later this week to tune the air/fuel setting. Also, i ordered a new fuel pump to increase fuel flow. 19psi to redline has no probkems

 

Could you get pictures of your BOV? I want to see how you installed it.

 

Although the boost setting is nearly stock and you have very few mods, how do you know there are no problems???

Have you put your car on a dyno?

Do you have a datalogger?

Do you have a WB02?

Do you have an EGT (as crude as it may be)?

This is my whole point of a datalogger being the first mod as there is no REAL way to tell without HARD FACTS/DATA what is going on with your car... in other words you're just guessing things are ok!

 

that greddy boost controller is suppose to datalog....

 

yeah the profec e-01 has a data logger... Also, anyone who plans on running an automatic boost controller, it wont work. Because the boost differentiates through various RPM's the automatic boost controller wont be able to "learn" your settings. So manual is the only way to go. Yeah im on spring break right now so i dont have pics of the BOV but i can have them by next tuesday. It's actually pretty simple, just do everything backwards from the 2nd gen eclipse. it have the top facing downward, and i believe on the 2nd gen eclipses the top faced upward??? idk i could be wrong. But anyways, pics up tuesday. Thanks.

 

Team, just looking at your sig, greddy has an exhaust out for this car already?