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Old Jun 13, 2006 | 03:27 PM
  #16  
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From: Coral Springs, FL
i got the package in my sig. with a 255 fuel pump and a 90shot...kinda scared to use it.. ive only filled up the bottle once... everyday i hear how good and safe it could be and also how bad it is for my car.. i got a quick road tune for the nitrous for 110oct. so basically i only spray when im on 110oct.. running a little rich to be on the safer side.. ive used it on the street only so far... im still saving up for a new clutch so i can hit up the track!
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Old Jun 13, 2006 | 10:25 PM
  #17  
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From: gulfport, MS
anyone else ever tuned the nitrous with the UTEC??
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Old Jun 14, 2006 | 06:12 AM
  #18  
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From: MA
Originally Posted by EVIL_EV0
I am a long time user of juice. There are a ton of variables that you don't learn about until you actually run the squeeze for a bit. I will list a few:

1. Its too easy to add a bigger jet. You may slap on a 50 shot and your car will love it. It may run perfect. Then you slap on a 75 shot and man oh man the car just rips and everything is in tune. Eventually you will build a false sense of security and try to add that 100 shot. This may actually work a few times but have one hickup with anything spark, fuel, knock, and WHAM!
2. The bottle is not instantly up to operating pressure. Even on 70 degree days a full bottle will need to be heated using a heater. That being said on 90 degree days the bottle may be over pressurized and you'll have to wait for it to cool down before spraying. When I say use the heater sometimes it takes 30-45 minutes to get a half full bottle up too 950PSI. In summary unless you open the bottle everytime you leave the house (and heat it) you wont be prepared for a drag race. You cannot just open the bottle on 1st ave and be ready to lay waste at 2nd ave.
3. Unless you own your own filling station and purchase a mother bottle from a gas/chem company you will probably get raped on the price you pay for nitrous. Around here I get charged $4.50/LB and a $5 hookup fee. I dropped the cash on purchased my own filling station. This dropped the price down to about $2.90/LB. Depending upon your location your prices may vary.
4. It's too easy to add a bigger shot
5. There is additional added fear that a part may fail and the motor may say goodbye. If your fuel solinoid takes a crap during a pass bad things could happen. Sure there are many safety items you can buy to prevent some issues but it is likely sooner or later something not soo good will happen. Bad things have happened to me. I actually melted a valve when I picked up a tank of bad gas. Apparently in some states they have enthanol "enhanced" fuel. This fuel was a poor choice to run with juice. I definately would recommend running race gas with laughing gas. I also had a nitrous backfire. I believe my bottle pressure wasn't quite where it needed to be (might have been cold) and when I went to spray I blew then entire intake side off the motor. The explosion was so massive it bent my throttle body blade. Motor was fine but I shat myself when it happend. I've also missed a shift and went WOT while on the juice since there was no load on the motor I didn't notice any fallout but if I had actually done a 1-2-3-2 shift and dumped the clutch there would have been pieces and parts everywhere.
6. It's too easy to add a bigger shot
7. You have to prep your car for juice. On a turbo car you WILL need to pull timing and if you are running bleeding edge boost you'll have to back it down because nitrous will cause it to creep. Prepping your car also means running the correct spark plugs and odds are your clutch will not appreciate it at all. If you are serious about keeping your motor healthy you'll have to check your plugs after each session of spraying. Reading plus is about the best way to determine how the motor is responding. In the end its very cheap power IF you run a big shot, but with all the cons that come with it it may just be BETTER to upgrade something else, get a little less power, but have it all the time.


