I need to replace these ASAP. Can anyone advise w/ their experience? Can't seem to find using search...

 

This just happened to my buddy... He actually had to have it drilled out, then re-tapped and then finally a new stud put in..

All of them bolts with my experience are crap

 

is the stud spinning in the block or is the nut spinning on the stud?

 

nut spinning on the stud. some of them seemed a little longer than others, maybe I pulled thme w/ over torque?

 

there are two size studs and two diff trq settings. the two big ones on the end are different.

I used these to get one that broke on mine...

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...seBVCookie=Yes

 

Ok, so what's after the extraction of stock studs? Do you tap to install new ones?

 

try these. next time i have my header off, i'm getting a set. (second item down)
https://www.jacksonautomachine.com/h...m?sectionId=17

 

Outstanding find! I'll definitely call Ms. Carmella first thing in the morning!

thanks!

 

no if you get the stud out, you should just put new ones in. The holes should be fine if the nuts was just spinning on the stud.

 

thanks dude!

So, you just screw in the new ones...

 

Sounds like the nuts are stripped, but it's hard to be positive without seeing first hand. The studs that seem longer than others probably backed out some from a seized nut on them then breaking loose shortly after and coming off like normal.

To remove and install, I use two regular nuts (not the stock self locking type) jammed together so that I can turn the stud in and out with the appropriate side nut.

 

if the stud is not moving when you turn the nut, the threads in the block are fine. Just remove the existing stud and get a new one and install it.

if the stud is spinning in the block the threads will need to be tapped.

 

To remove and install, I use two regular nuts (not the stock self locking type) jammed together so that I can turn the stud in and out with the appropriate side nut.[/QUOTE]





any illustration to this method?

 

Not really. It's pretty straight forward. Thread two nuts on the stud at the same time, put a wrench on the inward one as if to loosen it and another wrench on the outter one tightening it. You end up jamming them against one another and then they won't spin off the stud (too easily that is). Remove the stud by putting a wrench on the inner nut (closest to head) and turn counter-clockwise.

 

the torque spec on those nuts are fairly low so it's easy to over tighten and pull the threads out in the head- in which case you'll be installing helicoils soon. So be careful of that. On my DSM I've found that if you don't use a lock nut, like the factory does, on the studs that they will loosen much sooner and give you an exhaust leak.