cams and head gaskets
cams and head gaskets
i did search but didnt really find the exact information i'm looking for....
i'm about to have my cams installed and according to the search i did, most people recommend replacing the head gasket also... should i get an new oem head gasket from mitsu or an aftermarket one like cometic? are new cam gears required too? forgive my newbiness..
i'm about to have my cams installed and according to the search i did, most people recommend replacing the head gasket also... should i get an new oem head gasket from mitsu or an aftermarket one like cometic? are new cam gears required too? forgive my newbiness..
If your in the market to make more power I would suggest a Power Enterprise HG. They are the highest quality aside from Tomei. Cometic aren't as good as quality standards are concerned. If you want to budget then you can't go wrong with OEM. This all of course depends on your budget, power you plan to make, and overall upgrades in the future. Post up some results when you get everything installed. Are you installing ARP hardware as well?
Originally Posted by Turbine
If your in the market to make more power I would suggest a Power Enterprise HG. They are the highest quality aside from Tomei. Cometic aren't as good as quality standards are concerned. If you want to budget then you can't go wrong with OEM. This all of course depends on your budget, power you plan to make, and overall upgrades in the future. Post up some results when you get everything installed. Are you installing ARP hardware as well?
so you are pulling your entire head to do the cams?!?! if you are, then i'd suggest installing ARP headstuds since you'll be in there anyways...i just don't know why you'd pull the head to do cams...
cam gears are not "needed" with the stock turbo assuming you have a tune of some sort, cam gears CAN be used if you feel you need that extra level of adjustment, but for a lightly modded car, i feel, are a waste of $$$.
cam gears are not "needed" with the stock turbo assuming you have a tune of some sort, cam gears CAN be used if you feel you need that extra level of adjustment, but for a lightly modded car, i feel, are a waste of $$$.
my buddy recommends replacing the head gasket as an insurance since i'll do cams anyway then why not take some more time to do the HG also... he blew his HG maybe thats why he recommends it...? what cause the HG to fail? i dont think he pulled the head while he got his cams installed... i just dont wanna blow mine....
i haven't heard of blown head gaskets being an issue w/ Evo's...sounds like a one off to me, and i researched the hell out of cams and any issues that could arise... or are you talking about "lifting the head"? that has been an issue on a few Evo's but i believe they were running high boost, high rpms, high heat and in some cases improperly torqued head bolts.
what milage are you at? if you're around 60k, then go for it and do the timing belt too but as i said before, if you're only lightly modded that money could be spent elsewhere... but thats just me. how much is piece of mind worth?
btw, which cams?
what milage are you at? if you're around 60k, then go for it and do the timing belt too but as i said before, if you're only lightly modded that money could be spent elsewhere... but thats just me. how much is piece of mind worth?
btw, which cams?
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FQ340, just doing cams doesn't mean doing the HG is easy. You would be pulling the entire head if you do the HG, but cams don't require that. Do the cams and replace the head studs using one-at-a-time method, and leave the HG as is, especially if you don't even use your Evo (racing).
Originally Posted by Evo_SpeedKing
i haven't heard of blown head gaskets being an issue w/ Evo's...sounds like a one off to me, and i researched the hell out of cams and any issues that could arise... or are you talking about "lifting the head"? that has been an issue on a few Evo's but i believe they were running high boost, high rpms, high heat and in some cases improperly torqued head bolts.
what milage are you at? if you're around 60k, then go for it and do the timing belt too but as i said before, if you're only lightly modded that money could be spent elsewhere... but thats just me. how much is piece of mind worth?
btw, which cams?
what milage are you at? if you're around 60k, then go for it and do the timing belt too but as i said before, if you're only lightly modded that money could be spent elsewhere... but thats just me. how much is piece of mind worth?
btw, which cams?
Originally Posted by Warrtalon
FQ340, just doing cams doesn't mean doing the HG is easy. You would be pulling the entire head if you do the HG, but cams don't require that. Do the cams and replace the head studs using one-at-a-time method, and leave the HG as is, especially if you don't even use your Evo (racing).
