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my cam installation - halfway done!

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Old Apr 6, 2007 | 10:56 PM
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my cam installation - halfway done!

Hey guys I started installing my camshafts today (GSC 272s) and I have to say since it is my first time, what a pain! I have done alot of installations but this one is rough and may require some help. I am using the EvoMoto.com install write up and I am at the part where I need to loosen underneath the car. I got that done and stuck an allen wrench inside but I am confused at the TDC part. There is a point in the write-up where they are looking at a scale that says if your lined up or not, which I have no idea where this is. Specifically direction number 15. This is where I stopped for the night to continue tommarow. I am just making this thread to ask if anyone can give me some pointers about what to do and how to do it. I heard about bleeding the lifters if someone can tell me a bit about that, and can someone give me a backround on top dead center and what is important about it when installing camshafts.

Here is the writeup.. http://evomoto.com/tech_info.php?tPa...49edd4ab04de24
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Old Apr 6, 2007 | 11:27 PM
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Edit: I are a retards. . .

It's hard to see, you have to look at may need a flashlight. It's just down I seem to remember being able to see that from the top of the car.

Ok looked at some pictures and refreshed my memory, after you've taken the belt off you'll be able to see the top of the crank pully and it's right above that. You can kind of see it in this picture:

Last edited by Brian; Apr 6, 2007 at 11:37 PM.
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Old Apr 7, 2007 | 06:44 AM
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put the #1 cylinder on top dead center then line up the cam gears,there will be notches in the cam gears
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Old Apr 7, 2007 | 07:06 AM
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You are at top dead center (TDC) when the tick mark on the crankshaft pulley is in perfect line with the notch right above it (patch of metal with measurements on it) and the tickmarks on the camshafts are in perfect line with the markings right on the valve cover housing. This happens once after two full revolutions on the crankshaft. So if you have the pulley lined up with the marking and you do not see the cams lined up with the markings on the valve cover, rotate it one full revolution until everything is lined up.

You did get the timing belt tensioner tool right? Otherwise it will be very hard to loosen the cams from the belt. You can get a long threaded bolt but the cam tensioner tool will save you a lot of headaches. The part number for the tool is in the forums somewhere and it runs around $25.00.

I am pretty sure you can google what TDC is to get a technical definition. PM me if you want more pointers from me.

Also when you reinstall the valve cover, do not overtighten the bolts in the middle because you might crack it.

Good luck !!!

Last edited by RavenOZ; Apr 7, 2007 at 07:30 AM.
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Old Apr 7, 2007 | 07:07 AM
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Yes - the pic in 15 shows the timing marks on the Crankshaft pulley.
You want to bring the engine to top dead center on cylinder #1 before proceeding further.
Follow the instuctions in step 16. Turn the crank with the rachet until the marks on the cam gears line up
with the notches in the valve cover. See bottom pic in step 16.

Another tip: I found it easier to remove one cam gear and replace one cam at a time.
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Old Apr 7, 2007 | 07:11 AM
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I never bleed the lifters on my car when i did my cams / headstuds / I think depends how many miles you got on your car. I did install my cams when the car was at 25k now iam at 44k no prob.
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Old Apr 7, 2007 | 08:45 AM
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Originally Posted by ohthree
I got that done and stuck an allen wrench inside but I am confused at the TDC part. There is a point in the write-up where they are looking at a scale that says if your lined up or not, which I have no idea where this is.
After you put the allen wrench in that hole to hold the accesory belt tensioner open, you need to slide the accesory belt towards the passenger side a little bit... but not enought to let it fall off.
Go up top and shine a light down towards the crank between the pullies and the shock tower... you'll have to shine the light around for a minute but you'll see it. You really want two people for this so you can have them turn the crank until that mark is like in the picture... then make sure your cam timing marks are lined up like in the picture. This has got to be one if not the most important thing, so take your time!
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Old Apr 7, 2007 | 02:00 PM
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I did get the timing tool, yet where should you take off the belt after you line up the tensioner?

Last edited by ohthree; Apr 7, 2007 at 02:09 PM.
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Old Apr 7, 2007 | 03:01 PM
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bump, where do you take the belt off?
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Old Apr 7, 2007 | 03:13 PM
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You just need to push the belt out of the way so that when you look down through the top, you can see the timing marks easier.
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Old Apr 7, 2007 | 06:02 PM
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I'm still having trouble finding the timing marks. Can someone give me a picture of what wheel to take the belt off so I can look down from the top. In step 16 it telsl you to take it off the water on closest to the fender. Can anyone point that out for me?
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Old Apr 7, 2007 | 06:45 PM
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bump.

Last edited by ohthree; Apr 7, 2007 at 07:37 PM.
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Old Apr 7, 2007 | 07:37 PM
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Are the markings the yellow part?
Is the blue or the red the water pump where i am supposed to remove the belt from?
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Old Apr 7, 2007 | 07:44 PM
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Yes, the timings marks are in the yellow mark.
You should be able to see them through the wheel well too.
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Old Apr 8, 2007 | 07:19 AM
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I'd assume that you have the engine in the car and not out like the picture above. You do not have to remove the belt completely off. Are you changing the camshaft pulleys as well? If not, zip tie them to the belt like it says on the walk-through. The tensioner tool should hold the belt in place underneath so the belt should not move. Slide the belt off from the pulleys on top of the engine towards the passenger side.

The bolts that hold the pulleys to the cams are tight as hell as well. Make sure you wrap something (ie. a towel) around the cam to hold it down when you break these bolts off.
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