I dunno, Mike, I can't believe it, because that doesn't happen on any other FMIC with a stock turbo'd car. The stock FMIC is perfectly matched for the stock turbo, and 25-30whp is a huge jump in power. If that were the case, then people would be much, MUCH faster than they are at the track and on OTHER dynos. There are tons of people out there who made the mistake of buying an FMIC before needing it, and they get nothing out of it. Peruse the drag forum and just look at all of them for the past 3 years. FMIC'd cars do nothing extra, especially not 25-30whp extra. Also, how could this car have all the bolt-ons but no boost controller? That's one of the first and most basic bolt-ons. An Evo on the stock turbo with stock boost will by no means make huge gains like that with an FMIC - it just doesn't make sense.

You can't make claims on gains based off raising boost either. The boost can be increased without the FMIC, so any gains realized from raising the boost does not get attributed to the FMIC.

 

For once I agree with most of what WARR is saying. Alot of that stuff is unneccesary. My only contention as always with what he says is he pushes specific products. Now while they are proven to provide good results, there are other that will also do that and dont get mentioned so your advice as always comes off like a sales pitch which to me ruins the objectivity of your advice. AGAIN, most of what he posted is 100% on, I just think you have many other options out there that will also work for you.

For the record, IN MY OPINION an upgraded WGA and FMIC is pointless AT THIS STAGE.

SAFC is pointless???? Were you running one for a while? I woldnt say its pointless and neither would many others, I understand how pushing AL's product you would push him in that direction but come on man...pointless????? No way.


In closing I would say all the money you plan on spending with that stuff could be spent wiser and on other mods to achieve better results. JMO

 

i agree completely with badevo and even though he does give good advice it sounds a little like a sales pitch, as for u if u have that much money then learn to drive your car the way it is now and then do a built motor and the other necessary things, most of what u put on now will just come off later

 

1. You really do not need the actuator.

2. You will need a boost controller. A lot of people in SoCal use the Dejon Tool Boost controller. It is cheap ($50) and effective. Ofcourse there are others that you can use. The Forge Unos is what Warr/BR use.

3. I will go with HKS 272 cams. They are a really good compromise between the 264 and the 280. You will not lose a lot of bottom end/mid range with the 272 like with the 280s. Cams are a compromise, you gain at the top by losing some at the bottom. 272s work well with the stock turbo.

4. Get some cam gears to tune the cams. AEM makes good quality cams gears.

5. There are a LOT of options for a TBE. Here are my criteria for picking an exhaust:
-----Make sure the the TBE is 3 inch in diameter and does not narrow down at the cat. I made a mistake of getting a dp that narrows at the cat and had to fix it.
-----Make sure that the falanges are of thick metal and the exhaust pieces mate to each other using nuts and bolts. The slip type exhausts will eventually leak.
-----Make sure that the downpipe uses the stock sprung bolts and the stock donut where it mates to the O2 housing. Mitsu uses this system and I trust their judgement.
-----Make sure that the test pipe you use (unless you go with a HFC) is a true 3 inch test pipe. I made a mistake of getting one that said it was 3 inch but on the inside it was more like 2.5 inch.
-----If you want your car to stay quite with a test pipe, then get a perforated test pipe. The only perforated 3 inch test pipe that I know of is made by Mrgan Racing.
-----If you are concerned about loud exhausts, then you will need to get one with a resonator in the mid-pipe especially if the muffler can is small like the one I have.
-----If you care about the looks of the exhaust, then make sure that you get one that is robot welded and not human welded and is fully stainless steel to boot.

6. Get the Walbro. That is a good safety item. Hope you like the whine

7. When it comes to engine management, you have to make a choice of either going with a piggyback or a flash. I like piggybacks myself. I also like the SAFC even though I use an Xede on my car. There are several cars in SoCal putting 310-330 whp or more tuning with an SAFC. When used with the right injectors you will be able to manipulate timing and fuel with the SAFC.

8. Go with the Denso 720 injectors. This way you will have more room for growth if you make future changes.

9. Get the JDM or EVO 9 BOV. The EVO 8 came with a plastic one that can leak. You can get the EVO 9 BOV from the dealer. I got mine from no limit motorsports for $110.

10. Always go with a local tuner that you trust before you go with a faraway tuner. It is far easier to deal with a local tuner than a faraway one. I went with a tuner that was one hour away from me just in case something comes up and I have to take my car to them.

 

I had to take my boxing gloves off and actually have a down to earth, intelligent conversation with Warr and I realized that 99% of the time we were saying the same thing AND even though he has mutual interest with Buschur Racing to sell their products, he does so out of enthusiasm and not because he is a vendor on the site.

That being said.....I would say for certain that the only items you should be considering, figuring your horsepower goals and price allotment are:

3" TB exhaust of any one of the manufactureres around cat or catless, whatever you want
EcuFlash or some sort of ReFlashed ECU
Walboro 255 (wired properly for safe measure in the future, it will help)
Drop in Air Filter OR, if out of preference an intake barring the K&N Typhoon (the worst there is)
A good MBC...Hallman or Forge or Buschur. Simple...very simple


The next step in the "Evolution" (sorry guys) would be to go for a FMIC, piping, injectors, 02 housing

After that Id say ARP headstuds, a complete custom tune and a 20g turbo

Now you're getting into the big(er) time here....but for now, stick to what these guys tell you. The car will be faster than you could wish for with those other parts you mentioned and you'll be on the road to success. I wish I would have listened.

 

D'oh, put the cams and cam gears in there right after step #1

 

I am not going to get into a war with you, it makes no sense.

I am telling you, every car here that has bolted on this FMIC on a stock turbo has made at minimum 20 more WHP, it really is that simple.

And, pressure drop is a real thing, if by adding my FMIC to the car, it picks up 2 PSI, what does that say for the stock FMIC? So yes, considering the car had no boost control, you can attribute this directly to the FMIC. It is really pretty black and white.

Mike Huml

 

Put on a better flowing intercooler and the turbo isnt working as hard for the same result, therefore you get the 2psi increase. That and since its not working as hard, its not blowing as much hot air. That could account for the 20hp he is claiming...specially with no boost control, and we all know when you stick on a tbe with no MBC or anything controlling boost, its going up 2-3 psi. If he was pushin 23 psi, and it went up 2 more to 25, the extra boost + efficiency of the fmic BETTER make 20 hp lol.

All in all, I have to side with Warr on this one (Kicking myself) but his package for a stock car is pretty decent. If you dont want to go directly thru him and go with a different manufacturer or tuner, thats fine, but using his upgrade plan and buying the parts in his package is the way to go. Drop in filter, tbe, boost gauge, MBC, and learn to drive the car before you mod too heavy.

Also someone posted about upgrading the BOV to an evo9, good call there. Do that asap.