could the "Death Whine" NOT bet the transfer case?
could the "Death Whine" NOT bet the transfer case?
Whats up folks,
So, the infamous "Death Whine" started yesterday AM on the way to work. I took the day off today and drained the xfer case. No chunks in the fluid, but lots fine metal on the drain plug (groove was filled and about a 1/8 inch mound on top of that, refilled with diaqueen, drove around the block and drained the fluid again, no chunks but more fillings, not as much as the first drain but the groove was filled, but I only drove about two miles. Re filled again with diaqueen.
Now the question, has anyone else thought they had the death whine, that turned out to be something else? and if so what was it?
It seems to be at it's worse between 60 and 80 light load or off throttle, does not go away if I put the car in neutral and coast, in fact it seems louder (propably cause the other drive train and engine noise dies off).
So, the infamous "Death Whine" started yesterday AM on the way to work. I took the day off today and drained the xfer case. No chunks in the fluid, but lots fine metal on the drain plug (groove was filled and about a 1/8 inch mound on top of that, refilled with diaqueen, drove around the block and drained the fluid again, no chunks but more fillings, not as much as the first drain but the groove was filled, but I only drove about two miles. Re filled again with diaqueen.
Now the question, has anyone else thought they had the death whine, that turned out to be something else? and if so what was it?
It seems to be at it's worse between 60 and 80 light load or off throttle, does not go away if I put the car in neutral and coast, in fact it seems louder (propably cause the other drive train and engine noise dies off).
Usually the death whine is speed based so if it gets louder from 60-80 then I am afraid that is what you have.
Had you been launching the car lately or go a long time without a fluid change in the transfer case?
Had you been launching the car lately or go a long time without a fluid change in the transfer case?
It's commonly caused by damage to the ring gear..such as hairline cracks. The only way to fix it is to replace the damaged part(s). For some reason nobody makes just the ring gear yet. Someone needs to try to get something going with Richmond or another gear company
I know everyone says this but, no I don't launch the car. Never been to a drag strip and I have a stock clutch in the car with 30,000 miles on it.... I think I went too long on the fluid and was running the wrong stuff, I know I was running shockproof, but I don't recall if it was light, medium, or heavy.
I know everyone says this but, no I don't launch the car. Never been to a drag strip and I have a stock clutch in the car with 30,000 miles on it.... I think I went too long on the fluid and was running the wrong stuff, I know I was running shockproof, but I don't recall if it was light, medium, or heavy.
Originally Posted by srtfourplay
damn. yea i defanilty have that. any ways to fix it or quiet it?
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Well thanks for the feedback, I already planned on ordering a new tc with helical lsd in the AM, but just wanted to see if anyone else had thought they had it when it turned out to be something else....
Screw the transfer case in our cars seriuosly. I am about to be on my uh,
lets see, stock (went out at 30k),replacement out 1k later (bad shim),replacment - then rebuilt (tre w/lsd) - 70k its on its way out now.
This will be the second one I have had to purchase - my wallet hurts.
There's a little more to the story but I don't want to turn this thread into a ***** fest about mitsubishi service techs.
lets see, stock (went out at 30k),replacement out 1k later (bad shim),replacment - then rebuilt (tre w/lsd) - 70k its on its way out now.
This will be the second one I have had to purchase - my wallet hurts.
There's a little more to the story but I don't want to turn this thread into a ***** fest about mitsubishi service techs.
The only thing you can do is buy another transfer case, and have the new ring and pinion cryogenically treated before usage (to strengthen the metal). Also have the transfer case shimmed properly, the OEM tolerances are the best for high horsepower use.



