BR Stage 3 shortblock, here are the specs and build process:

Blocks are hot tanked and if needed rust stripped
Blocks are then checked for square and inspected

Bored and honed. If the block is very good or new it will only get honed for the proper clearance and kept at standard bore.

Block is then re-hot tanked and pressure cleaned.

J&E pistons, custom designed with coated skirts.
No balance shafts.
Completely balanced rotating assembly
We use OEM Mitsubishi main bearings and thrust.
We use a special rod bearing.
Rods are your choice of Eagle, Crower or aluminum.
Crankshaft whether it is a 2 liter or 2.3 is OEM Mitsubishi unless you want to pay extra for an aftermarket forged crank, that adds $150 to the price of the build.

I then assemble the engines.

The engine in my car is the same as Al's and what was in our black car when it ran 8.95 at 164 mph.

Here are the options used:

Standard bore
Mitsubishi 2 liter crank
Crower rods

We pulled the engine out of the black car after the shootout this year to look it over. Everything was perfect which is actually amazing with the abuse it went through. We wanted to try something new on the engine. I built an aluminum rod engine for the car, we've run it a few times since then and seen no change.

 

Don't want to set up a shop/branch in Australia do you Dave???
Evo 8 onwards are only just starting to kick off here as they were the first ones to be locally delivered, same as you guys....growing market and all..

 

Hi Dave,
What revs do you go through on each gear with the RS on the 2.0?

 

great info on the block build dave.....

what are the advantages of running the aluminum rod?

 

Less reciprocating mass?

 

+100000Intresting to know.Shep also used aluminum rods.

 

My RS we shift at 8,000 rpm 1-3 and then it crosses the finish line at 9,000 rpm in 4th.

Aluminum rods are less rotating weight, we have not seen any performance advantage with them.

 

congrats

 

Dave,

What were intake temps at the beginning and end of the run if you mind me asking?

 

OT Are most of the 35R drag folks running carbon/3 disc clutches? How are they holding up to multipule runs vs a good 2 disc non carbon ?

 

A previous post said the triple disc was getting 20-25 passes out of it on the black car who knows about the RS.

 

Starting air temp was 79 degrees, end of the run was 102 degrees.

The triple disc clutches last a long time on a GT35R equipped car. On the black car running 8.9's it is good for around 20 passes and then has to be sent in for a rebuild.

 

My non-carbon twin (cusco/exedy style) lasted for 3 years, 2 years of that with the GT-35R making recockulouse power.... I upgraded to the 3 disk for low cost by just replacing the clutch disks and idler disks since the flywheel, and pressure plate are identical.

Keith

 

Congrats David! Yet again...you have proved to be the best!

BTW, I hope to be taking my car down to you one of these days....sooner than later!

 

Noooo Dave.. your at the track when ur supposed to be builded me that GT35R i ordered on friday haha

Great numbers.. cant wait to get ur kit in, install it, and run my MR at the track..