noob spark?
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Evolving Member
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 135
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noob spark plug?
I have a spark plug? What plugs should i use with these mods. And what should they be gaped to.
-05 turbo
-hard pipe kit
-neisi fmic
-dc header
-megans O2
-Gsc 272 in/264ex
-3"TBE
-680cc inj
-dyno flash
-injen intake
-21psi
The spark plug thing has alway been hard for me to figure out.
If some one could also explain or put a link up that explains would be great.
I tried seaching but its to broad.
Thanks everyone.
-05 turbo
-hard pipe kit
-neisi fmic
-dc header
-megans O2
-Gsc 272 in/264ex
-3"TBE
-680cc inj
-dyno flash
-injen intake
-21psi
The spark plug thing has alway been hard for me to figure out.
If some one could also explain or put a link up that explains would be great.
I tried seaching but its to broad.
Thanks everyone.
Last edited by unknown2; Jul 11, 2006 at 04:09 PM.
Try NGK BPR7ES, gapped to .026. There are the better Iridium plugs, if you wanna spend more. However, the BPR coppers are cheap so's you can swap them out every 5-6K.
Last edited by sparky; Jul 12, 2006 at 09:01 AM.
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 9,002
Likes: 12
From: somewhere testing various tires, brakes, and suspensions.
BPR8EIX - 0.26 to 0.27 -- $ about 40 or so. Changed every 15-20k (or 3 to 4 oil changes). EDIT: Got trigger happy - but I would go one range cooler, made my car run smoother and the old butt dyno said thank you.
Heat range (FROM NGK)
The term spark plug heat range refers to the speed with which the plug can transfer heat from the combustion chamber to the engine head. Whether the plug is to be installed in a boat, lawnmower or racecar, it has been found the optimum combustion chamber temperature for gasoline engines is between 500°C–850°C. When it is within that range it is cool enough to avoid pre-ignition and plug tip overheating (which can cause engine damage), while still hot enough to burn off combustion deposits which cause fouling.
The spark plug can help maintain the optimum combustion chamber temperature. The primary method used to do this is by altering the internal length of the core nose, in addition, the alloy compositions in the electrodes can be changed. This means you may not be able to visually tell a difference between heat ranges. When a spark plug is referred to as a “cold plug”, it is one that transfers heat rapidly from the firing tip into the engine head, which keeps the firing tip cooler. A “hot plug” has a much slower rate of heat transfer, which keeps the firing tip hotter.
An unaltered engine will run within the optimum operating range straight from the manufacturer, but if you make modifications such as a turbo, supercharger, increase compression, timing changes, use of alternate racing fuels, or sustained use of nitrous oxide, these can alter the plug tip temperature and may necessitate a colder plug. A rule of thumb is, one heat range colder per modification or one heat range colder for every 75–100hp you increase. In identical spark plug types, the difference from one full heat range to the next is the ability to remove 70°C to 100°C from the combustion chamber.
The heat range numbers used by spark plug manufacturers are not universal, by that we mean, a 10 heat range in Champion is not the same as a 10 heat range in NGK nor the same in Autolite. Some manufacturers numbering systems are opposite the other, for domestic manufacturers (Champion, Autolite, Splitfire), the higher the number, the hotter the plug. For Japanese manufacturers (NGK, Denso), the higher the number, the colder the plug.
Do not make spark plug changes at the same time as another engine modification such as injection, carburetion or timing changes as in the event of poor results, it can lead to misleading and inaccurate conclusions (an exception would be when the alternate plugs came as part of a single precalibrated upgrade kit). When making spark plug heat range changes, it is better to err on the side of too cold a plug. The worst thing that can happen from too cold a plug is a fouled spark plug, too hot a spark plug can cause severe engine damage
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinf...000&country=US
http://www.centuryperformance.com/spark.asp
http://www.enjoythedrive.com/content/?id=24197
Heat range (FROM NGK)
The term spark plug heat range refers to the speed with which the plug can transfer heat from the combustion chamber to the engine head. Whether the plug is to be installed in a boat, lawnmower or racecar, it has been found the optimum combustion chamber temperature for gasoline engines is between 500°C–850°C. When it is within that range it is cool enough to avoid pre-ignition and plug tip overheating (which can cause engine damage), while still hot enough to burn off combustion deposits which cause fouling.
The spark plug can help maintain the optimum combustion chamber temperature. The primary method used to do this is by altering the internal length of the core nose, in addition, the alloy compositions in the electrodes can be changed. This means you may not be able to visually tell a difference between heat ranges. When a spark plug is referred to as a “cold plug”, it is one that transfers heat rapidly from the firing tip into the engine head, which keeps the firing tip cooler. A “hot plug” has a much slower rate of heat transfer, which keeps the firing tip hotter.
An unaltered engine will run within the optimum operating range straight from the manufacturer, but if you make modifications such as a turbo, supercharger, increase compression, timing changes, use of alternate racing fuels, or sustained use of nitrous oxide, these can alter the plug tip temperature and may necessitate a colder plug. A rule of thumb is, one heat range colder per modification or one heat range colder for every 75–100hp you increase. In identical spark plug types, the difference from one full heat range to the next is the ability to remove 70°C to 100°C from the combustion chamber.
The heat range numbers used by spark plug manufacturers are not universal, by that we mean, a 10 heat range in Champion is not the same as a 10 heat range in NGK nor the same in Autolite. Some manufacturers numbering systems are opposite the other, for domestic manufacturers (Champion, Autolite, Splitfire), the higher the number, the hotter the plug. For Japanese manufacturers (NGK, Denso), the higher the number, the colder the plug.
Do not make spark plug changes at the same time as another engine modification such as injection, carburetion or timing changes as in the event of poor results, it can lead to misleading and inaccurate conclusions (an exception would be when the alternate plugs came as part of a single precalibrated upgrade kit). When making spark plug heat range changes, it is better to err on the side of too cold a plug. The worst thing that can happen from too cold a plug is a fouled spark plug, too hot a spark plug can cause severe engine damage
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinf...000&country=US
http://www.centuryperformance.com/spark.asp
http://www.enjoythedrive.com/content/?id=24197
Last edited by Smike; Jul 12, 2006 at 05:59 AM.
the NGK coppers work great if you dont mind changing them a bit more frequently (usually 7500-10000 miles). At $10 a set, they are hard to beat.
We've had great luck wtih the Denso Iridiums....on average we find they last in the 25k-30k range, and on most cars, tend to idle a bit better as they don't load up quite as much
We've had great luck wtih the Denso Iridiums....on average we find they last in the 25k-30k range, and on most cars, tend to idle a bit better as they don't load up quite as much