wow, thanks for the input!
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Old Jun 14, 2006 | 06:55 AM
  #19  
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i sprayed a 75hp wet shot for over a year with just 3 inch exhaust, safc(the old one..lol) and a boost controller.....no engine mods.
and it was safe!
ran it with C16 though.
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Old Jun 14, 2006 | 06:57 AM
  #20  
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From: Miami
oh and colder plugs...
i think it is for every 50shot you move in the range by 2?
with my 75 shot i used to run 9's plugs.
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Old Jun 15, 2006 | 01:42 PM
  #21  
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From: gulfport, MS
what type of plugs should I get
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Old Jun 15, 2006 | 01:43 PM
  #22  
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From: Central FL
Br8es
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Old Jun 15, 2006 | 07:51 PM
  #23  
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From: houston
nitrous is nothing more than methanol on steroids. People act like nitrous is the devil on this board. Just as many bad things can happen on methanol as nitrous, yet methanol is readily accepted. Oh, and on the Utec, you can add the fuel through the injectors instead of running a wet system, just like you would with methanol injection. You just need to program a different map (s). Of course, you'll need to pull timing, run colder plugs, watch for boost spikes etc., but any good tuner will be able to help you out and set it up properly dependent upon what size shot you eventually decide to run.
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Old Jun 15, 2006 | 08:26 PM
  #24  
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From: Central FL
Nitrous is frozen oxygen with nitrogen to slow the burn.

Methanol is an alcohol which cools the intake charge, bumps octane but does not provide additional oxygen.

Way different.
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Old Jun 15, 2006 | 08:38 PM
  #25  
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From: houston
Originally Posted by TTP Engineering
Nitrous is frozen oxygen with nitrogen to slow the burn.

Methanol is an alcohol which cools the intake charge, bumps octane but does not provide additional oxygen.

Way different.
Methanol - CH3OH. Yes, it does provide oxygen. Nitrous - N2O. Yes, it provides oxygen also, just more on a weight basis compared to methanol.

Nitrous also cools the intake charge, and to a much higher degree compared to methanol. Nitrous is not frozen oxygen, frozen oxygen would be a solid. And nitrous isn't a mixture of oxygen gas and nitrogen gas just compressed, it's a different molecule altogether. And doesn't a higher octane fuel burn slower?

late edit: just to clear up a point. Methanol will increase octane rating, allowing more boost or more timing. Nitrous will not increase octane rating, it will actually increase the rate of burn. But as previously mentioned, retarding timing is a must on nitrous, just like a good tune for methanol is a must. On first reading your response, I took it that you meant nitrogen was added to nitrous to slow the burn like that was a bad thing. But after reading it again, I get the impression you don't understand what nitrous actually is.

Last edited by dubbleugly01; Jun 15, 2006 at 08:51 PM.
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Old Jun 15, 2006 | 09:38 PM
  #26  
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From: MA
Originally Posted by dubbleugly01
nitrous is nothing more than methanol on steroids. People act like nitrous is the devil on this board. Just as many bad things can happen on methanol as nitrous, yet methanol is readily accepted. Oh, and on the Utec, you can add the fuel through the injectors instead of running a wet system, just like you would with methanol injection. You just need to program a different map (s). Of course, you'll need to pull timing, run colder plugs, watch for boost spikes etc., but any good tuner will be able to help you out and set it up properly dependent upon what size shot you eventually decide to run.
this is what bothers me. plenty of people run meth/alky and just as many people blow up their engines with n2o as with meth/alky.

It would be nice to be able to tune off the bottle, and have the timing retarded / as well as the proper amount of fuel added only when spraying.
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Old Jun 15, 2006 | 11:18 PM
  #27  
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From: Mesa, AZ
Originally Posted by EVIL_EV0
I am a long time user of juice. There are a ton of variables that you don't learn about until you actually run the squeeze for a bit. I will list a few:

