The disconnect here may lie in the fact that this overhang comes from Mitsubishi on every stock turbo setup -- it's not a problem that's introduced with the FPGreen upgrade. In other words, to fix the *slight* mismatch issue that Mitsubishi didn't have any problem putting on an OE setup, Robert can do that for a few extra dollars.

 

The porting of the turbo that you are paying for isn't something done in the machining portion of the turbo. Why do you pay for it? Because I pay a full time guy $40,000+ to work for me a year, I buy the grinder to port it, the carbide bit to port it, pay his health insurance, retirement and pay him to stand there and eat those nasty shavings. The $50 is cheap, believe me.

I have three turbos here, one that is ported, one that is stock 10.5 and one that is new from FP. Non of them do a see mismatch in. I wonder if it is a hit and miss type thing?

 

Owned

 

hey dave, did you get your new shipment of the 20gLT's in yet?

 

I wouldn't recommend anyone to do their own porting. 80% of the port jobs I see from do it your selfers do an absolute horrible hack job.

 

If you check out the stock gasket as compared to the manifold and hotside you should see an overlay. It can be ported and if you are after every last bit the money paid to a porter that is familar with the work is more than worth what you would spend and do it yourself.

 

I agree, Ive seen some porting so bad on parts floating around that I think it would have been better to leave it unported.

On the other hand, when you get a turbo or something ported by FP or BR (Ive gotten both), you get a perfectly done peice of a relatively low cost ($50-65). Its worth it.

 

Well I think people on here try to define a distinct linear relationship between money out-of-pocket and whp. They dont think of things like manufacturing, machining, marketing, and everything that makes parts like these expensive. I mean tooling alone costs thousands of dollars. A perfect example of this could be Gruppe-S' dash panel. Some would argue $150 or whatever they are now is nuts for a piece of ABS whereas they might not even think of the $20-30G it cost for the dies. But anyway, thank you for bringing this core exchange to light. I know I will find a deal on a slightly used IX turbo which should bring my total under $1500 and that is a GREAT price for a NEW turbo IMO.

What I really can't wait to see are the torque numbers on a car with a stock ECU and flash. Since the car used as an example here had an EMS and boost issues I really want to see what Al can get out of this thing on 93 octane.

 

It's a known fact that horsepower gained is cheaper in the early mods, than it is when nearly everything has been done. That ultimately makes the difference between the winning time slip and the losing timeslip. It costs to squeeze that last horsepower out of an engine. As far as 50-60 $ for a port on a turbo, I can't imagine someone being willing to do it that cheaply. Stones, electricity, time, dremel cost, etc. etc. Just have it done and don't question it. Unless, of course, you don't care which timeslip you get.

 

The new batch of LT's has not come in yet CP, don't worry, I have you down for one

 

I find it humorous that there are actually people who believe you can get a better price by goading someone... What in the HELL is wrong with people!?! If you were EVER to have ANY success what so ever low-balling someone, it would be on the down low, behind the scenes, with a Coke and a smile!

Remember when you were a kid and you didn't like what your friend said, "...well that's stupid...".


...and that's how it comes off.

 

So David,

How would the exchange work if I wanted to get the turbo and then send you my IX turbo afterwards as a trade/core?

Also what would the upgrade fee be doing it that way?

Tony

 

Someone still can't kick the habit

 

I'm doomed! This was supposed to stay stock..... yea right......

 

You´re probably right. And I have the same JDM RS turbo with a ported 10.5, that you do. You´ll be giving up between 400 to 600 RPM of spool due to the higher inertia, larger mass CHRA, with inconel vs. Titanium Aluminide turbine wheel. But, if you think it´ll be better for your style of driving then you´re probably right.

I was just saying that the 20GLT is not yet, at this point in time, a proven autocross performer when compared to the TiAl 16G´s. I wasn´t really arguing that it may very well prove to be a better all around choice for your particular application.