In reality the stock headgasket is sealed/glued to the head and block pretty darn good. I've heard some people have needed to tap the head with a hammer to get it to break loose.
The call on head studs is about 50/50. Some (like me) say the head studs are a complete waste of time and money for a sub 400WHP tuned evo. Others swear you need them if you go as far as cams. I say if its not broke dont' fix it. As long as you aren't detonating the crap out of your car and not running insane boost there should be no need for head studs.
I've had my cams in for a good long while. I'm at 320WHPpump/350WHPrace gas and haven't had any problem with the stock equipment and I beat the crap out of this car.
Personally I would say just install the cams and call it a day.
The call on head studs is about 50/50. Some (like me) say the head studs are a complete waste of time and money for a sub 400WHP tuned evo. Others swear you need them if you go as far as cams. I say if its not broke dont' fix it. As long as you aren't detonating the crap out of your car and not running insane boost there should be no need for head studs.
I've had my cams in for a good long while. I'm at 320WHPpump/350WHPrace gas and haven't had any problem with the stock equipment and I beat the crap out of this car.
Personally I would say just install the cams and call it a day.
The stock head bolts failed on me, or were not set properly from the factory, or a combination of the two. I do run the car hard. I pull the line off the WGA and run maximum boost, with a Gus Modded BOV, so no relief there. Ran this way all last season, 12:1 or so on race, 11:1 on pump, with various levels of timing. Never knocks appreciably, eve on the street (my CEL is set to come on at 2 degrees of knock retard). I had no trouble at all. In the middle of the winter, when I take it easy, the HG started to slowly leak at the tranny end. Then it started to push coolant, and I soon got off my lazy *** and ordered studs. Eventually in the middle of a nice 4 wheel drift it finally gave up the ghost. When I pulled the head, the two bolts on the tranny end were finger loose.
I'm not sure it's worth doing the studs either way when doing cams. There is no real harm done when they fail, if they ever do (Some poeple have great luck with the stock setup). But it is a pain in the *** to get all of the oil out of the coolant system. And it swells the seals on the radiator cap and overflow. Hopefully the water pump seal isn't affected, now that I think about it. Plus overheating can warp the head.
On the other hand, letting the stockers fail sounds too risky. The studs are like 80 bucks, and it's only another 20 minutes work to pull the head if the cam gears are off (assuming "RRE method" for cam swap) or if the tbelt is being done. As long as you follow some fundamental guidelines, you'll be fine with the ARP studs.
You make the call.
When I pulled the head, the two bolts on the tranny end were finger loose. I'm not sure it's worth doing the studs either way when doing cams. There is no real harm done when they fail, if they ever do (Some poeple have great luck with the stock setup). But it is a pain in the *** to get all of the oil out of the coolant system. And it swells the seals on the radiator cap and overflow. Hopefully the water pump seal isn't affected, now that I think about it. Plus overheating can warp the head.
On the other hand, letting the stockers fail sounds too risky. The studs are like 80 bucks, and it's only another 20 minutes work to pull the head if the cam gears are off (assuming "RRE method" for cam swap) or if the tbelt is being done. As long as you follow some fundamental guidelines, you'll be fine with the ARP studs.
You make the call.
I have nearly 40K miles and I'm doing cams (264/272) as well. Does it make since to do the timing belt, balancer belt and water pump now? Also, are the OEM belts fine for mild modifications such as TBE and cams?
Just letting you guys in on my plans coming up. Im at 53k got most everything on order now
-Gates Timing Belt
-Gates Balance Belt
-OEM Timing and Balance Belt tensioners
-OEM Timing Belt Tensioner Pulley
-OEM Timing Belt Idler Pulley
-OEM Waterpump
-OEM Headgasket
-272's cams
-Valve springs and retainers
-ARP Headstuds
-Gates Timing Belt
-Gates Balance Belt
-OEM Timing and Balance Belt tensioners
-OEM Timing Belt Tensioner Pulley
-OEM Timing Belt Idler Pulley
-OEM Waterpump
-OEM Headgasket
-272's cams
-Valve springs and retainers
-ARP Headstuds