spark plugs
Thread Starter
Evolving Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 212
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From: Dirty Jersey
would anything happen if i use these plugs n im not making that much power? right now im still on stock turbo and straight pump gas
Local Advanced/Pepboy/O'Riley's/Autozones sell them for under $2/peice.
You could use BPR7ES or BR7ES for stock power level and BPR8ES or BR8ES if you make 50HP or more.
You could use BPR7ES or BR7ES for stock power level and BPR8ES or BR8ES if you make 50HP or more.
no no no no. go with the BR7ES not the pertruding tip or the 8's. no need. do what i said and u will be happy.
But the good news is that I don't see/log any difference between the protruding (BPR) and non-protruding (BR) plugs on my car (about maxed on on stock turbo+Methanol).
Gapping seems to be more important on my car.
Then again no car is really exactly alike.
Thread Starter
Evolving Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 212
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From: Dirty Jersey
i would actually recommend started with a larger gap. try .032 first, then gap down from there if you run into mis-fires.
You want to run the largest gap possible to properly expose the spark to the mixture. If you run too big, the spark with actually be blown out, causing misfires, if you run too small, the firing end temp increases, thus does the cylinder temps/pressures. Rule of thumb is to start larger and work your way down until you no longer have misfires. Trust me on this. All engines are different, the gap requirements will change from engine to engine, setup to setup.
Heat range will effect a lot as well, the colder the heat range, the more fouling becomes a problem, make sure your set-up warrants a colder heat range plug. Look at my original post on page one for refference.
CJ
CJ
You want to run the largest gap possible to properly expose the spark to the mixture. If you run too big, the spark with actually be blown out, causing misfires, if you run too small, the firing end temp increases, thus does the cylinder temps/pressures. Rule of thumb is to start larger and work your way down until you no longer have misfires. Trust me on this. All engines are different, the gap requirements will change from engine to engine, setup to setup.
Heat range will effect a lot as well, the colder the heat range, the more fouling becomes a problem, make sure your set-up warrants a colder heat range plug. Look at my original post on page one for refference.
CJ
CJ
Thread Starter
Evolving Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 212
Likes: 0
From: Dirty Jersey
i would actually recommend started with a larger gap. try .032 first, then gap down from there if you run into mis-fires.
You want to run the largest gap possible to properly expose the spark to the mixture. If you run too big, the spark with actually be blown out, causing misfires, if you run too small, the firing end temp increases, thus does the cylinder temps/pressures. Rule of thumb is to start larger and work your way down until you no longer have misfires. Trust me on this. All engines are different, the gap requirements will change from engine to engine, setup to setup.
Heat range will effect a lot as well, the colder the heat range, the more fouling becomes a problem, make sure your set-up warrants a colder heat range plug. Look at my original post on page one for refference.
CJ
CJ
You want to run the largest gap possible to properly expose the spark to the mixture. If you run too big, the spark with actually be blown out, causing misfires, if you run too small, the firing end temp increases, thus does the cylinder temps/pressures. Rule of thumb is to start larger and work your way down until you no longer have misfires. Trust me on this. All engines are different, the gap requirements will change from engine to engine, setup to setup.
Heat range will effect a lot as well, the colder the heat range, the more fouling becomes a problem, make sure your set-up warrants a colder heat range plug. Look at my original post on page one for refference.
CJ
CJ