Rod Bolts-Upgrade or not to Upgrage?
bump for street tuned mottorsports im running a 3528r on a stock bottom end and and my motor still runns like a champ but like emery said i've hit 9k a couple of times and she is still performing like a monster
I have an AMS 50 trim kit with meth injection, GSC S1 cams and all supporting mods. Im planning to make 450+ to the wheels. My tuner recommended that I upgrade the rod bolts. From what I could find it wouldnt hurt for me to do it but its not necessary if im not reving beyond the the stock rev limit.
I dont plan on going beyond the stock limit so am I safe to pass on spending the extra cash to just replace the bolts? If Buschur or AMS can chime in that would be great!
I dont plan on going beyond the stock limit so am I safe to pass on spending the extra cash to just replace the bolts? If Buschur or AMS can chime in that would be great!
I know Lucas is about burnt out on my car. 
We cant go to PIR got kicked out of there and ive got my flame suit and gear on order from summit. The roll cage is done and needs to get certified. Its unreal what you have to do to run 9s
Yes, upgrade them. The stock rod bolts are weak link in stock 4g63s. Upgrade you bearings also. Stronger aftermarket bearings are also cheap.
Cosworth High Performance thrust bearing set. $15
-Made to handle all the power you can throw at them.
Cosworth High Performance main bearing set. $65
Cosworth High Performance rod bearing set. $45
---Tested to over 1,000 horsepower at the flywheel.
---The stock bearings are known to be weak and can cause total engine failure on much higher boost and torque levels with even the stock turbo.
Cosworth High Performance thrust bearing set. $15
-Made to handle all the power you can throw at them.
Cosworth High Performance main bearing set. $65
Cosworth High Performance rod bearing set. $45
---Tested to over 1,000 horsepower at the flywheel.
---The stock bearings are known to be weak and can cause total engine failure on much higher boost and torque levels with even the stock turbo.
That is not necessarily true. The stock bearing may be weak at 1000 hp. but for the major group of us that are runing between the 300-600hp mark, the factory bearings work plenty well enough. Keep in mind that the factory crank use select fit ONLY bearings. Be VERY concerned if someone is sell a whole set for the factory crank. The last comment about failure on a stock turbo, well if you drive too hard and do not properly take care of you engine, then yeah that can happen. I am not trying to "pick a fight" so please do not take offense to my comments. I just wanted to include my insight into this.
That is not necessarily true. The stock bearing may be weak at 1000 hp. but for the major group of us that are runing between the 300-600hp mark, the factory bearings work plenty well enough. Keep in mind that the factory crank use select fit ONLY bearings. Be VERY concerned if someone is sell a whole set for the factory crank. The last comment about failure on a stock turbo, well if you drive too hard and do not properly take care of you engine, then yeah that can happen. I am not trying to "pick a fight" so please do not take offense to my comments. I just wanted to include my insight into this.
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So... Don't get me wrong here, I am not saying that replacing the bolts is a bad idea, in fact, it seems to be cheap insurance.
My question is what is it about the increase in HP that makes the bolts fail? It would seem to me that increased force on the bolts would come from RPM. While there is additional force on the piston from the additional power, that is transmitted to the big-end on the top of the journal, and would not cause strain on the bolts.
Just trying to understand....
So Jim, you are saying that when a rod bolt fails, the outcome is a rod through the block? Did this happen to you?
Marek
My question is what is it about the increase in HP that makes the bolts fail? It would seem to me that increased force on the bolts would come from RPM. While there is additional force on the piston from the additional power, that is transmitted to the big-end on the top of the journal, and would not cause strain on the bolts.
Just trying to understand....
Marek
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That is not necessarily true. The stock bearing may be weak at 1000 hp. but for the major group of us that are runing between the 300-600hp mark, the factory bearings work plenty well enough. Keep in mind that the factory crank use select fit ONLY bearings. Be VERY concerned if someone is sell a whole set for the factory crank. The last comment about failure on a stock turbo, well if you drive too hard and do not properly take care of you engine, then yeah that can happen. I am not trying to "pick a fight" so please do not take offense to my comments. I just wanted to include my insight into this.
These bearings are actually made for the 4G63.http://www.cosworth.com/search.phpTo me these little doo dads are just cheap insurance, like head studs. You might as well throw them in there for peace of mind.
Account Disabled
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,001
Likes: 0
So... Don't get me wrong here, I am not saying that replacing the bolts is a bad idea, in fact, it seems to be cheap insurance.
My question is what is it about the increase in HP that makes the bolts fail? It would seem to me that increased force on the bolts would come from RPM. While there is additional force on the piston from the additional power, that is transmitted to the big-end on the top of the journal, and would not cause strain on the bolts.
Just trying to understand....
So Jim, you are saying that when a rod bolt fails, the outcome is a rod through the block? Did this happen to you?
Marek
My question is what is it about the increase in HP that makes the bolts fail? It would seem to me that increased force on the bolts would come from RPM. While there is additional force on the piston from the additional power, that is transmitted to the big-end on the top of the journal, and would not cause strain on the bolts.
Just trying to understand....
So Jim, you are saying that when a rod bolt fails, the outcome is a rod through the block? Did this happen to you?
Marek
The outcome CAN be a rod through the block. Im sure there is other things that can/do get damaged, depends on some factors. I have never had it happen, in fact I dont own an Evo anymore, but a friend just had his rod bolt fail and it sent the rod through the back of the block. Its a bad situation, that can be avoided by changing them.
Built your motor and then put in 35R.....
As for rev.Put in valve springs and retainers...
So any word on how much this would cost? Is it feasible and okay to do them one by one?
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