Arizona Forced Induction 42r setup...Completed pics..
I'm interested in some real world data on how the much smaller radiator works to keep temps in the acceptable range with more than a few seconds hard use... please let us know what you find as the characteristics of the setup are explored.
Just curious, are there any braces or support brackets welded to any part of that setup to help support the sheer weight of the turbo on top of the manifold? If not, are you all worried about possible damage from the stress the weight of the turbo has? If so, where are the support brackets welded from and to? I'm curious 'bout your setup, looks amazing.
Originally Posted by CO_VR4
I'm interested in some real world data on how the much smaller radiator works to keep temps in the acceptable range with more than a few seconds hard use... please let us know what you find as the characteristics of the setup are explored.
i hope he can get the cooling issue resolved. that radiator is the size of a fart bubble & the car can't even be dynoed cuz it will overheat. studying the car at the last dyno day out there in Mesa, Reid should ditch the CRX radiator & have 1 made thicker. there is room, OR he can removed the heater condenser & replace it with a radiator almost stock size. i also mentioned to him that a low temp t-stat would help as well & get rid of the extra fan blowing hot air on radiator.
i also think all that power is going to dip the rear so much that it will cut his rear 275 tires clean off!!
i also suggest he slap that barrel h20/meth kit on at the Mesa shop on his car as well. water/meth might be the only other way to help cool "the Blackbird"...
i also think all that power is going to dip the rear so much that it will cut his rear 275 tires clean off!!
i also suggest he slap that barrel h20/meth kit on at the Mesa shop on his car as well. water/meth might be the only other way to help cool "the Blackbird"...
Originally Posted by housedj
i hope he can get the cooling issue resolved. that radiator is the size of a fart bubble & the car can't even be dynoed cuz it will overheat. studying the car at the last dyno day out there in Mesa, Reid should ditch the CRX radiator & have 1 made thicker. there is room, OR he can removed the heater condenser & replace it with a radiator almost stock size. i also mentioned to him that a low temp t-stat would help as well & get rid of the extra fan blowing hot air on radiator.
i also think all that power is going to dip the rear so much that it will cut his rear 275 tires clean off!!
i also suggest he slap that barrel h20/meth kit on at the Mesa shop on his car as well. water/meth might be the only other way to help cool "the Blackbird"...
i also think all that power is going to dip the rear so much that it will cut his rear 275 tires clean off!!
i also suggest he slap that barrel h20/meth kit on at the Mesa shop on his car as well. water/meth might be the only other way to help cool "the Blackbird"...
The radiator is the same size as the AMS cars run...its a stock duel core civic radiator. The car wouldn't heat up in Chicago, NY, etc...when its been in the low 90's the past few days the car doesn't run hot...120 deg temps and blazing sun is alittle different story...either way we had a custom size core built and sent some parts to swaintech...
I was just interested if, for example, you could drive the car in spirited use for 20-30 minutes straight and not overheat, or whether a couple minutes would push you closer to the envelope than you'd like. In other words, whether it's a primarily off throttle drive around and occasional 11 second use, or whether it would be a good canyon or mountain car as well....