1. Its too easy to add a bigger jet. You may slap on a 50 shot and your car will love it. It may run perfect. Then you slap on a 75 shot and man oh man the car just rips and everything is in tune. Eventually you will build a false sense of security and try to add that 100 shot. This may actually work a few times but have one hickup with anything spark, fuel, knock, and WHAM!
2. The bottle is not instantly up to operating pressure. Even on 70 degree days a full bottle will need to be heated using a heater. That being said on 90 degree days the bottle may be over pressurized and you'll have to wait for it to cool down before spraying. When I say use the heater sometimes it takes 30-45 minutes to get a half full bottle up too 950PSI. In summary unless you open the bottle everytime you leave the house (and heat it) you wont be prepared for a drag race. You cannot just open the bottle on 1st ave and be ready to lay waste at 2nd ave.
3. Unless you own your own filling station and purchase a mother bottle from a gas/chem company you will probably get raped on the price you pay for nitrous. Around here I get charged $4.50/LB and a $5 hookup fee. I dropped the cash on purchased my own filling station. This dropped the price down to about $2.90/LB. Depending upon your location your prices may vary.
4. It's too easy to add a bigger shot
5. There is additional added fear that a part may fail and the motor may say goodbye. If your fuel solinoid takes a crap during a pass bad things could happen. Sure there are many safety items you can buy to prevent some issues but it is likely sooner or later something not soo good will happen. Bad things have happened to me. I actually melted a valve when I picked up a tank of bad gas. Apparently in some states they have enthanol "enhanced" fuel. This fuel was a poor choice to run with juice. I definately would recommend running race gas with laughing gas. I also had a nitrous backfire. I believe my bottle pressure wasn't quite where it needed to be (might have been cold) and when I went to spray I blew then entire intake side off the motor. The explosion was so massive it bent my throttle body blade. Motor was fine but I shat myself when it happend. I've also missed a shift and went WOT while on the juice since there was no load on the motor I didn't notice any fallout but if I had actually done a 1-2-3-2 shift and dumped the clutch there would have been pieces and parts everywhere.
6. It's too easy to add a bigger shot
7. You have to prep your car for juice. On a turbo car you WILL need to pull timing and if you are running bleeding edge boost you'll have to back it down because nitrous will cause it to creep. Prepping your car also means running the correct spark plugs and odds are your clutch will not appreciate it at all. If you are serious about keeping your motor healthy you'll have to check your plugs after each session of spraying. Reading plus is about the best way to determine how the motor is responding. In the end its very cheap power IF you run a big shot, but with all the cons that come with it it may just be BETTER to upgrade something else, get a little less power, but have it all the time.
First of all, great post. Second of all - #5 had me laughing like a horney horsey. "Motor was fine but I shat myself when it happend." ROFL
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Old Jun 21, 2006 | 02:06 PM
  #28  
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From: Central FL
Originally Posted by dubbleugly01
Methanol - CH3OH. Yes, it does provide oxygen. Nitrous - N2O. Yes, it provides oxygen also, just more on a weight basis compared to methanol.

Nitrous also cools the intake charge, and to a much higher degree compared to methanol. Nitrous is not frozen oxygen, frozen oxygen would be a solid. And nitrous isn't a mixture of oxygen gas and nitrogen gas just compressed, it's a different molecule altogether. And doesn't a higher octane fuel burn slower?

late edit: just to clear up a point. Methanol will increase octane rating, allowing more boost or more timing. Nitrous will not increase octane rating, it will actually increase the rate of burn. But as previously mentioned, retarding timing is a must on nitrous, just like a good tune for methanol is a must. On first reading your response, I took it that you meant nitrogen was added to nitrous to slow the burn like that was a bad thing. But after reading it again, I get the impression you don't understand what nitrous actually is.
It is understood completely. I was illustrating non-scientifically the outcome of using nitrous. Colder intake temps by about 60*F with the cooler, denser charge allowing more oxygen in the motor and upon the heating of the molecules, the release of additional oxygen into the combustion process. The use of the verbiage "frozen" was a poor choice when being read by a group of "chemists" however a laymen IMO would understand the explanation better and could relate "frozen" to "cold" and not in the terms of "liquid-gas-solid".
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Old Jun 21, 2006 | 05:23 PM
  #29  
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From: Michigan
TTP - You've run Nitromethane in the EVO? How did that work out? Are you mixing it in with Methanol for the alcohol injection system, or running it straight?

EVOlutionary
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Old Jun 21, 2006 | 05:51 PM
  #30  
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I deleted a couple of OT post that had more to do with egos than nitrous oxide. This is a warning to members and vendors to knock off the name calling, inuendo and off topic side conversations. We will issue bans without any further notice.

Speedlimit...
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