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Drop the subframe for clutch install?

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Old Jan 3, 2007 | 03:48 PM
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Drop the subframe for clutch install?

My cousins and I recently did his clutch install on his 05 evo. The main problem we were having and the most time consuming part was trying to drop the tranny and putting it back up....it kept hitting the cross member/sub frame and we spent lots of time prying the engine and trying to get the right angle. I was wondering if it is recommended to drop the sub frame as it seems it can save lots of time with my clutch install in the coming weeks. Is there a writeup or is it a straightforward removal.

We have access to a lift and air tools.
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Old Jan 3, 2007 | 03:51 PM
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Ive always wanted to do it cause it would clear up a ton of space but ive always just done it with the subframe on. I got around it by attaching the tranny to a chain suspended from an engine lift and just floated it up and in.
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Old Jan 3, 2007 | 04:27 PM
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Did you remove the back/bottom motor mount? If so, it should be fairly easy to snake the tranny out. I say "fairly" because it's still the toughest clutch I've ever done on my back, by myself. But I can't see how dropping the subframe could be any quicker.
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Old Jan 3, 2007 | 04:33 PM
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There is even less clearance on the 6sp. It was comical how difficult the 6sp is to get past the subframe.

The trick is to move the engine forward a bit.
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Old Jan 3, 2007 | 04:37 PM
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Old Jan 3, 2007 | 04:41 PM
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Yeah, actually, my local shop hated doing my trans until they realized they could just drop the subframe. Once they figured that out, it became a breeze for them, although it does add some extra steps that take time. However, the extra time helped save more than it added, so it was a net gain in total time spent while being much easier.

There is one much easier way to do it all (maybe more than one, but one I know of specifically) that cuts it down to 2 hours from beginning to end without removing the subframe. I haven't done it myself, so no details, but one of my sponsors does it.
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Old Jan 3, 2007 | 04:42 PM
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Originally Posted by TTP Engineering
There is even less clearance on the 6sp. It was comical how difficult the 6sp is to get past the subframe.

The trick is to move the engine forward a bit.
i know aht you mean! what a PITA! i bet dropping the subframe would make it a ton easier for the 6-speed! i used an engine lift with ratchet staps holding the trans so you can ratchet it to the angles you need and had some freinds pull the engine toward the front of the car with the rad/fan removes for additional clearance.
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Old Jan 3, 2007 | 04:43 PM
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i predict dropping the subframe could cut atleast 3-4 hours from my clutch job. We were prying alot and it keeps hitting in different areas. Does anybody have a guide to drop the subframe
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Old Jan 3, 2007 | 04:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Warrtalon
There is one much easier way to do it all (maybe more than one, but one I know of specifically) that cuts it down to 2 hours from beginning to end without removing the subframe. I haven't done it myself, so no details, but one of my sponsors does it.
c'mon warr! you gonna leave us hangin like that! please enlighten us!
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Old Jan 3, 2007 | 04:45 PM
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also, if you drop the crossmember don't you have to drop the steering rack that's attached? which requires unbolting tie rod ends which means having an alignment when finished. right?
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Old Jan 3, 2007 | 04:56 PM
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Ha, it includes removing all 4 motor mounts and dropping down the whole motor.
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Old Jan 3, 2007 | 05:00 PM
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Just yank the f**ker out of there.
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Old Jan 3, 2007 | 05:03 PM
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Originally Posted by TTP Engineering
Ha, it includes removing all 4 motor mounts and dropping down the whole motor.
that's how CBRD does it for a 6-speed. it's scary seeing your whole engine sitting on a jack for support though!
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Old Jan 3, 2007 | 05:03 PM
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Originally Posted by hondafan
also, if you drop the crossmember don't you have to drop the steering rack that's attached? which requires unbolting tie rod ends which means having an alignment when finished. right?
No, it can be done without doing all that and without affecting the alignment.

As for the quickest method, like I said, I haven't done it myself, so I can't speak with detail. They have just figured out a great method and do it without touching the subframe and without fighting the clearances.
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Old Jan 3, 2007 | 05:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Spec'd
Just yank the f**ker out of there.
problem with that is when you go to put it back in! you can jack that pressure plate ring up on the way out, but not on the way back in!
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